OlympicMtnBoy

Note the height, 27.5". I saw a review on a brit site said it was hard to do much inside cause it was so freaking squat. No personal experience though.

After the recall debacle, I sent all 9 of my Aliens back for tensile testing at the end of January when I went on vacation (non-climbing). I got em all back a couple weeks ago with nice "tensile tested" stamps on the swages and little tags that said "tensile tested by Dave Wagonner". Given my painted on ID markings, and tags on the clip-in loops, none of them seemed to have been replaced (ie: failed the test). I am once more happy with them. I haven't used the offset TCUs yet, but Aliens still have a secure place on my rack. I talked to Dave once before I mailed my cams in and he was terse but gave me the info I needed. The other guy I talked to when I called to check on the status of them after a month was very nice, found my cams, and moved them to the top of the to-do pile. I said I didn't need them back immediatly, but it seemed like they were willing to make an extra effort if I had a big trip coming up (since they'd already been there a month).

AJScott, thanks for the nifty pics, gives me some good encouragement there. The winter direct listed in the new Olympics guidebook is different from the summer route, it goes climber's right of the SE ridge and has mixed potential depending on snow conditions (according to the book). The summer route is way on the other side of the ridge. Deception looks like it could have some fun potential in the right conditions. I've never been up there before. Damnible, sounds fun if the road is open high enough. Spring cc.com party in the Olympics anyone? Maybe after this next bit of snow settles? - OMB

None o' that now Porter, it's like just a few days ago you were spraying about Smith with pretty pictures. Get back out there soon! - S

Damn, that's all we can come up with? This forum just dies every year come November. I know there's more to do in the winter and spring than that! Damnible, what are you thinking of in the Buckhorn? I was up there in fall year before last and did both buckhorn peaks, didn't look like anything vaugely steep up there would be long enough to justify the hike. I've been thinking about the Winter Direct on Washington. Anybody interested in heading up there with me this weekend or next (weather and snow providing)? Or hitting anything else?

I still love my Geko 301 with the built in barometric altimeter, but yeah, I think the screen is just about exactly the same. It'll show you bearing (the direction you want to go to get to your waypoint from where you are), and you can find your heading (the direction your headed) as well.

My guess is the weakest part would be the attachment point between the head and the shaft. Look at the clunkly looking thing Grivel had to make for their carbon fiber/wood axe: Monte Bianco It is oddly cool though, that thing is like the weight of 2 or 3 biners.

Random websurfing while taking a break from my thesis just found this. Check it out: 4.5 oz ice axe. Of course they call it a "potty trowel" on the manufacturers web site here . 128 grams of aluminum and carbon fiber for the 55cm version. Somebody order one of these things and tell me how hard it is to snap. My CAMP aluminum axe is weighing me down at 8.6 oz. ;-) Just don't bring one along if we're gonna be roped up.

Combining that snazzy gu shot packaging with your favorite beverage! Check it out: Pocket Shots! Now I can throw away my heavy metal flask and those glass bottles! "The ShotPak is a new and innovative concept in alcohol packaging. The shot is a single serving shot of alcohol in a soft portable package. When full, the ShotPak is lighter than a 50 ml airplane bottle and more convenient to carry. The ShotPak was developed to target people who are engaged in an active lifestyle and are on the go."

Ok, so I'm thinking I haven't been in the Olympics much for a while and I need to get out in the spring. We have great steep couloir routes in the Cascades like Triple Couloirs, etc. What is the closest I can come in the Olympics? How steep does the couloir in route 1A on Constance really get? How about the north side of Alphabet Ridge from Charlia Lakes? Ridge of Gargoyles? There has to be some nice spring snow/ice somewhere.

And of course, don't forget your competitor product. While it's not exactly the same (straps on the floor instead of nylon, and no hood, it still probably takes a portion of your already small market share. Nunatak Dual Arc Alpinist $500-$600, ~2 lbs, 20 degrees, and available with Epic. Not to discourage any healthy competition though of course. ;-)

Yeah, probably not something I would pony up for (although I'm generally cheap), but something I would possibly use given the right route and partner. I think the attached hood is key,and something the differentiates it from some of the other quilt style bags out there. You don't get to twist and tun as much as you would in your own bag anyways, and being able to minimize heat loss with a continuous barrier on the bottom of the bag is great. Some thread drift now, here is what I would really like to see in a new FF bag, and might actually buy (although not at the custom rate). I really want one of these: Montbell UL Down Hugger #3 (ie: ~1lb 30 degree bag), with a real neck baffle, plus zip up or drawcord closed arm holes and a foot hole similar to your rock wren, or the Exped Wallcreeper. Maybe you can incorporate the stretch stuff like montbell too, but I haven't actually tried it. Basically a super light Rock Wren with a more tapered shape and a neck baffle. I like the idea, but no one that makes that sort of bag makes it light enough, shaped well enough to take full advantage of the insulation. And I don't understand why neck draft collars get dropped in warmer sleeping bags, it seems like a big warmth improvement for a small amount of weight. I would use it for summer mountaineering and nice weather spring/fall trips where keeping the pack light (and SMALL) is important. Ok, that's enough for my rant. :-)

So sue me, I rounded it to $100 for my 5 mins of work (100/5*60=1200), it really should be $105 for 5 mins work which would make it $1260/hr.

I just want 30 meters of a Beal Joker, then I don't have to worry about all that. It's not realy that much heavier either.

Ok, so maybe it belongs in the REI appreciation thread, but I'm feelin happy so I'm sprayin (heck, maybe it belongs in spray)! So I was in the gear garage downstairs at the downtown store last week and I see a pair of OR Brooks Ranger overboots in a bin. Hmm, only $30, but there is still a pricetag with the old $135 price on it too. Oh, now I see, one of the overboots seems to be missing the closed cell foam insulation. Wait, what's that in the bin next to them, a funny shaped closed cell foam pad. The garage tag on the overboots says "Someone took these apart, put them back together if you can". Ok, lets see, use the whole one for a model, work the foam piece back in . . . 5 mins . . voila! $135 overboots for $30, plus my 5 mins of assembly. Sweet! I'm gonna have toasty feet in my Nepal Extremes this year, now I just have to get my crampons to fit.

Really nice climb and pics guys, really makes me wish I didn't have to sit at home working on my thesis for most of the this ice season.

Arachnid arch under Iron Horse/Sagitarius? might be a bit similar to the first pic, only smaller and shorter and not so high up. It's way easy with enough small cams but good practice for the sort of thing, esp for the second.

Check out www.beyondfleece.com. They do custom stuff based on your measurments. What I've seen has been good stuff, and not really that much extra $$ for it. You can customize your options too (different pockets, etc). I haven't got anything from them yet but I've been meaning too. Does anyone know any other companies who make stuff for us long torso short leg folks (35x29 or so?)?

Good you got off free, when I was up there a few weeks ago we came out and there were a whole bunch of folks with nice pink tickets on their cars, including a couple WITH sno-park passes who thought it would be a good idea to start a new row of parking in a pretty dumb spot right on the corner off the exit. I was glad I paid my $8, even if it does suck.

No, these are Russian ice fifis.

Ebay link Looks like they got the handles on sideways.

Thanks WD, if only I could convince VW that E-burg is on the way from Portland to Bozeman. Anyone else with ideas farther east near Ritzville?

Anybody on cc.com live near there? I'm heading out to find some ice with vw4ever in MT, but I'm in SEA and he's in PDX. The plan is to start driving seperately and meet up over there where our paths converge, then ditch my car somewhere. I need a relatively safe place to leave it from Thursday night through Monday. It's an 87 Subaru that was stolen earlier and thus has no stereo, so I'm not too worried about it, but I don't want it towed, or the windows smashed in. Any ideas? :-)

Hey, hey, I found a neutrino on the N. Ridge of Stuart last summer! Can I join the party?!? Am I cool yet? C'mon everyone, look at ME!

Yeah, I want a 30 meter section of one of those super skinny single ropes too.