Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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There are many mountaineering skills that are taken for granted by most of those posting above but can kill you if you do them wrong. For example, many mountain outings will have some sections of unroped class three scrambling over loose and exposed terrain. A misstep or pull on a loose block could be catastrophic, even fatal. Ditto a trip on steep hard snow above rocks. River crossings can also be sketchy.
In short, try to look at the whole experience, not just the "technical" part of the climb. The section where you're actually roped up and on belay may actually be the safest part of your trip. Anyone who's been to the Pickets will probably agree.
There are some really easy outings that are truly spectacular. One is the Sahale Arm. Risks are low. Views are unbelievable, and you are close to some amazing terrain. The full N Ridge of Stuart is amazing, and carries few non-rock hazards, but you need to be able to move fast and efficiently over a lot of terrain. Backbone ridge on Dtail is outstanding, but again you need to be able to move fast, and the snow entry and exit can be sketchy without an ax at certain times of the year. IMHO glaciers should probably be avoided unless you have a team of 3-4 on a rope and at most of them have solid arrest and crevasse rescue skills. Have I violated that advice? Yes. Would I take my kids on that terrain in similar circumstances? No.
We look forward to photos of your trip and don't want to hear you've gotten in an accident. Learn, have fun, be safe, and live to climb another day.
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Index is certainly lovely, and deservedly popular. I look forward to more granite goodness. Still, I loathe Rt 2 traffic and am not eager to have my windows smashed by tweakers.
X38 Far Side has rock outstanding rock, and there are plenty of 10s and 11s even some 12s to keep you happy. A new guide is in the works.
Here's a shot of Franklin's Tower, a new 12a finished last fall. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the start is powerful and overhanging. That slabby looking dihedral is actually vertical. This is a great time for climbing as everything is very dry. 35 minutes from Seattle.
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Beautiful adventure! Keep exploring!
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Several people were wronged by Garth on the old books, but that's water under the bridge. It looks like Kurt is going forward with a new, much-needed guide. More power to him.
Route developers and others with detailed knowledge basically have two options:
1 - Share info with the author. You might help correct some errors in old guides, transmit good info on new routes, and contribute FA and other information for a new guide.
2 - Don't share info with the author. In this case, he'll go around and figure out what he can on his own and from others. There's a good chance some of what gets published will be wrong and incomplete.
I've chosen #1.
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Franklin's Tower - 12a? V4+, jug, V2. This is a short line just uphill from the Gun Show. Take the trail past the GS turnoff, at the second switchback look up hill and follow a faint path 100ft to the base of the route. Stick clip as the crux is off the ground.
If you follow the trail past GS you eventually arrive at some super easy bolted lines at the South end of the Interstate Park cliff band. Look into the woods to your right and you'll see a glimpse of an overhanging cliff. Make your way down to it. The left steep route is Snaggletooth - 11b. Just right of it is Third Stone from the Sun - 11c. Just right of it is a 5.10 whose name I've forgotten.
All of these are overhanging and stay pretty dry with minimal seepage. No sun at any of them. For that go to Shangri-La or Gun Show.
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Thanks for the help and the spray. I kindof bypassed index because all I have climbed there has been relatively thin, and I'm just not as psyched on 5.12 slab. Shangri la is fun, I really liked the 11 to the left of the twelves, but the one twelve we got on there had a spooky fall trying to get to the anchors-I would like to go back though. I am planning on trying the 13 up at mt washington, I really like the rock up there.
Is there a topo for ww2 anywhere?
What is the season for nasons? I'm also scared of messing up access there or at equinox, so don't want to visit until I get shown rhe way in.
Hadn't heard of new Halen, will check it out.
Sounds like you were on Hypertension at Shangri-La. That one is just left of the giant dihedral and starts with a boulder problem over a bulge. The last moves to the anchor are slopey if you go left. Try liebacking the arete on the right and you'll be straight over the bolt. The other two 12s are on the overhanging wall right of the giant corner. They're both super clean and well bolted. I suppose you could pitch off going for the Bladerunner anchor on the slopers and sidepulls, but if you pulled the crux these moves shouldn't stop you. The falls are clean and overhanging in any case. The newest 12-, 11+, and 11 lines out there are close by but not exactly the same crag. Glad to show you or try to send you directions. cheers,
Rad
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The WF Sloan Direct in Winter I have seen a good up-close photo of in good condition exactly once. Many tiers of fat water ice. Just to the left the NWF as put up by talucat et al a few years back is very reliable and is pretty similar to other sized objectives like TCs or SGC. Makes for a great backup if you hike in there and the Direct isn't good to go. ...
I misread your note and thought you meant summer rock. Winter is a different story. Access is good so hopefully someone will climb it.
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W Face of Sloan is broken by many horizontal ledges and looks dirty from several angles, so it might not be as aesthetic as photos from below might suggest. Bunker did a long route on the left side.
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There are a number of spinner's on Heaven's Gate.
Bring your adjustable wrench as they're not all the same size.
A shot of the final pitch today...
And the second to last pitch:
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Finding the thank God hold above the second roof on the last pitch of Heaven's Gate.
BTW, this was taken today. Upper town wall is great right now. Get some!
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Great weekend to get off the couch and climb.
See ya out there!
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There's info among the garbage that might be useful. It just takes some sifting. Brandon or I would be glad to provide info on the routes we've developed in the Skagit and X38 areas. PM either of us to bypass the circus. Someone else can provide details on equinox.
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5.12 or even 13 is no longer considered "hard"- just fyi.
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Routes at X38 Far Side:
Shangri-La:
Skullduggery - 12b
Blade Runner - 12c?
Hypertension - 12a (needs a tiny bit of scrubbing on the bottom few feet.
On the way to Shangri-La:
Franklin's Tower - 12a
At X38 Nevermind:
Culture Shock - 12a
The Goblet (I've never been on this) -12b
Under Arrest - 12b (got harder when a block at the opening fell off a few years ago).
In the Woods Area of X32/Little Si:
Lay of the Land - 12a
Digitalis - 12b (I've never been on it but it looks good and I hear it's cleaner than it looks.
Though not 12, there are some excellent 11s on the right side of the Gun Show:
11c - Not sure what the name is, straight up from 10c ramp.
11b - Tea Time, just right of the one above.
11c or so - Match Stick - just right of Tea Time. New this year.
The Actual Cave has some hard routes.
There's a 13a in the upper Mt Washington Area. Bit of a hike up there and there may even be snow there now. It's quite overhanging and may stay dry. I've never been on this route.
There is a giant cave at X38 that isn't in the guide and looks to have several hard, steep lines.
There's WW2 at Si. Others can provide beta for that one.
send pm for beta and maybe a tour if weather improves.
cheers,
Rad
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a wonderful trick it is, to make someone think, that their thoughts and beliefs are their own.
Even better is to have them think your ideas are their own.
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If things get crowded you can always yard up bolts on the monkey and have a bonfire in the cave. It doesn't count unless you post a TR with videos.
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I saw a Monsanto truck swerve to run over a box full of kittens.
Just what this thread needed!
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Countdown to thread shutdown....
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Any repeats yet?
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nationality is irrelevant. anyone can be a good steward or an asshole.
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The Reel Rock film on the Everest debacle totally omitted the fact that after the sherpas descended he went on and fixed their ropes up to camp 3. This effort to help was a second slap in the face that contributed to the problem. Lame of the film team to delete this undisputed fact. Regardless, it's an interesting film.
And congrats to Steck on Annapurna. I still hope he goes back to climb the West ridge of Everest followed by Llotse in a single push wo O2. That would be amazing.
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I'm not claiming bc use is more important than day use, only that the numbers you cite are flawed because you're comparing parks with gated entrances to parks without gates. Apples to oranges. Show us apples to apples data and we can draw conclusions. Everything else is just opinion.
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BS. The low number is probably only overnight backcountry permits. They can't accurately count day-hikers and -climbers. Try comparing over night bc permits across all three parks and let's see what you get. Apples to apples.
Seattle Pubclub
in Events Forum
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Thursday is the only night I'm available next week so I hope it lands then. For those that haven't been, these are fun.