Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Go ahead youth, just try asking me if I know what climb I'm about to do. Or if I know where Air Guitar is. I'd be more than happy to ignore you....
Don't miss a good sandbag opportunity!
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Me:
"There are two important traits for climbing partners:
1 - a willingness to suffer. 2 - A short memory".
Partner:
"What was the first thing again?"
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Sprung c#ck Erect is an outstanding route guarded by a non-trivial approach. Roads and trail choices seem to have changed from past posts so I'll put together a trip report at some point here.
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08 or 09 for the block in question.
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Bump. What is the latest drive approach beta?
Are two ropes needed or is one sufficient?
Thx!
Rad
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FWIW the summit block is short. A single 60m got us up and down with rope to spare, so your twin 30s should be fine.
Glacier travel rules remind me of the rules of white water boating:
#1: stay in the boat.
#2: stay in the boat.
#3: stay in the boat.
#4: if you fall out get back in the boat.
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I got speedy email responses, sent shoes out May 6th, and got them back a few weeks later.
Try: Cascade cobbler
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Sounds like an amazing response from local climbers and SAR. Hats off to all involved, and I'm very glad the subject is doing well.
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I haven't been in a month or so. Did something new fall off? There was a large block that fell off the bottom and changed the starting moves for Steep Street and Under Arrest. But that was several years ago now, nothing else has fallen off those routes, and this doesn't affect Rude.
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Awesome! Probably a good idea to go early this year.
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Bump. Looking for two new packs:
1 for long alpine rock routes no overnight.
1 for long alpine rock routes overnight carry over.
I was thinking CiloGear but this thread has confused matters substantially.
I'm 6'1", tall, appreciate weight on hips not shoulders and appreciate a hip belt with some padding. I'm wiling to suffer more on the day alpnie rock routes. Less on 2 day outings that generally involve covering a lot more non-technical ground and have easier technical rock climbing.
Suggestions appreciated. Thx.
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How was the trail to Hedlee pass? Any snow down there? Thinking of another objective in the area...
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Awesome! Thanks for posting.
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38 pages? Wow. Y'all should unplug and try this thing called climbing. It's pretty RAD.
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Finally watched Beth on Meltdown on Dosage V. She places all gear on lead except the first piece, which is pre-placed and pre-clipped. An impressive send indeed, and perhaps still the hardest female trad lead.
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Cutting trees is not the same as scraping moss and pine needles out of cracks. There are cases where it makes sense, cases where it clearly doesn't, and a continuum in between.
Perhaps more importantly, the day is coming soon when Index will be a State Park and it will not be possible to just do whatever the f##k we want without consulting anyone. For that type of freedom you'll have to develop crags on your own land. Right now the property is owned by the Climber's Coalition, so you should seek permission from them for any projects beyond basic gardening.
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I'm hoping to have it on the shelves for Christmas.
Make it so!
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Thanks Sam. Will check them out. You might want to retrieve your rope before someone absconds with it.
I have some new routes out there too. They'll be in the next guide.
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I had an Edelweiss rope BITD. Lovely thing. It came with a book where I was supposed to log all of my meters of top roping, leading, abseiling as well as details on falls. I never wrote anything in that book cuz I'm not a swiss machine.
You could keep relevant info in the rope bag. Each rope stays in its bag, except for alpine outings.
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I just created this account to tell Chirp that us who live in Yosemite and knew Dean on a personal level know how wonderful and caring he was. Your comment only speaks volumes about yourself. So on behalf of Dean, Graham, myself and whisper, you can go F##k yourself!
RIP Dean. You were a pioneer and explorer. A true original. I never sought to follow in your footsteps, but that doesn't make you any less inspiring. Fly free.
Hey CCers, let's not recycle the trash of the comment boards around the interweb. Respect deserves respect.
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Shuttle could be an alternative to parking madness at Little Si. Guess you'll have to leave your crag dogs at home though.
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Gaia already does it by combining GPS w USGS topo maps. From GPS coordinates you can find out altitude, assuming you're not riding your Nimbus 2000.
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Most of the hardest trad lines are pink pointed too. Are you sure she placed gear on lead? I thought I remembered her clipping pre-placed pieces.
Good question. I know there was footage of her placing pieces on lead, but maybe on the send she clipped the pre-placed gear. Will have to go back and watch it again tonight!
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Another question: when will we see 5.15 on gear from anyone at all?
So far, the hardest rock lines in the world are either limestone (Spain) or the bizarre granite of the Flatanger cave. This means super steep terrain with holds. In fact, none of these routes are redpointed. They are pink-pointed, where pre-placed draws are clipped (or skipped).
Marc, maybe you can find and lead the first 5.15 trad climb!
The hardest trad line I can think of without googling a bunch where gear was placed on lead on the FA is is Beth Rodden's Metldown in Yosemite. Awesome Dosage video of same.
Agree w others that risk and technical ability are different dimensions to the sport.
[TR] Les Cornes - Springbok Arete 8/1/2007
in British Columbia/Canada
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Don, we brought 2 ropes (new Fusion Photon 7.8s I picked up at MEC on the way) and they were essential for getting down the gully in one piece.
The first three pitches of Sprung ... Erect were outstanding and should not be missed.