Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Way to persevere.
For future parties, here is the beta on how to avoid unroping in the loose and confusing terrain around pitches 17-18:
Infinite bliss TR w beta on route info
Also, I have a simple topo I'd be glad to pm to anyone who's interested. The last time I posted it mods removed it, so that's why I'm not including it here.
cheers.
R
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Others can comment on current conditions on the mountain. This early in the season the Pocket Glacier could be a major hazard. Unless the road has been re-graded, a 2 wheel drive car might not make it. The road is fairly steep and rocky, with nasty water bars that will eat the underside of your vehicle. This is a big mountain, and the crossover descent will almost certainly have a lot of snow, some of it steep. You should definitely have an ax and crampons.
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Beautiful shots of a beautiful trip with a beautiful woman.
Glad you didn't win a Darwin award trying to get this one:
[img:left]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/9196009765_fda4ec54fd_b.jpg[/img]
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Awesome Tom. Great vision AND execution.
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OK 5.11 climbers. Where can we go when we don't have time to go to the mountains and don't want to bake on sunny granite at Index, or climb the same old lines at Nevermind and WWI, here are some ideas for new cool (literally) places to explore. Hopefully others will chime in with suggestions too:
1 - X38. Yep, it's true. There are a host of high quality 5.11s that stay cool at the Far Side. Jens' bouldery 11c on the left wall under the Block of Doom. There are a host of high quality bona fide 5.11s at Shangri-La. These go into the shade around 2pm. Two fun routes in deep shade all day and very close to Interstate Park lines are Third Stone from the Sun (11c) and Snaggletooth (11b? new last Friday). You can see this cliff in the woods below the S end of Interstate Park cliff band.
2 - Other routes at Little Si. WWI is fine, but you've probably been there, done that. Look into the Woods and Midlands areas in the early afternoon or later. Warm up on Goddess (10c), hop on Gold Rush (11b), jug haul on Godflesh (11a), and try Lay of the Land (12-).
3 - What else?
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Glad to hear it!
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Sweet! Keep up the great work our there!
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Don't underestimate the weather on a big mountain. Some people who plow on ahead with their original objective in bad weather end up dead. Rain and 50s means snow and whiteout conditions in high elevations. So let the weather dictate where you go and don't let your permit affect your decision. My 2 cents anyway.
Happy bday!
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Jimmy Webb and others on sweet swiss boulders
Classic lines, women climbing hard, minimal ego and distractions, no animal screaming, and a rad FA at the end. Hats off to JW. Good stoke.
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Someone posts something that other people disagree with and they get buried up to their eyeballs in insults (see above for proof).
I refuse to read 4 pages of this crap so I'll stop after a few posts, drop my 2 cents, and get back to climbing.
Kev, you're wasting your life in front of the computer writing spray on cc.com. Go out and DO something. Then write a TR for whatever you've done - with pictures please - and post it. I will give you sincere positive feedback. Promise.
But your persona reminds me of someone I met in grad school who was incredibly annoying and knew it. He told me, "It is better to be hated than to be ignored." And therein lies the rub: you're just seeking any attention you can get. Better to turn off the computer and spend time with your family and friends - or do they hate you too? I sure hope not. Otherwise you'd be a sorry lad indeed.
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Nevermind should have some dry routes, but some topouts may be wet.
Amazonia is notorious for seepage so I'd skip that.
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Haven't been out but RDW, Reptiles, and Aborigine all stay dry in most conditions.
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Didn't Sol and Jens have a list of 11 Ltown 5.11s that they climbed in a day?
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This is scary. I'm very glad you and your daughter are OK.
Edit to add: the first time I went up Rainier (only been up twice) I had no crevasse rescue training and had never worn crampons in my life. Conditions were very friendly. My partner insisted on unroping so we could glissade down the upper mountain, which was almost completely filled in because it was early June. He told me to jump over any small crevasses I encountered and then took off below me. I was angry but had to glissade or walk alone because there were no other options. We made it safely down, but in retrospect it was a bit like your experience: everything is fine until you're dead. Hopefully we can all learn from these near misses, because it's hard to learn from mistakes that kill you, or worse kill your child.
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One of my climbing partners has a T-shirt I love:
"Science. It works, bitches!"
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They all agree that fluoridated water is perfectly safe and extremely effective at preventing tooth decay.
I dont think it is up for an aurguement that it does or does not prevent tooth decay. The question is should the government force it on you?
Last time I checked it's called 'public health'. Hell, let's abolish the CDC while we're at it as they're clearly evil. Sigh, fighting ignorance - who knew the Internet would make it that much harder, not easier.
The splintering of modern media allows people to go through days, weeks at a time only reading, hearing, and seeing news that agrees with their world view - because that's what drives clicks, which drives ads, which drives revenues.
This allows people to persist in their bubbles of blissful ignorance more easily than they could 20+ years ago when Walter Cronkite could tell us all, "That's the way it is."
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They all agree that fluoridated water is perfectly safe and extremely effective at preventing tooth decay.
I dont think it is up for an aurguement that it does or does not prevent tooth decay. The question is should the government force it on you?
They don't. Clean, purified and fluoridated tap water is like electricity, roads, public transportation, and a other services that the Guvmint provides for its citizens. They benefit us all and cost money to build and maintain. We all pay. We all benefit.
You don't get to question why we're on 60hz AC vs a DC grid. You plug in or you don't.
You don't get to question whether we drive on the left side or the right side of the road or at what speed limit. You abide by the rules of the road or you get fined, lose your license, go to jail.
You don't get to decide how we purify our water or what we put in it to make the population healthier. You drink it or you don't.
If you want to live off your own well, generate your own power, and stay off the roads that's just your choice. Good luck to you.
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Somehow just seeing this now. The TAY story is an AMAZING report of an amazing achievement. The meat of the story is all in the runnels, so this is just as much an alpine story as a skiing story.
TWO failed anchors at night on a long steep route a long way from the road and no serious consequences? Your guardian angels were definitely working overtime. Glad you came out to tell the story.
2.5 min of paragliding isn't remotely in the same league IMHO.
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Thanks Tim. PM sent.
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Thanks Brandon. Look forward to getting out on more of your routes this year. You need to post pics, topo, map for all the awesome routes you have in Cumberland, or are you still trying to pluck the prime lines?
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Heading to BCN on May 28th and have about 5 days to do some climbing before connecting w my wife and heading to a conference in San Sebastien.
I'd like to buy or borrow the Lleida Climbs and Rockfax Costa Blanca guides. Are there others I should consider? Amazon and other sellers take too long (4-14 biz days).
If you have favorite places that won't be baking hot I'm open - looking for classics 5.11 and under. Suggestions for finding partners would also be great.
Many thanks.
Rad
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Great TR. Looks like I have to add LAS to the bucket list.
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Ira, cool. Glad you got out there. History Book is not a great TR because it isn't a plum line so you risk a pretty good swing on the lower crux. At least there's nothing to hit when you swing. Next time you might do a top belay on Small Arms Fire from the anchor by the snag. Other routes really need to be led.
BTW, I'm not worried about getting older. It's a lot better than the alternative. I use it as motivation to go after goals sooner rather than later, not as an excuse of any sort. As you know, staying injury free while increasing your power and contact strength requires vigilant care.
Peace.
Doing a trip to Exit 32/Exit 38 - Beta please?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Mmmm. Far side beach camping may get you in trouble with da law, particularly if you light a fire. That road leads to a firefighter training facility and is used at all hours of the day and night. It is, I believe, legal to camp along the road on the other side of the highway. At least there's some folks there camped for the season. Best not to leave valuables in your car at trailheads.