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Everything posted by breadbox

  1. [TR] Sloan Peak - Superalpine 03/15/2020

    Wow. Just caught up on the backstory. Way to go getting back after it!
  2. Advice on our next route selection...

    Fuhrer finger may already be out of condition. We ran into a group on Friday who were descending from it, saying they hit a crevasse that they couldn't find a way around. FWIW.
  3. Kautz Glacier

    We didn't like the rockfall that came down on us in The Fan on the way up, so we crossed the Nisqually from the Wilson on the way down, many other parties were doing the same. Nisqually was pretty game-on though. Dozens of good campsites on the rocky ridge all the way from 9200 to Camp Hazard. We ran into a surprising number of groups camped on the snow that said they didn't know of these, and were camping on the snow only because they had heard that camping at Camp Hazard proper was dangerous.
  4. So, so sick. Thanks for putting this up Clint. I echo your notes on hydration, so critical for the long pushes with little/no sleep. Do you think a foot powder would help at all with the feet? I've been thinking about this since my last episode but haven't had a chance to try it yet - for those long pushes where there just isn't much time to adequately dry feet.
  5. Kautz Glacier

    Returned this morning. Excellent climbing. One tool and one axe should be good to go. Any specific questions?
  6. FS: Baruntses, Corsa axe, Tele gear, etc.

    PM sent about the Baruntses in case ^^ balks ;-).
  7. Boot Quiver

    Just returned - plans changed. We did Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, Mt. Formidable, and Mix-up and the D7's were money for all of them. What helped was having some Montbell puffy pants that I could dry my footbeds and socks in at night, and I dried the shoes some by sleeping on them in my bag. I'll use the same setup next time, maybe with better Sealskinz socks (I lost one so only had one for the whole trip, and it didn't seem to matter much). Thanks everyone!
  8. Boot Quiver

    I was thinking less about stream sections and more about slushy glaciers, but maybe this is overkill.
  9. [TR] Mt. Goode - Northeast Buttress 7/4/2009

    I did a carry-over of Goode in '02, with Sahale and Forbidden. Definitely the way to go.
  10. [TR] Mt. Goode - Northeast Buttress 7/4/2009

    Nice TR! Any regrets about the approach shoes?
  11. Boot Quiver

    I'm coming up there to do Montecristo, Kyess, SLoan, Stuart, & Ingalls with some seasoned friends. Last time I came up we did Forbiddeen/Torment and I wore Vasque Sundowners - feet were OK but climbing sucked - I think I switched to rock shoes for a section or two. My question: I'm considering using Montrail D7's with a recent stealth dot resole for everything - yeah, including the glaciers - with stretch schoeller gaiters and perhaps some seal-skin socks or neo socks for the wet sections. Am i nuts? My friend Ziff says he's been doing the same thing and it's been working well. I also remember a friend doing trekking peaks in Nepal this way - gore text, low-top approach shoes for Island Peak. Let me have it...
  12. Megamid opinions

    I use a well-vented megalight-style shelter, made by the same guy who used to design them for BD. I've been in fairly strong winds in it, in the winter. When properly anchored, they are nails. The biggest drawback for snow camping in them is that getting the maximum stability value requires spending quite a bit of time digging & anchoring & wall building & excavating. Much more so then just throwing up a Bibler. Somewhat like 1/4 of the effort required for a snow cave. Just something to take into account.
  13. The new ultalight tents...

    BB, you talkin bout the new Epic-fabric BD tents or the regular Todd-Tex Biblers? I haven't tried the new Epic tents yet, but understand part of the deal with Epic tent fabric is that it's more breathable than Todd-Tex and Gore-Tex laminate. I'm sorry, doesn't the original post specifically ask about the new BD Epic fabric Ultralight tents? I have a Lighthouse, and it ices up pretty bad. Haven't been in fowl weather in it yet. I've also got a Megalite, which also ices pretty bad (Sil ain't breathable) but has been bomber in high winds when set up properly.
  14. The new ultalight tents...

    BD tents: They don't breathe so hot, so if you don't need the ultralight 4-season sturdiness, I'd say don't bother. Sturdy & light for those who need them.
  15. What sort of strate-ger-y do folks use when sizing their ~ 0 degree bag? I used to buy bags long to store radios/boot liners/water bottles in the bottom but my feet get cooooooold - plus I've loved having the warmth of a snugger fitting bag (I'm 5'5" and 140# and am currently using a 5'6" WM Antelope SMF). I haven't minded sleeping with my liners/batteries/bottles around my body in the wider cut of this bag but I'm wondering if I could get something narrower and longer. Also, how do folks dig the Microfiber vs. Dryloft at this temperature? Any problem keeping your down dry in the Cascades? In the Sierras?
  16. Sleeping bag question

    Check out the Anjugliak bags (Mammut). http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=31&dart=3&tid=1697 I slept in a Speedlight Summer on Shasta last month in about 10 degree weather (in my belay parka and hat) - I wasn't warm but I was ok. If they come out with a bag similar to the 510g one @ around 850g, that would be the ticket.
  17. Split Board Advice

    I only weigh 140 and I ride a 166 splitter. At times I wish I had a longer one. I mostly ride in Utah, however, though have enjoyed the 166 in the Sierras, my current home. The Voile is a much more idiot-proof and unbreakable setup than the Burton. My roomie had the burton and loses his mind every time we go out because something always breaks and it ices up a lot. My $.02. If you are budget, you can also order a split kit & skins from Voile - I split my own K2 and mounted the splitkit on it no problem. It's also nice when you wear out a board, you can just remove the hardware and remount on a new deck. Steve
  18. Just moved here, lookin' for data.
  19. Confessions of a snowboard chica

    Sounds like operator error
  20. Who's got a Western Mountaineering or Feathered Friends 10 to -10 bag that they want to get rid of? I need a ski touring bag for this winter. I'll do trades for ice axes and Bibler Eldo-style tent (from SilNylon!) as well. Steve
  21. WTB: 10 to -10 Western or FF DryLoft Bag, 5'6"

    Pair of older BD ice tools, PM me for more details if you're interested.
  22. Experienced ski mountaineer/climber but new to the NW, never done glaciers/walking crampons. I'm going with experienced friends on 16 days w/ every 3rd day or so going back to the car. Mt. Goode, Torment, Forbidden, Boston, Sahale, et.al. At least one of them is doin La Sportiva Trangos and is pushing me in that direction. I've heard some people have used softer boots like a Vasque Sundowner, though strap crampons frequently pop off of these, I'm told. I got lo-cash and a pair of Sundowners already. Will I survive, or should I violate the credit card moratorium and get the Trangos? Thanks! Steve
  23. What boots for Forbidden, Goode, Torment?

    Me, I guess. Just got back from the first leg. We did Torment, Sharks Fin, and Sahale, and I was in the Vasques the whole time. They were getting damp by day 3, but not uncomfortably so. I'm thinking how cool they would be if you could get them resoled with 5.10 rubber with a vibram tread pattern...Does anyone even do that? We were really blessed by good weather, though, I can see how things would have been not as smooth if we'd had much bad weather to deal with.
  24. WTB strap crampons

    Something aluminum that I can get lash to my Vasque sundowners. PM me or stevebrezovec@hotmail.com thanks steve