skyclimb

Yeah

SOM BITCH. DAMMIT ALL TO..... Just as I am getting ready to leave tonght, I find this.... http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/willamette/ Closed...CLosed.....Closed.... AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! Well Going to flagstone tomorrow, and smiffy on saturday. Probably be on the north point at smiffy. Maybe see some of you there....... Jefferson, you are still MINE.

Anyone knwo if the Jefferson Wilderness is being shut down???? I am heading in tomorrow to do a climb via Jeff Park, and that would suck if closed.

I have been many times with just a drivers license. The kicker is getting back into the U.S., they always search me big time. It was funny, I was heading into the u.s., and they pulled me over to the side, and searched my car.(not unusual), but it was taking a long time, and dogs were going through my shit. Turns out after an hour and a half, it was my chalk bag that had them stumped! ANyways, take a birth certificate, and you will be golden.

Ah Mai Tia on the beach..... Ah mai tai on the beach.... Ah mai tia on the beach.. That sounds nice

I just thought of a good movie script: "Forigner takes revenge for all the helpless soles who have lost their livelyhoods(climbign equipment etc..). Forigner sneaks into said country, and kills the varmin who test the good way of life. Guns, Tar, lynching just a warm up for the main course...." I think it could be a delightful movie, now i just need to become and actor

waz up! Well, never tried the reverso in solo TR, and never even made it all the way to smith. Ended up MTB, and climbing at a crag nearer to home. Actually took a fucking huge ripper over two roofs . I will report when i do test the responsiveness of the reverso in solo TR

Good Guess!

Jeff Park glacier! Approach Friday, climb and decend saturday.

get a REVERSO

As i said, i will not be leading fromt the ground up with the device, but merely using top rope. I will weight the ropes with a light bag, so there is something to keep the lines relatively striaght, and taught. The ropes will then feed through the device smoothly, just as they do when on rap. When a fall occurs, the locking biner get sucked with the rope into the device. THE DEVICE WAS MADE THIS WAY SO YOU COULD BELAY MULTIPLE PEOPLE AT THE SAME TIME. It is auto-locking. I will test tonight, and get back to you tomorrow on what i find.

Yeah, i was planning on using the system on top ropes at the student wall, and the north point. I wouldn't dream of going fromt he ground up with a system like that. I guess the error was in my post. For those of you who haven't seen the reverso, it is a basic ATC, bisected with another plate. So you clip in the reverso to you harness, run both top ropes through, and then clip another locking biner' into the bisecting plate. This makes the ATC into a auto locker. Thus, when climbing, and you fall, it locks up. to go again all you need to do it continue upward. Turns out i obviously bailed on smith today, but am going to go fuck around at skinners butte, and play around with the system.

Interesting responses.... Very good points as well

the only thing going splat is my shit on your house dru meister.

I wasn't asking your opinion, your post is about the stupidest fucking thing i have ever heard..... I was asking for analyitical beta on logistics based on a concept i have seen work many times. Learn to read and then you won't look like such a fuck

AHHH YEAH.....

I am wanting to go solo some routes at smiffy tomorrow, and am curious how well the reverso works at auto locking???? Plus what system works best?? I have seen people weight the ends of the rope(top-rope), with a weighted bag, and then hook the reverso in with a locking carabiner??

Gyms help me a lot with strength. When on real rock it is hard to get pumped unless doing laps. In the gym you can really focus in short time what would culminate a full day at the crag. I have learned more about technique at the gym(face climbing), by playing add-on with old timers. naming foot and hands, is the key.

hwy 20, take a left on quartz creek, which is the bridge to green peter resevoir.

It was suprisingly very good rock. At first i didn't trust it at all, because it resembles that of mossy chossy shit. However once i got used to it, all the holds were very solid, and the rock itself is very course. Personally i don't care one bit for the stone garden, so it was nice to see that there is a little good climbing near the resevoir. Great views, and the last 50 feet are overhanging, with small pinches, and crimpers.

Good to see people having fun on the ropes

Just got home from climbing a fun 90 ft. spire near the rock garden outside of sweet home. Many routes, and many grades( sport). The bouldering area is at like mile 3.3 on quartz creek road, take the road till like mile ten or so, and you will see it for sure on the left side of the road.

without a question the garmin vista kicks ass. I have had it for over two years now, and it has become indespensible to my training. I track my mtb every night. then plug the data into Trek Analyst on the internet, and can monitor my progress. I train this way with friends all over the country. It has saved my ass more than once in the winter when huge storms covered all tracks, and would have left me portentially screwed. It is a good safety precaution!! Also it is great to TRACK climbs, becaus eyou can alnalyze angles, calorie burns, and all kinds of data. The Vista is crucial due to its large memory capacity.

also finger was thin month ago. Out by now, as well I am sure as the successors.

And the rest of Moscow as well. What about Cinammon slab? That's pretty easy. Maybe for sport, Shamu? one hard (kinda) move right off the ground and then a walk up. I agree with lycophodyte and the other crack next to it. Also what is the route next to shamu on the arete?? I have been told it is a 10a, but this seems wrong. I would rate it a .9. Another great lead on sport on the rope de dope is the far right arete with the roof. That roof has huge jugs so you can hang it out and beat you chest and s*&t Also a great test piece for sport is the planet luxery on the mesa verde wall. It is a 100 ft pitch that is like a ski ramp, first ten feet 5.7, next 5.8 ...... till last ten feet is a 10c arete lye back to anchors "best route at smiffy??"