TeleRoss

There is an excellent loop trip you can do that would be great for 5 days. Start at Phelps Creek TH hike up through Spider Meadows and over Spider Gap. Down to Lyman Lakes. Up to Cloudy Pass, over to Suiattle Pass. Down across the Suiattle River and then up and over Buck Creek Pass. Out Buck Creek. At the end you will have a short hike up the road to get your car. Maybe about a mile or so. Total mileage is about 35-40ish give or take. Plus you could take a day sidetrip without your camping gear and go to Image Lake, one of the most scenic lakes in all of the Cascades. Beautiful scenery the entire way, highly recommended. Awesome views of Bonanza and Railroad Creek Valley, Chiwawa and Lyman Glacier, Glacier Peak, Entiat Range, White Mountains....etc. etc. etc.

does anyone know the status of the 2005 Northwest Mountaineering Journal? Last I saw I thought it was going to be out Memorial Weekend? Lowell?

Texas

Nice TR and pics. I was up there solo yesterday. Beautiful day, sunny and warm with a little breeze to keep the mosquitos away. Passed a bunch of people in the morning on their way out and then in the afternoon a bunch of people coming up, but there was no one else up on Prusik while I was up there. Prusik is bootie central. A handful of nuts and some nice new blue slings. A couple more trips up there and I'll have a full rack!

Right.... Things area still going strong here in WA

Slesse....Yummy

Damn nice in the Tieton on Sunday.

Nice. Sounds like fun. Especially swimming through potato soup. Did you by chance notice how much snow was left on the upper N Ridge?

It was amusing because as we were driving around up there we were like "I wonder if anyone has ever blown this approach...Look at it it's right off the road." Yeah, and sure enough it was us cursing as we were fighting our way across that alder Good stuff

Jason and I decided to go for a little bit of B.C. fun for a day and set out for Yak Peak early Thursday morning. Leaving Seattle around 4:30, we found ourselves rounding a bend in the highway and staring straight up at the crazy granite blob that is Yak Peak. Some low clouds were swirling around the summit, but the weather was looking good and the rock looked....fairly dry. -Yak Peak in the afternoon We eventually found the parking area after some back and forth on the pass and set out for what looked like a short approach. But of course, we took a wrong turn somewhere (right out of the car as it turned out) and ended up having to bushwhack through horrendous alder across a never ending slide path. Note: from the parking area walk down the highway until just past the sign for the rest area, there you will find enormous cairns marking the climbers path. So after working up a nice sweat in the alder thickets we finally broke out below the face. We roped up and set off simuling up the lower slabs just after 10am Working up the low angle slabs, and then a couple of pitches of easy finger and hand cracks we got into a nice rhythm. Simul climbing for a bit up the low angle sections, and belaying others. About midface there was a nice left facing corner, which was quite wet but a lot of fun. -Jason in the corner -Jason pulling out above the corner Above that the rock began to get pretty loose...pulling over large bulges with the rock crumbling in your hands and below your feet added to the excitement of otherwise really moderate climbing. -Somewhere midface A couple of cruxy moves which step out right and then up a rib provided some nice face climbing. In Kearney he says a "vertical rib" but it is certainly not vertical. Really not that steep but the moves are kind of awkward on small edges. Past that the route finishes in a big corner for one long pitch on good rock. -On the last pitch Above the corner we scrambled for a ways and found ourselves on the summit at 3pm with beautiful blue skies and a nice breeze to keep the bugs away. -These two goofballs stole my camera and started taking self portraits of themselves on the summit....I swear Good climb on an interesting peak. Some decomposed rock but on the harder parts the rock tended to be more solid. -Yosemite?....Nope just the Coquihalla Highway After a quick descent off the backside we found the climbers path back down to the road and were back at the car at 4:30. A quick drive down the highway to Hope and we were downing burgers and Kokanees, and making plans for returning for another B.C. adventure.

Right on....thanks

The climbing is never difficult. In fact to call it climbing rather than scrambling is a bit of a stretch. Although there is maybe one mid fifth class move. I wore boots for most of it but put on shoes while waiting for another group a little ways below the summit. You could definitely do the whole thing in boots but there was definitely a bit of exposure on some moves where there was just friction for the feet so it was nice having a little grip on the one steepish bit. I wouldn't call myself anything more than a competent climber so I am probably not better than you, I probably just hike faster. After a winter and spring of carrying skis all over the cascades you can move pretty fast up a trail with a 5lb day pack...

what do you think the chances are for finding a dry Yak tomorrow?

Looking across the Boston Glacier JBerg Forbidden

I didn't have any trouble reaching any of rap anchors, although a couple of them in the middle of the couloir required some scrambling around on rock to reach them. There's enough snow still in there that you can reach the walls without dealing with a big gap. Don't know how long that's gonna last though. There wasn't a whole lot of consolidated snow up in there so it might go pretty quick.

I went back down the W Ridge. Downclimbing with a few raps. There was some snow lower on the ridge that was getting pretty sketchy on the way down so it was nice to have the rope coming down. Also rapped down the couloir, the snow was deep slop that slid with the slightest provocation, there were also a few holes starting to melt out in the couloir that wouldn't have been fun to fall into.

That was my first time on Forbidden. Nice route, although short...wish that ridge had just gone on and on....

Climb: Forbidden-W Ridge Date of Climb: 6/21/2005 Trip Report: Well, so I couldn't find a partner for something more interesting for today, so I decided to go to Forbidden to solo the W Ridge. Long story short....left car a little after 8. Summit just after noon and back in the car at four just as the thunderstorms started pummeling the area. Most exciting part of the day was driving home dodging falling trees and branches and powerlines. Hope that big group that was still up pretty high made it down before things got bad. Pic of Boston and Sahale Approach Notes: somehow lost the trail in the deadfall beyond the creeks and ended up bushwhacking up to the lower camp.... managed to follow the trail the whole way down

I'm coming from Seattle, and might be interested in the N-S traverse of the Wa Pass spires. Yeah that'd be cool. PM me.

I could spill over into wed. maybe...but one day would be better. what were you thinking of?

Ok.... How about S.Face or W.Ridge Prusik?

Anyone up for Wa Pass or something on Tuesday?

Why are you looking for something to use in winter when it's June

We were up in Temple Canyon on Sunday, quite a bit of snow up high below Temple Ridge. We climbed Lighthouse and then made high traverse on ridge until Pogo Col. Descended down to near Lake Viviane. Some snow in that general area. Upper lakes looked quite snowy from the ridge. It was snowing pretty goodon Monday morning, although on our way out it looked like it had cleared out pretty good. Wish we would have stuck it out a little longer, but it was looking pretty grim. We passed two people heading up the trail Monday morning near Snow Lake....how was it up there later Monday?

Here's a link to Sky's TR from his website and some cool pics. Sky's Goode TR