kurthicks

Dougie, Check out this thread that we had back in November http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/409283/an/0/page/1#409283 Also swing by the ORC in the Fieldhouse and ask for me. I'm here whenever I don't have class or am not out climbing. Kurt

partner found!

yep, must have been the

I'm thinking of doing something in the Stuart Range this weekend, but I have to be back at the car by noon on Sunday... I'd prefer something car-to-car on saturday, but whatever. Serpentine, stuart NR, Sherpa NR, Prussik WR or SF, outerspace/orbit linkup, etc... PM me. Kurt

When I was there a couple weeks ago I counted over 20 rap stations along the ridge and SE face decent.

god I hope you mean biggs. either way, that sucks.

I saw that as I headed home. for once, i felt glad to live on the east side!

yes. it is as good as people say. I'm going back this winter for sure. no flotation needed. Decent approaches. You can camp for free (cold) in the South Fork or stay at Bison Bill's (or something like that) for about $20/person/night.

Climb: Mt. Daniel-Daniel Glacier Date of Climb: 8/14/2005 Trip Report: Not a lot to report, just conditions mostly...No pictures though, my camera decided to stay at home. Daniel has been on my list for a while as an aesthetic easy route--suitable for girlfriends according to Juan. So we (my girlfriend and I) headed in Saturday afternoon, keen on camping at Peggy's Pond (beautiful, BTW), but terrible blisters ensued and we ended up camping just east of Cathedral Pass. Yesterday I did the route round trip in 4.5 hours from our camp including a climb of the east ridge spire and finding the old airplane engine above the Hyas Creek Glacier. anyone know the history on this? The Hyas Creek Glacier is nearly gone (but has left some cool bivy sites) and one can avoid snow all the way to the Daniel. The Daniel itself is melting quickly too, but is in good shape with about 6-12" of seasonal snow remaining on it's upper flanks. There are a couple easily passed crevasses too. The "headwall" that leads to the middle summit is separated from the glacier by about 30' of talus. The headwall itself seemed steeper than 35 degrees, but that could have been the solo factor kicking in. From there, the trail leads to the top. I found all the usual suspects there: Stuart, Dome, Eldo, Glacier, Rainier... There was a party of 4 that climbed the route too, maybe they're cc'ers and will post some pics. Good route, but a little short. Gear Notes: Aluminum crampons ice axe Approach Notes: buggy

NE Buttress http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/482079/an/0/page/0#482079

what's up with all the car-to-car action on this route recently? The Terror Basin camp is one of the best bivy sites around... nice work

PM sent.

"The fire is 75% contained... All road closures and restrictions will be lifted at 6 PM tonight, allowing public access to recreation areas." http://199.134.225.53/lickcreek/ Oh yea... "Cause: A piece of logging equipment caught fire and spread to the timber" figures.

Glad you like Thielson. That was my first climb when I was 11. Did you see any bolts up there on the route? I heard mention of some...

Amazing.

rescue attempt underway

Thanks to a recent trip up Johannesburg, I now only have 1 ice tool... 1 carbon fiber Black Prophet with pick in good condition. bent handle shape. Purchaser gets rights to the matching hammer if it is found on J'Berg. $125 OBO. Kurt

I just saw some pics from Friday. The glacier looked pretty dry in places and broken, but i bet it is passable. Steep crampons recommended from what I saw.

Route de jour. Nice work guys! From the sound of it, you did pick a better line up the Butt than we did. No dice on my ice tool, I'm guessing...

is the obvious col in this picture (at base of the snow arete) the access gulley to the NW Couloir?

RAR!

I descended the NR this summer after doing the Adams Glacier. I wrote "Not recommended as a climb" in my copy of Selected, just so I didn't forget how bad it was. it's the epitome of Cascades loose slog fests to say the least, most likely hot and dry this time of year too. cool campsites at the 7505' lake and just above (7600') on a dry lakebed, though.

if you go up on to Thielson, please chop the bolts... http://www.summitpost.org/show/mread.pl?f_id=10&t_id=4962

The TR is done (edited above). I have a full route description if anyone wants it, but I won't post it here to keep the adventure of this route alive. oh yea, check out Chris' TR for our week of adventure at Cascade and Washington Passes. an excerpt: "next 10 hours would be 90% vert-a-shwack with the occasional dirty/wet/mossy rock face move thrown in. Highlights include multiple tenuous veggie belays, the jungle gym climbing amongst the hanging tree limbs, making our way *under* a snow finger which occupied one of the gullies and a dirty, loose, sketchy and very awkward chimney which I made Kurt lead"

We used to do some along the North Umpqua River (outside Roseburg) in Oregon. Basalt, I think, up to 40'. climb up, jump off, repeat...