pnut

Looks like fun!

Very impressive!

The vision! That's what it takes!

Unstoppable!!!

Don't stop til you get enough!

Anyone have any beta on the Evolution Traverse. I'm thinking about it for August. PM me or post if so.... thanks,

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Mount Stuart - Full North Ridge Date: 9/7/2008 Trip Report: Hello all- I seldom post trip reports, but thought I would on this one since it was so fun. I have to apologize for the lack of photos - we were trying to move quickly and did not take many. So Evan and I (Peter) woke up at 2 and left the Teanaway trailhead for Ingalls Lake at 215. We made it around the lake on its west (preferred) side in the dark. Eventually we came to Goat Pass and contoured below the Stuart Glacier to reach the base of the north ridge at 745. No crampons or axes were needed. We started climbing at 815. We pitched out the first four pitches and then simuled to the gendarme. The first four pitches were obvious and fun. We pitched out 2 pitches at the gendarme and then simuled to the top. We made it to the top at 215 and sat around for 30 minutes before beginning the long scree slog down the cascadian couloir. We made it back to the car at 815 pm. I slept for the whole ride home. I have no idea how Evan drove that. PM me if you want any route details, etc. Take care,

I am going to be there! Looks like fun!

Anybody know anything about the Teanaway River Rd conditions. How far can you drive up there now? I'd like to ski up to Ingalls/Stuart. That'd involve driving the whole 22 miles up to the Longs Pass trailhead. I have a feeling it's too early for that....but would like to hear from anyone who has recently tried. PM me here or at peterdsteinberg@gmail

Those bumps are called drumlins, or eskers if they are more elongated than the ones in the photos. They were created as bedforms in wide outwash streams under glaciers and in front of terminus. Nice photos!

Hola- I am from white sulphur springs, in the smith river valley. I can't believe I am seeing this. There are some cliffs downstream from the town of WSS about 7 or 9 miles, on both sides of the river. Both sides have some chossy fun cliffs on private land. Talk to the nearby Buckinghams or Burns for the river left side or right side access, respectively. They may not be letting folks on anymore.... Much better place to go: Stone Temple Park, it's up in the Castle Mountains that are about 5 miles east of WSS. The rock is much better than that of the valley. Access via grasshopper campground and hike 3 to 5 miles. Many 1 pitch bolted and crack climbs on dome-like batholith granite. Ron Brunckhorst (sp?), a guide in Bozeman who is originally from WSS, put the bolts up. I'm going to be in WSS, august 19 and 20, climbing with family and stuff. It'll be a slow big group, but if you're around i'll show you some of the stuff. YOu live in that area?

Anybody want to climb in Darrington on Tuesday? I am almost certain I will have the day off. I'm a 5.10 gear climber. I'm up for anything. See ya,

i'm in the area for tommorow, lacking a partner and desperate to climb.... anywhere, gear, sport....5.7-5.11.. whatever.... i'm visiting from nh and can borrow a friends car, have my gear, will be a belay slave or guide all day, no matter..... 603-536-1689.... kevin.... call me or reply

just keep running...don't slow down

Yep Bug...My story mentioned above was on the SW buttress of Nez Perce spire. I love the route. I went back to do it again. At the scale of the handhold/foothold, the rock is very solid, but if you look around at what cracks and flakes you are climbing on, you realize the buttress has some major structural problems. A friend of mine has another scary tale from Nez Perce. She was on Marvin's Wall, a few hundred feet north (up side canyon) of the SW buttress. She climbed a 30foot wide, 30foot high flake that was about 1 or 2 feet thick. Her friend followed it. When they were at the belay above it, it fell off and tore out a ponderosa!!!! Yikes.

I got you all beat: I fell 8 feet once.... I don't like falling. Only thing like this I have dealt with was on a climb in Montana on Nez Perce Spire, a moderately chossy 9pitch 5.10. At the last pitch my friend led up 30 feet on easy 5th class and stepped on a small TV-size block. He and the block tumbled down a chimney at me and swung out of the way. He ended up relatively clean, a little ways below me (no placements were available). The block came by me and tore the backpack off the anchor. Glad I tied in with enough slack to swing around! We had to walk 3 miles of talus/trail in our rock shoes, dammit...

Last water I had when I was there at this time last year was the glacier before you get on the route. By the way, isn't stuart closed due to forest fire?

Anyone up for a 60 mile day sometime this summer or fall. I'm thinking of a long day on trails with as much running as possible. I haven't begun looking into where to go because I don't know anyone who is into this. I'm thinking of 20 hours or less, but the time obviously depends on where we go. PM me if you are interested (PM's are sent to my regular email...I don't always check this site regularly).

I'd like a good deal on used big cams (4.5 camalot or bigger) or big bros....PM me

Yep...yall should have seen my friend Kai after climbing the Burger-Stanley in shorts and without tape. Pink knees, ankles, hands, white scratched calves, half of fingers with cuts, and bleeding everywhere. That said, he really enjoyed the route too.....

yep, 1st third of asperity looks like a go...is there a good walk off there

What fun...Good TR...is there any gear for the offwidth section that is photographed? It certainly looks bigger than 4.5"

Hmmm....How's the rock quality on the slesse routes you mentioned?

I am looking for a quality long alpine rock route in Washington in the 5.8 to 5.10d range, other than N ridge of Stuart or Infinite Bliss on Mt Garfield. I am trying to think of a new goal for a long car-to-car climb. I don't care if the approach is long, but would prefer it not involve excessive unpleasant bushwacking or choss. (I know, I'm picky)

This discussion is great...I've given up playing chess on yahoo for it!