Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Thanks Sam. Will check them out. You might want to retrieve your rope before someone absconds with it.
I have some new routes out there too. They'll be in the next guide.
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I had an Edelweiss rope BITD. Lovely thing. It came with a book where I was supposed to log all of my meters of top roping, leading, abseiling as well as details on falls. I never wrote anything in that book cuz I'm not a swiss machine.
You could keep relevant info in the rope bag. Each rope stays in its bag, except for alpine outings.
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I just created this account to tell Chirp that us who live in Yosemite and knew Dean on a personal level know how wonderful and caring he was. Your comment only speaks volumes about yourself. So on behalf of Dean, Graham, myself and whisper, you can go F##k yourself!
RIP Dean. You were a pioneer and explorer. A true original. I never sought to follow in your footsteps, but that doesn't make you any less inspiring. Fly free.
Hey CCers, let's not recycle the trash of the comment boards around the interweb. Respect deserves respect.
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Shuttle could be an alternative to parking madness at Little Si. Guess you'll have to leave your crag dogs at home though.
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Gaia already does it by combining GPS w USGS topo maps. From GPS coordinates you can find out altitude, assuming you're not riding your Nimbus 2000.
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Most of the hardest trad lines are pink pointed too. Are you sure she placed gear on lead? I thought I remembered her clipping pre-placed pieces.
Good question. I know there was footage of her placing pieces on lead, but maybe on the send she clipped the pre-placed gear. Will have to go back and watch it again tonight!
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Another question: when will we see 5.15 on gear from anyone at all?
So far, the hardest rock lines in the world are either limestone (Spain) or the bizarre granite of the Flatanger cave. This means super steep terrain with holds. In fact, none of these routes are redpointed. They are pink-pointed, where pre-placed draws are clipped (or skipped).
Marc, maybe you can find and lead the first 5.15 trad climb!
The hardest trad line I can think of without googling a bunch where gear was placed on lead on the FA is is Beth Rodden's Metldown in Yosemite. Awesome Dosage video of same.
Agree w others that risk and technical ability are different dimensions to the sport.
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The NYTimes has posted a long list, with links, of places to donate:
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Making plans to finally head up there this year.
Anyone know what the snowpack has been up there this winter?
Will crevasses, moats, bergshrunds and bare glacial limit our options (or add a significant ice element) in late August? Is early August better?
Thanks much.
Rad
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...extort cash out of ordinary folks.
Actually, they extort cash out of blacks, hispanics, and poor people. Middle class white people and rich folks get a free pass. Just look at Petreus getting probation for spilling national secrets to the chick he was banging. Different laws for different tiers of society. It's sickening.
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Yes, there's no question that was a remarkable achievement, but it was 22 years ago. Hard to get excited about news that old.
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We should have a pool on what person and route will be the first female ascent of a confirmed 9a+ (5.15a).
Obvious contenders include women who've climbed 9a already:
Muriel Sarkany
Angela Eiter
Ashima Shiraishi (let's assume Open Your Mind settles at hard 9a)
Sasha DeGiulian
Josune Bereziartu
Charlotte Durif
I'll put my money on Ashima.
The next question is what route. La Rambla is probably too reachy. Some other routes too power-focused. Realization/Biographie might be the one, though it looks fairly reachy at the top as well and has proven quite hard for even the top men to climb.
Where are you placing your money?
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Ratings are highly subjective. Use them as a guide rather than a true measure of anything. How a climb feels can vary depending on height of climber, conditions, proficiency of the climber in the type of climbing, era, area, developer, and on and on. That said, climbs with the same rating, style, and area ought to be consistently graded.
You can't easily compare 5.9 cracks at Squamish, 5.9 slabs at Darrington, 5.9 on loose exposed terrain in the alpine, and 5.9 sport climbing at X38, but routes in each group should feel similar in difficulty. People who start in gyms might easily do sport routes but be completely shut down by slabs and cracks because they haven't learned those styles of climbing. That doesn't mean the ratings are wrong. They just need to be internally consistent within a given area.
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Don't want to buy a separate GPS but want to know where you are on a topo when you don't have cell service? Check out Gaia on iPhone or android. Fun and useful tool.
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0 to 10,000 should be fine. You might get a headache. Chances of worse are low but perhaps not zero. Stay hydrated, wear polarizing glasses if it's sunny, have fun!
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Imagine someone brought their toddler to the crag and the child ate your sandwich, stepped on your rope and gear, licked your hand when you weren't looking, knocked rocks on people below, dug up a bunch of native plants, shit on the ground close to the crag (and left it), chased squirrels and birds, bawled inconsolably while the parent was up climbing, and slept on your gear or in the middle of the trail.
Then imagine the parent ignored most of these behaviors and said, "Don't worry, he's friendly" when asked to control the child.
You'd think the parent was a selfish, inconsiderate @%#$, and you'd be right.
Why should dog owners get a free pass?
Even on leashes, dogs detract from the experience of other climbers/hikers/users in many ways.
Solution: Non-service dogs should be left at home. Just like National Parks.
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DOES YOUR DOG BITE?
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I always solo TR with a Petzl Basic on my harness. I solo TR on one strand with a single mini Trax.
If I can't get past a crux, I will ascend the rope until I can reach climbable ground again. I attach the basic above the mini, with a biner attached to the basic. Grab the strand below the mini Trax and Merely thread it through the biner in the basic and you have a 2:1 haul system to ascend the rope as far as you want, since the mini or micro will lock automatically as you ascend.
To escape, attach a qd and long runner to the basic, stand up in the runner and clip in short to the basic. The mini Trax should be unweighted by now. Merely remove the mini Trax and attach your rappel device. Stand up high in the long sling you have attached to the basic still, yard in slack on your rappel device, and the basic should now be free to remove, and you're set to rappel. Simple....
Can you post a photo or to to illustrate?
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Hey Rad, I always remove my Micros before rapping down again so I didn't know about the cam clicking thing. I just checked my unmodified Micro, and sure enough it doesn't take much pressure to reengage the cam. Maybe it's Petzl's way of helping to ensure that the cam isn't locked out. I recommend never locking the cam out...I did that way back in the day with Minis and caught myself more than once climbing with a cam locked out. It takes me maybe 30 seconds to remove both Micros from the rope, maybe another 30 to put 'em back on.
I'm typically trying to work cruxes on overhanging lines: climbing, lowering, climbing, lowering repeatedly on a section. Putting hardware on and off the rope repeatedly while dangling in space seems like a recipe for eventually dropping an expensive device.
I've used a prussik as a backup. It's very cumbersome. If you have a device that can unlock and be used to rap/lower as the top piece you avoid a bunch of extra shenanigans. I use a Cinch. I can lower with the Cinch and Petzl micro, but it may require manually holding the cam open on the micro while the other hand is managing the lowering on the other device. Or remove the micro to lower/rap. I'm still learning best practices and open to suggestions.
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I just bought the micro traxion and tried it out for the first time. It worked great TRing on a fixed line (I used it as a backup for the Trango cinch) but when I wanted to lower/rap it kept clicking back to engage rather than staying open when I set it open. Taking it on and off every time you want to go down to try a section again would be a pain. Anyone else encounter this or have suggestions?
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Looks like they used cheaper metal.
Ropes that have grit/sand in them will wear metal (grigri, biners, chains) faster than clean ropes. Think sandpaper. They used to say the same grit/sand will abrade and weaken the core of your rope. I don't know if the latter has been borne out in experiments. But it's probably a good idea to keep your rope out of the dirt and clean it after it gets dirty.
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I had a PT w Raynaud's. I felt sorry for her, but not enough to go back.
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New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Make it so!