Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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...he did seem pretty steamed...
When was he not steamed?
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I was in one of the parties that repeated your "Faith" route last August. I just wanted to to say that my experience with the rock on that face seems somewhat contrary to the description above. I found the rock quite loose and, although the climbing was easy, the objective hazard was higher than I had hoped, especially on the lower half of the wall (real risk of pulling stuff down on your belayer). In the topo photo posted just above, you can obviously see that the lower part of the route climbs entirely stacked flakes. The last 60 meters of the route was quite fun crack climbing in more solid rock.
I appreciate the new routing!! but I just wanted to make sure people were aware of the loose rock. In my opinion, the whole route deserves and "R" or an "X" because of the objective hazard.
We also climbed Sentinel Direct. The rock was way more solid and it was an extremely fun route (one belay on micro-gear), which we then linked into the Grimface traverse (East to West - done unroped except a few raps). We also climbed something on the south side of the Grimface (not sure if it had been climbed before).
Thanks for posting. I would comment that any route in the mountains is likely to have some loose rock to navigate.
On Sentinel Direct, when I followed the opening 5.10 sequence of p2 I pulled out on a crack that turned out to be part of a detached block. It flew off the wall with me attached to it and went crashing to the talus below when the rope caught my fall. The third pitch of Sentinel on the rightward traversing ramp/chimney was a jenga of giant stacked blocks that one had to climb quite delicately to avoid dislodging. The final moves on p4 involved a hand traverse below a giant detached block that looked dangerous. Then there was an expanding flake near the opening of p5. So I wouldn't call that route any more or less solid than typical mountain routes.
On Faith, the first 80 feet of the first pitch did have some stacked blocks, but Brandon and I threw off what we could and subsequent parties will do the same. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary there, and almost the entire rest of the route, other than rubble on giant ledges, was very clean and free of loose rock. So my memory doesn't quite match your impression.
That said, anyone who climbs in the mountains needs to be aware that loose rock is never far away and could be a hazard to you, your partner, or your rope. R or X ratings are typically for the distance between pieces of protection and the consequences of a fall in those spots. I didn't see anything that merits this kind of rating, but everyone is entitled to their opinion.
Finally, why don't you post info/pics on the Grimface line you did? Was it worth repeating? Sounds interesting.
Cheers,
Rad
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Sorry your day ended that way. Local protests and/or media coverage won't help as MNRP is the feds.
My wife got a ticket in Seattle at a relatively new traffic camera on 24th S of Montlake. It's supposedly a school zone w speed limit to 20 during dropoff. Camera system says she was doing 26 in a 20 MPH zone. Ticket cost? $234!!! Crazy. Ticket says the camera trap is within 300 feet of a school or crosswalk. Google says the school (one long block away) is 430 feet. I plan to go and see if there are any crosswalks within the stated 300 feet. I suspect not. And if so, I'll challenge the ticket and the camera, hopefully forcing the city to remove it entirely and refund EVERYONE who got fined by it. I'm not convinced this speed trap is making kids safer until I see some evidence that supports that.
The problem is one of overzealous optimization. Not everyone can afford such a ticket, and this can lead to a nasty spiral. Don't have $234? Wait a few weeks and the amount goes up. Then you're in default and a warrant goes out for your arrest. Then you get arrested. Can't afford bail? Spend time in jail. Lose job while in jail. Lose housing now that your don't have a job. And before you know it you're unemployed and homeless living on the street. Good luck finding a job with a criminal record. Why? So the city can increase its revenues. Don't think this is true? Go look at the patterns of law enforcement and citation revenue increase mandates in Ferguson....Michael Brown was only one victim.
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Instead of replying to a TR why don't you post one?
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So I found out from an old friend that "Valhalla" has been known for some time. Maybe they didn't explore the whole thing, but he has pictures of his experience,
he writes:
"The Jonathan Korn search, 7/31/1992. We spent the night down
there in an unplanned bivouac. I got all on film."
http://corvallismountainrescue.org/media/pre-2000/search.korn/jonathan-korn.search.html
So she wasn't a virgin after all.
And now she's been rap bolted and filmed for TV.
In March, David Lama and Red Bull will film a naked zip line descent.
In April, Ivan will aid to the top, build a bonfire in her mouth, get busted, and the defiling will be complete.
But somehow this thread lives on!
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...I know it would be fun to down a few brews with you guys someday!
We're about due for a pub club anyway. Right, Oly?
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Purdy gash in the earth there. Nice film.
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Maybe we can send Ivan to root out the remaining Y'all-Qaeda occupiers while he's in the area.
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“Now, in my readings and in my travels I have heard, like you, about men of a superior type, possessing the keys to all our mysteries. Somehow I could not regard this as a simple allegory, this idea of an invisible humanity within visible humanity. Experience has proven, I told myself, that a man can reach truth neither directly nor alone; an intermediary must exist—still human in certain respects yet surpassing humanity in others. Somewhere on our Earth this superior humanity must exist, and it cannot be absolutely inaccessible. And so shouldn’t all my efforts be devoted to discovering it? Even if, in spite of my certainty, I were the victim of a monstrous illusion, I would have nothing to lose in making the effort, for in any case, without this hope, all life is meaningless. “But where to look? Where to begin? I had already traveled the world, stuck my nose everywhere, into all sorts of religious sects and mystical cults, but to each one it was always: maybe yes, maybe no. Why should I stake my life on this one rather than that one? You see, I had no touchstone.”
- René Daumal, Mount Analogue
Naval gazing drivel from a devout couch potato. He would've been active in cc.com spray if he'd been born in another era.
Wow Rad! By the way, are you neutered?
Nah, but my wife had her tubes tied so I'm done propagating my genome.
Isn't this thread about probing virgin canyons dripping with moss? I'm sure we'd all like some of that action.
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“Now, in my readings and in my travels I have heard, like you, about men of a superior type, possessing the keys to all our mysteries. Somehow I could not regard this as a simple allegory, this idea of an invisible humanity within visible humanity. Experience has proven, I told myself, that a man can reach truth neither directly nor alone; an intermediary must exist—still human in certain respects yet surpassing humanity in others. Somewhere on our Earth this superior humanity must exist, and it cannot be absolutely inaccessible. And so shouldn’t all my efforts be devoted to discovering it? Even if, in spite of my certainty, I were the victim of a monstrous illusion, I would have nothing to lose in making the effort, for in any case, without this hope, all life is meaningless. “But where to look? Where to begin? I had already traveled the world, stuck my nose everywhere, into all sorts of religious sects and mystical cults, but to each one it was always: maybe yes, maybe no. Why should I stake my life on this one rather than that one? You see, I had no touchstone.”
- René Daumal, Mount Analogue
Naval gazing drivel from a devout couch potato. He would've been active in cc.com spray if he'd been born in another era.
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Screw slot canyons let's talk amazing planetary discovery
Planet-9 is in our back yard
But this is a non-discovery. The wobble data predict a planet-like object with the mass range indicated, but they haven't found it yet! Maybe it's in Central Orygun...
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...I think I just posted my first spray. Does this count? Is this spray?
Not even close. You need a personal attack on one or more posters involving at least three of the following ingredients: random internet memes, animals, reference to body parts inserted into said animals, reference to female family members, uninformed political generalizations, or discussion of bolting. You did get the dripping sarcasm, so that's a start.
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Goodness, folks seem a little uptight.
I think it's awesome you went exploring, found something really cool (I don't really care if others have been there or not), and have convinced someone to take beautiful video and photos so they can share the beauty with others who likely will never see it in person. In a way, this is what a lot of climbing videos and photos are all about. Enjoy your 15 minutes of fame.
What may be rubbing people the wrong way is your perceived sense of ownership over the "discovery" and the hyperbolic descriptions you laid on us without any details to back them up. So the snarky comments you're getting are a result of BOTH your own behavior AND the reactions you've elicited in the posters. This is the bed you've made for yourself.
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Yeah, we all know that Colin is an heir to that Brown & Haley Almond Roca fortune.
I would like an Almond Roca sponsor! Will wear Powered by Almond Roca logo on my helmet. Anyone? Anyone?
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For mortals the deadpoint to the lip might be the crux, but Guillaume thinks the mantle is the hardest part.
The slab highball finish looks like it gets your attention too.
A proud line.
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Oh, I'll bite.
2015:
1 - Got to thrash through the brush and climb beautiful rock with two good friends while developing two new alpine routes (Mile High Club and Faith).
2 - Discovered, developed, and FAd two excellent single pitch lines (Ship of Fools and The Minotaur) and got to share the experience with great partners.
3 - Met some new partners and have planted the seeds for adventures to share in 2016.
4 - Kids are starting to get into climbing, did some comps, and have qualified for Divisionals next weekend in Portland.
5 - Got to do a VW slide show with several other cascade alpine new routers. Great turnout, great energy.
6 - No major injuries.
2016:
1 - No major injuries.
2 - Complete the FA of a single pitch project that thwarted me in October.
3 - Thrash in the PNW mountains and crags with good friends again and hopefully FA one or more great lines.
4 - Discover, develop, and unlock at least one great single pitch line.
5 - Help a friend successfully launch a new climbing gym and help another friend successfully launch a new guidebook.
6 - Take kids (mine and others) outside to experience the joy of climbing.
7 - Bugaboos if weather and schedules permit.
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Cool adventure. No bugs?
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I added the crazy cave demon website link because it's a good one to mess w your head and seemed to fit. It has nothing to do with the OP, of course.
So for those of us who don't watch OR local TV how can we see the episode?
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Search suspended due to poor weather. Heartbreaking.
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Sounds interesting. What kinds of FAs are you talking about? Alpine summits via all routes, including class 2-4 scrambles? multi-pitch rock routes? Ice? Single pitch rock? Alpine mixed? You'll likely get different answers for each category. I suspect pulling data for any one will involve sleuthing through AAJ, Beckey guides and other books, and more modern internet sources. Look forward to seeing the results.
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I'm on iPhone and love GAIA GPS. I don't use even a fraction of the functions, but it's pretty amazing and has proven VERY useful for cross country travel situations. No more taking the wrong gully, ridge, creek, spur trail, logging road, etc etc. No more troubles finding your way to spots where you've dropped a pin.
[TR] Cathedral Provincial Park / Pasayten - Faith FA, Sentinel Direct, Grimface traverse 7/19/2015
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Looks nice.