skyclimb

Yeah, i was planning on using the system on top ropes at the student wall, and the north point. I wouldn't dream of going fromt he ground up with a system like that. I guess the error was in my post. For those of you who haven't seen the reverso, it is a basic ATC, bisected with another plate. So you clip in the reverso to you harness, run both top ropes through, and then clip another locking biner' into the bisecting plate. This makes the ATC into a auto locker. Thus, when climbing, and you fall, it locks up. to go again all you need to do it continue upward. Turns out i obviously bailed on smith today, but am going to go fuck around at skinners butte, and play around with the system.

Interesting responses.... Very good points as well

the only thing going splat is my shit on your house dru meister.

I wasn't asking your opinion, your post is about the stupidest fucking thing i have ever heard..... I was asking for analyitical beta on logistics based on a concept i have seen work many times. Learn to read and then you won't look like such a fuck

AHHH YEAH.....

I am wanting to go solo some routes at smiffy tomorrow, and am curious how well the reverso works at auto locking???? Plus what system works best?? I have seen people weight the ends of the rope(top-rope), with a weighted bag, and then hook the reverso in with a locking carabiner??

Gyms help me a lot with strength. When on real rock it is hard to get pumped unless doing laps. In the gym you can really focus in short time what would culminate a full day at the crag. I have learned more about technique at the gym(face climbing), by playing add-on with old timers. naming foot and hands, is the key.

hwy 20, take a left on quartz creek, which is the bridge to green peter resevoir.

It was suprisingly very good rock. At first i didn't trust it at all, because it resembles that of mossy chossy shit. However once i got used to it, all the holds were very solid, and the rock itself is very course. Personally i don't care one bit for the stone garden, so it was nice to see that there is a little good climbing near the resevoir. Great views, and the last 50 feet are overhanging, with small pinches, and crimpers.

Good to see people having fun on the ropes

Just got home from climbing a fun 90 ft. spire near the rock garden outside of sweet home. Many routes, and many grades( sport). The bouldering area is at like mile 3.3 on quartz creek road, take the road till like mile ten or so, and you will see it for sure on the left side of the road.

without a question the garmin vista kicks ass. I have had it for over two years now, and it has become indespensible to my training. I track my mtb every night. then plug the data into Trek Analyst on the internet, and can monitor my progress. I train this way with friends all over the country. It has saved my ass more than once in the winter when huge storms covered all tracks, and would have left me portentially screwed. It is a good safety precaution!! Also it is great to TRACK climbs, becaus eyou can alnalyze angles, calorie burns, and all kinds of data. The Vista is crucial due to its large memory capacity.

also finger was thin month ago. Out by now, as well I am sure as the successors.

And the rest of Moscow as well. What about Cinammon slab? That's pretty easy. Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up. I agree with lycophodyte and the other crack next to it. Also what is the route next to shamu on the arete?? I have been told it is a 10a, but this seems wrong. I would rate it a .9. Another great lead on sport on the rope de dope is the far right arete with the roof. That roof has huge jugs so you can hang it out and beat you chest and s*&t Also a great test piece for sport is the planet luxery on the mesa verde wall. It is a 100 ft pitch that is like a ski ramp, first ten feet 5.7, next 5.8 ...... till last ten feet is a 10c arete lye back to anchors "best route at smiffy??"

I agree that the Mount Rainier: Climbers Guide is a good source for fun reading. For me, any time is a good time on Rainier. Although I have only climbed a few routes, it seems that you can always find something fun to do. Just pick your route according rock-fall hazards, as August is very prone to this. Wait for a few months till ice consolodates many of the routes.

yeah guy... i was gonna be there, but getting the teeth yanked i might still try and make it, would it be worth it if i got my teeth pulled on the 26th and had to be back in van (area) on the 5th? i gues i will be out for a couple days mabe 2-3 at the most... puts me at the 29th... 30th be there... leave the 4th... 4 days.... is it worth it? weather likely to kick my ass if i will be there for such a short time? uber bummed... mabe someone has a wrench and wanst to make a quick $50 after work lemme know You just let me know when and where you want your teeth ripped out. Bring a pair of needle nose pliers, a bag to collect blood(this will be sold), and i will supply the J.D. I am leaving Corvallis the 12th of Sept, and will be returning the 29th. If anyone has any free time i would love some company on the road.

Nice

Yeah, not departing for a few weeks.

I am heading from Vancouver to the Kananaskies lakes area just south of Banff. I will be spending a week(7 days) in the kananaskies lakes area, but the rest of the time i have open for climbing, backpacking, and mountain biking. Any suggestions on places to stop en-route towards Banff would be greatly appreciated. Nick

Thursday night I made my way from the Pole creek TH to the base of east face on the North sister. Camped at 6,400. Was moving by 7:45 a.m. friday morning, climbing via the south-east ridge. Found the snow traverse moderate due to a moat between the snow, and the rock. One 10 foot ice step in moat, but this will melt out in the next 2-3 weeks. Nice twin rope in the bowling ally so no down climbing. Great trip! Conditions are very good right now. Beware of a decent on the edge of the hayden glacier. It is very broken up this year, and would not be safe unless roped up. Can approach below the hayden in the valley to gain the south ridge. All this beta obviously is pertanant to the east side approaches.

Nice TR

Very short notice: Friday, saturday climb of the edumunds headwall on Rainier. Depart mowich lake Tommorrow morning.

I stopped using a bladder for winter climbs for a few years till when chance came i stubbled across a insulator for the hose. Myself and friends have weather -40 F with these things never having a problem. The insulator is a neoprene slip on cover that makes all the difference in the world!

Saw a pair of used grivel mt.blanc tools for 100$. What are your thoughts?? I am looking for a nice set of versatile alpine tools. Thanx.

Iodine. Isn't the wonderland trail 90 miles?? A friend of mine just did a section to indian henry's, and around those parts. Plenty of water for cooking dehydrated foods(obviously). Nice glacial run-off.