Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Impressive. Thanks for the TR, photos, and links.
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My rule is if you place it you buy it. That way if I overcam the heck out of one of my cams my partner's not out $60 and there can't be any hard feelings.
Might want to re-think this as it could lead to conflict. What if the leader places the cam fine, but it walks and/or the second botches cleaning it? Or the second drops it? Maybe just have an agreement to split the cost of any gear lost/left/dropped and if someone wants to take full responsibility they can.
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That's a major bummer, sorry you had stuff stolen..... There is a long history of car prowling/break-ins out there so maybe one of the meth heads is cruising the base now too?
The facts that the pack was still there, other things were not missing, and this happened in the middle of a very active climbing area would suggest that it was climbers who stole the gear, not prowling meth heads.
Very sorry for your loss. One would hope that climbers would help watch over each others' gear not rifle through it for booty.
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surprised ole'drewl ain't piped up on this already though...
Yeah, he usually hikes up twice a day to take pics. Must be on vacation or something.
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Any recent pics? Comments on this year's snowpack in the area?
Thanks.
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You'll find lots of opinions about the Mtneers and other orgs.
Ultimately, you need to take responsibility for your own safety in the mountains no matter who else is on your trip.
Veteran climbers can make mistakes and should welcome someone checking their knots, systems, weather decisions, avalanche assessments, etc. If you trust someone else completely and aren't thinking for yourself you're setting yourself up for trouble down the road. If you find an organization where inexperienced climbers are actively or subtly discouraged from questioning the decisions of the "elders" you should run away as fast as you can.
Learn to think for yourself and assess risk and manage it for you and your team.
And you can find some solid partners on this site. Have fun!
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I've got an update through FB, but I won't share the names of the involved - if you know them, you know them. The climber was lowered off the end of the rope, falling 50' - 75', and suffered a fractured pelvis, fractured C2, and internal bleeding. Its going to take multiple surgeries to put him back together again, and a long rehab.
Please consider using a 70m rope at World Wall, and always have the rope end tied into something - the belayer, the rope bag, or even just a stopper knot. This community has already lost enough good souls just in this year alone, and we're extremely lucky not to have added another this week to that list.
Yikes. C2 fracture can turn you into a quadriplegic for life if it's bad enough. Climbing is serious business. Please check the system and your partners, no matter how much experience they have, every single time you tie into the rope. It just takes one mistake to change your life and those of everyone in your circle. I'm glad it didn't turn out worse and hope he gains a full recovery.
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Thanks Lucky!
A few winters ago two large trees fell across the main trail at the Far Side. People went around them creating more erosion than ever until someone brought a buddy w a chainsaw to cut up the trees and clear the trail...
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Joe,
Some people provided advice. Others gave you a hard time. Absorb the former and ignore the latter, just like you would on any other anonymous internet forum.
And when you find yourself in a hole, like now, stop digging.
Have fun!
Rad
ps. And post a TR when you get back. Welcome to CC.COM!
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A fun exercise is to have find a spot with cracks at ground level and have him place every piece on the rack. This doesn't even have to be a climbing area. Then go around with him to each one and evaluate the placements. This way you get to place lots of gear and get immediate feedback on it without the time sink of rope management, belaying, and climbing.
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...tried to summit Mt. Hood 3 summers ago but only got as high as our camp area above Palmer lift area. It's a long story but high winds and some things that didn't go as planned caused us to not go any farther. ....
Having the good judgment to turn around when conditions aren't right might be more important on your resume than successful ascents you've listed. It may save your life one day. Good luck.
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Shit. RIP. Cue Ivan...
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Bump.
Blade Runner and Skullduggery are still unrepeated. Anyone want a catch?
Kurt is working on a new SnoQ guide with these and many, many other routes.
A few new lines have gone up since this TR:
Under Pressure: 11b. Truck Town Cave. May, 2014.
Side Step: 10c. Truck Town Cave. May, 2014.
Matchstick: 11c/d. Right of Tea Time at the Gun Show. September, 2013.
Franklin's Tower: 12a. Clean rock on a small crag above the Gun Show. September, 2013.
Snaggletooth: 11b. Left of Third Stone from the Sun. July, 2013.
Rail Road: 10c. Right of Third Stone from the Sun. August, 2013.
...
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Touching the Void in the modern era
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Awesome write up and pictures. I need to get back in there one of these days; that terrain looks really fun
Ditto. Thanks for posting
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Are you "Master of your own world"?
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A friend did Colchuck last weekend via the Glacier and said conditions were good. Plus the permit season for overnighting hasn't started yet.looking at Dragontail, colchuck, Prusik, any other must do's?Good place to look look around at bigger challenges for next time too
I assumed, perhaps mistakenly, that he was looking for rock routes.
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Pretty new to the PNW, so im looking at hitting up the enchantments the first time for the long memorial day weekend. Base camping, then doing some day climbs. Never been to the area, any suggestions on a good base camp site to access a number of climbs. not sure what climbs im going to do yet due to unsure route conditions. looking at Dragontail, colchuck, Prusik, any other must do's?
Those will be covered in snow. Snow Creek Wall should be fine, but it will be CROWDED. Icicle Creek had more climbers than ticks last weekend! (And I saw plenty of ticks)
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There are a lot of elements that go into the science and art of route development. ...
The art and science of route setting at the Feathers?
Naah, not here
Art: Deciding which piles of choss could be good routes if cleaned and which ones should remain undeveloped choss.
Science: Placing bolts and anchors so that climbers will be safe.
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Folks, the reality is that route development is not consensus activity. No route developer I've ever met polls climbers to ask if a line would be worth developing. They have a vision and inject passion, hard work, and their own money to try to make it happen. Sometimes the results are great. Sometimes they're horrible. You can't please all the people all of the time. Personally, I try to think about what the near-term and long-term impact of developing a line will be.
There are a lot of elements that go into the science and art of route development. There are a lot of mistakes to avoid, and there is usually not any training or mentoring for these people. I'm not an expert, but if you have questions feel free to send me a PM and if I can't answer your questions I can at least connect you with smart, experienced and thoughtful people. I would at least hope that anyone embarking on this understands that climber access to public lands depends on being good citizens and resources users. One or two bad acts can quickly undo a lot of good work by climbers working with land managers.
Climb on, brothers and sisters.
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I was disappointed in the NYTimes piece. The events of this year need to be viewed in the context of the Steck incident last year and a long history of wealth disparities and tensions across the client/guide/sherpa caste system.
The best article I've seen on the Everest mess is the interview in R&I: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/enough-of-misinformation-the-truth-of-everest
The last question and its answer say it all:
"Do you think any teams will climb the South Col route without Sherpa support this season?
No, highly unlikely unless they are true climbers. Certainly not a commercial expedition."
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Maybe a big plastic owl on ledges for popular climbs would encourage birds to choose another spot on the wall to nest...
best technical pants?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I had a pair of OR pants from 2009 that were amazing: Lightweight, non-restrictive yet fitting, simple, nearly indestructible, and comfortable. I got another pair of OR pants (Ferrosi?) to around 2012 and the fabric was crap and was torn on brush within a year. The original pants outlasted them until this spring. Now I need new ones.
I need pants that are light weight but nearly indestructible as I do a lot of off trail scrambling, climbing, bushwhacking approaches etc. And I climb rock in them. Indestructible but light. I want a thigh pocket I can easily access when leading, no belt, full length (no man-pris). I prefer tan and lightweight as I wear them in hot environments and can always wear a layer underneath if it's cold. I don't care if I pay $80 or $150 if I'm getting a high quality product.
What do you recommend?
Thanks!
R