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Everything posted by olyclimber
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Trip: Warrior Peak - 1a Date: 6/5/2016 Trip Report: Two Elderly People Fail To Climb Mountain Two elderly folk escaped the infirmary this last weekend, and stumbled up the Dungeness valley to the Warrior-Constance circe. In various stages of decomposition, both old men fought valiantly against gravity and other forces both real and imagined. A general lack of preparedness reigned, from the faded/unreadable photocopy of a topo from a printer running out of toner, and lack of vocabulary to understand terms in the route description (well the vocabulary was there once, but was forgotten or misplaced in the mind)to the most egregious error : lack of mosquito netting. With wrinkles, grey hair, palsy, and forgetfulness these wizened shells of former selves left the trail a couple of miles after the Boulder shelter and mistaking one creek for another and found a high camp up in the alpine with views toward Inner Constance and Constance Pass and Mt Fricaba. There they were hosted by a hummingbird, who hung around camp during their stay, perhaps smelling the decaying flesh, waiting for bones to pick clean. The sun set, and then it rose again. The old people got up and in no hurry packed up and scrambled through the brush back down to the trail in search of the correct creek. After the waterfall they stumbled back up hill and toward the "cirque". If that term had been fresh in their rotting minds they might have easily walked up to it, but instead they searched for a "prominent couloir", any couloir could have been it on the foreshortened slopes. The failing eyesight of the aged was not helping. After not finding any "couloir of obvious prominence" stumbling up hill for some while, they found themselves in what they remembered is known as a "cirque" by the rest of humanity. From here...what should present it's self to the bags bones but a couloir...of some clear degree of prominence. Could this be the fabled couloir? It was not known to the elderly, but they agreed to drag themselves up it in lack of a better option. At the top of the couloir it was revealed that these victims of the passing years were accidentally in the right place. Like the men, the day was not young anymore. And nor was there a desire to climb low 5.1 choss. These dinosaurs did not go silently. No...they whined and complained first. Then they made excuses. The required testicals and/or ovaries were searched for and not located. But in the end, and in the face of certain ridicule by those in the know, a whimpering retreat was made. Recaptured by the authorities and shaking with palsy, the old men returned to their underwear staining and cup drooling at the infirmary. Gear Notes: The elderly appreciate a good walking stick for the knees. Approach Notes: Head left after the waterfall (or later) and then up to the cirque : cirque sərk noun 1. GEOLOGY a half-open steep-sided hollow at the head of a valley or on a mountainside, formed by glacial erosion. from there, find the couloir of prominence.
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Hi All, As many of you know, there is an issue with our Trip Reports (well actually its the whole site) function that is not allowing you to write a TR external (such as in Word or another text editor) and paste it into a TR. Very frustrating! While we are working on the issue as much as we can, keep in mind that this site is really a volunteer resource. We make a little money, but that is just enough to pay the hosting bill. And some how, over the years, we got busy and had kids, and all sort of things that eat into our time yet are somehow equally important. So we understand you might be frustrated and so are we. If only we had more time in our days! But we will get to it, promise. Anyway for now if you're having the issue, Timmy has given me a work around you can run your TR through before pasting it into CC.com. This will allow you to copy/paste till we fix the issue! http://www.articleformatter.com/ Paste your TR in there and press "Format". This will take you to the formatted tab. Then copy your TR out of that and paste it into the TR on CC.com. Then it will actually save! Post your questions about this particular process here if you have any. We hope to have this issue resolved soon, and then this will no longer be necessary. And thanks to Timmy for sharing this work around! You da man Timmay!!!
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[TR] Liberty Cap - Southwest face 5/27/2016
olyclimber replied to mountainmatt's topic in California
Awesome! Thank you for your patience. We are working on the TR posting issue! -
[TR] Dark Peak - Dark Meat with Veggie Floss 5/31/2016
olyclimber replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
noice! -
The link above mentions Ome Daiber. That guy was a legend. I want to say I met him when I was in the boy scouts, but I can't remember clearly. If I did meet him, he was quite old at the time. FA of Liberty Ridge, etc.
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supposed to be one near the snout of the Humes too. Don't see anything. http://www.windsox.us/VISITOR/HISTORY_BUILDINGS/PLANE_CRASHES.html Humes snout
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Anyone have any interesting old plane crash locations to share? I was looking for the one on C141 Peak in the Olympics before I realized they removed the wreckage. You can see the one over by Tubal Cain mine: click here
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yeah i saw that mammut cord...way too much for me. utility cord i guess then...
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It should still be there for next time. Thanks for posting, lets everyone know what the conditions are up there! thanks!
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what are you using for lightweight rap cord, and where did you get it? Just looking for cord to pack in order to statically rap alpine routes. I guess 60m?
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Discussion, East Coast vs West Coast, climbing grades!
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Well as you can see the discussion has derailed from talking about the particular TR to a general discussion of grades. It makes more sense to keep that general discussion separate as it applies to all climbs. It is also being respectful to the folks posting the Trip Report, which at the end of the day, is the thing that makes this site the most valuable. I'm going to go ahead and pare this conversation over to the Iceclimbing forum. Thanks for your understanding.
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Hey Dave, yeah we are working on it. Can you take the discussion of grades to the Ice Climbing forum in a new topic? I'm sure there is merit to the discussion, but we'd like to keep that separate from the Trip Reports so as to not take away from any one's accomplishment. Grades can be pretty subjective as has been mentioned here...but that debate should have its own thread. Awesome possible FA guys, they are getting harder and harder to come buy in such a popular area.
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[TR] Labor Pains, N.Early Winter Spire x2 - 5/29/2016
olyclimber replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
Awesome...thanks Wayne! -
Awesome Jason! How technology has changed...I was just looking at one of my old TRs of a failed attempt to climb this route. I had to get the film developed from my old Nikon F4! Beautiful images.
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[TR] The South Brother - South Couloir 5/30/2016
olyclimber replied to olyclimber's topic in Olympic Peninsula
And doing the Murph no less, with one hand tied behind his back (well, in a cast). thanks joining us Captain Safety. -
PM sent!
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Trip: The South Brother - South Couloir Date: 5/30/2016 Trip Report: Our summer had a change of plans given that Ulee broke his thumb when catching in a game a few weeks ago and had to get some pins in it, and he can't swing a bat or catch a ball till August most likely. So new possibilities to show Ulee something I love (vs his love of playing baseball with his team) arose. We've been talking about climbing the South Brother forever together, so it seemed like a good time to do it. It just may over take the Tooth as the most popular TR on CC.com! We invited Alpinfox along, and hit the road way to early in order to miss traffic and spend more time sitting around bored at camp. It was good to have someone else along to trade insults with and to give peace of mind given that Ulee was climbing with a cast and a non-functioning thumb. We camped at the "climbers camp" up at the top of the Valley of Silent men. Our camp was next to the stream that runs down from the North Brother rather than the one that runs down from the South Brother. It was flowing really nice. We got our water out of it and it provided a really nice white noise to fall asleep to. The next morning when I got up at 5:30, it was gone. The stream bed was totally dry! Someone forgot to pay the water bill. It wasn't even running in the afternoon when we got back from the climb, even though Monday was by far much warmer than Sunday. [video:youtube]qaBAliGjjzg Climb up through the burn wasn't too bad, though not as nice as before obviously. Alpinfox only complained a little bit. Snow starts as previously reported at about 4000 get. We ended up putting on crampons mid-way up the first snowfield as at that point it was still in the shadow and pretty firm. I believe you see Washington, Thorson, and Pershing here...with the Sawtooth Ridge (Cruiser, etc) to the right: You'll want crampons and axe going up through the hourglass before noon. It was pretty exciting and Ulee got his money's worth between burning calves and a "no breaks for you" dad consumed and foaming at the mouth with summit fever. Once you're on top, everything is made worthwhile. What an awesome view. Glad I got to share it with Ulee. And Alpinfox. And a couple of other people (hey, it was Memorial Day weekend, what can you expect?) Finally it was time to head down. I roped up to Ulee as he got used to climbing down and figured out how to arrest and front point downward. Things had really softened up, so there was pretty good footing. Next time when Ulee has both thumbs maybe more glissading. He got some in down lower where it is less steep. Hiked out and drove back the back way to West Seattle: Belfair to Southworth Ferry to Fauntleroy. Way more burley than my first alpine climb! Super proud of Ulee. Now he gets to spend most of the rest of the summer doing what kids who don't play 100+ games of baseball a year do. He's headed to the San Juans and then the Oregon coast with some school mates for a couple weeks. Can't wait to get back up there with him or even just go backpacking up in the high country. On the hike down we did get a whiff of some alpine flowers, that smell may be the best there is. Gear Notes: Crampons and ice axe definitely necessary early in the day
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well, a lot of people who call themselves "dirt bags" these days sure aren't at least in the way that Fred defined it via how he has lived...and certainly haven't dedicated themselves to the "lifestyle". not that there is wrong with wanting a more comfortable life. but just like no one has or will come close to his 600 alpine FAs, living in your pimped out van for a summer isn't exactly being a dirtbag. IN MY OPINION WHICH IS WHAT MATTERS.
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It is at this location in the Honnold interview: Impressive climbers [52:40]
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He's lucky to be alive. Jeans!
