chris

Seems like an easy fix would be to add an elastic strap to the slider that can be looped over the adze, holding the accessory near the head.

This thread hasn't convinced me that any sort of additional mechanical assistance - pulley, ascender, ropeman, traxion, etc. Is actually necessary. In fact all it does is add weight. So why bother?

Don't be so frustrated - with its proximity to Seattle/Tacoma, easy access, and low difficulties The Tooth is many people's first alpine climb. So you should be prepared for crowds and well-intentioned gumbies on the weekend. What we really need to do is develop alternative climbs nearby. I'm curious about traversing Denny Mountain along the ridge top from Pineapple Pass to the top of Chair 2, and finding more technical lines up Hemlock and Bryant. A friend told me that the traverse from Kaleetan to Roosevelt was a mini-Torment-Forbidden Traverse too.

Here's an article from Supertopo about this very question: LINK

My understanding is that Snoqualmie and Alpental allow uphill travel during the day, but ask that you respectfully stay near the boundary. If patrol thinks downhill traffic is too busy, they'll ask that you not skin. Alpental also asks that people check in with Patrol on Mondays and try to check in before / after hours in case they're doing control work. There's a phone number in the parking lot for a recorded message as well.

FANTASTIC!!!! That's the best news I've heard all day. Was he just abandoned?

You could get all of these questions answered much more quickly if you just called TMG and asked them these exact same questions.

I've gotten shoes resoled in Joshua Tree, Bishop, and Ramuta when he was here in Seattle. Everyone did the job, but the Rubber Room in Bishop won my loyalty. Their craftsmanship is excellent and the service is awesome. The cost of mailing my shoes and the wait is extremely worth it, and I'll recommend them to everyone.

The missus and I are taking a short trip to Hood River in mid-July. I've climbed and skied Mt Hood and Mt Adams, but I've never rock climbed in the area. If anyone is interested in showing me around, send me a message. Any recommended climbs, say up to 10a/b? And trail runs? -Chris

I think you're pretty on target. I normally recommend something in the low 10mm's for cragging, and something in the low 9mm's for alpine rock and ice, so something in between will give you a more durable rope for cragging with some weight savings for alpine. I'm convinced that double and twin rope handling is an advanced technique and situation-dependent, so I stick to single strands for most applications. Getting the water-proofed version actually increases durability and can improve handling, so consider spending a little extra for that. I used to be a big fan of Beal, but I started using Sterling a few years ago and I'm pretty satisfied with the cost vs. lifespan of the rope.

Ditto.

I thought it was really remarkable that the customer insisted that his harness hadn't come into contact with swimming pool-related acids, when the evidence seemed to conclusively indicate it had. And I really, really liked how thorough BD was.

Don't be cheap. You could get all the instruction you need and a summit for $260/person/day, with ice axe, crampons, and boots for rent (harnesses and helmets come with the program). And someone who knows how to use the rope appropriately on the route: Timberline Mountain Guides - Mt Hood

Am I the only one who just learned about this threat? Construction could close Hwy 2 for long periods over 3 years. http://www.savetheskyriver.org/

Why? I started writing a lengthy response, then remembered that I'm really running for myself right now - not really spraying about it. And I remembered that last time I started spraying about stuff, I lost my enthusiasm for doing it.

I know its Wikipedia, but this is a good place to start getting educated: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/501©_organization#501.28c.29.284.29 So it appears to me that these groups aren't seeking tax-exemption, but are simply seeking to keep their donor list private.

Do you still find yourself squinting? If you already have the strongest lenses, its got to be the frames. And a tight fit isn't necessary at all - just something that blocks the reflected light from the sides and below. I routinely use two pairs of more casual ski glasses (Native's), one pair with a brown lense for overcast/low light days (and driving) and the exact same model with a darker lense for sunny days - so dark that I can't use them to drive. Another possibility is that you're simply light-sensitive. Your profile pic looks pretty ginger-y, and folks with impossible-to-tan-fair-skin are also more likely to have light-sensitivities. You may need to check with an ophthalmologist.

@ Kevbone - I agree. @pink - rappel tat is left behind for a reason. On popular routes, more permanent anchors last longer, require less maintenance, and make more sense and leave less of a visual and environmental impact than much of the trash I see at Washington Pass and Boston Basin.

I am completely biased, but I don't think you can go wrong with Snoqualmie Pass. Of course, its very close to almost over (if its not there already) - but there's still the Muir snowfield and the south side of Mt Baker, Mt Adams, and Mt Hood to get going on!

Umm, no. Not a necessity for MOST climbs. Unless the climb has a walk-off descent, fixed anchors are a necessary evil. And in my experience, more climbs require rappels than provide for walk-offs. If and only if a route is very popular (like the West Ridge of Forbidden) do I advocate for bolted anchors to replace the ugly tat that litters every horn.

Before this devolves, IB is in the wilderness - the USGS maps (at the time) showed an incorrect boundary. That was part of the controversy.

Call Whittaker Mountaineering (also part of the RMI empire) and ask - if they don't, they may be able to point you in the right direction.

It certainly could close the access from Heart Lake Road, perhaps even jeopardize climbing entirely - the owners want to clear the timber and then develop the land for single-family houses. I'm emailing the WCC and AF. This is potentially a Bad Thing.

I'm flying to Chamonix next week, and in standard operating procedure, still haven't found a place to stay. Any recommendations (other than plan ahead)?

Outstanding! I just bookmarked this page for later this spring. Thanks!