chris

I think its also a timing issue - once the route was re-established on the lower mountain, would there be enough time to acclimatize and make a summit attempt before the monsoon? I wonder.

A permitted guide service is able to make a reservation only before 31 May, and pays a special non-refundable fee for that reserved permit - after 31 May guide services have to apply just like anyone else, and any unreserved permits are made available to everyone. Probably 90% of my guided trips are booked after this reservation deadline - last year, it was 100%. Normally I just get there in time for opening and and have a second plan ready - remember, its not a big deal to me if I repeat a route (besides, there are some really fun alternatives). I wasn't able to get the permit I wanted twice last year. Depending on the length of the trip, I also try to avoid entering Boston Basin on the weekend. If a guest is insistent on climbing in Boston Basin (i.e. would rather cancel than climb something else), I'll offer to head over a day early providing I'm compensated for my time. Caveat - this is the system as I understand it, but I don't own a guide service and don't routinely have to deal with commercial permitting, so I may be wrong. And just to be clear, a guide service actually has two permits in NOCA - a commercial permit to operate within the park, and then a wilderness permit for a specific trip, just like a non-guided trip.

Kurt's got it right - anyone in your team can get the permit 24 hours in advance. Boston Basin is the only zone that I've ever had problems getting into. Depending on what your objectives are, I've simply had an alternative climb ready to go too.

Sorry for the late post, but was doing a quick search for Chair peak climbs when I saw this. Avalanche hazards on the exit need to be taken seriously - Chair basin cross loads when windy, and last year a team tripped a D1 in the same location as this incident that carried one climber into the debris field, where multiple collisions with ice blocks left him with a broken arm, broken leg, and internal bruising. It could have been much worse had he impacted with another part of his body.

Josh, by this do you mean you only want responses from climbers who live in Southern California? And what is your demarcation between South and North?

I've had great and prompt service from Salewa/Dynafit customer service. The only time they've been delayed is when they were waiting on inventory from Europe to arrive, and they let me know about it. Give Pro Ski and Mountain in North Bend a call - there's a good chance they have the part you need.

Updated to reflect sold pieces. Feel free to pm me with any questions!

OK, moving more inventory again! All of these pieces are 3-5 years old, some have a few patches, and all fit a typical 6' tall, 180-200lbs guy. If you'd like to see more photos PM me. I'm happy to meet/deliver within Seattle city limits, locations outside of Seattle depending on a case by case basis. Here's the goods: SOLD!! Outdoor Research Trailbreaker Pants, Size Large LINK, these pants are in great shape with no rips or tears. A little wear visible in the powder cuffs. Retails for $195, found online for $146 (25% off), yours for... $60 (almost 70% off) + shipping. OR Igneo Pants, Sz Large LINK, these pants have a relaxed fit more suitable for the resort, mechanical-accessed backcountry, or the occasional touring day. These have some tears on the inside cuff panel that I've carefully repaired and seam-sealed to insure water-proofness. Retails for $199, found online for $105 (47% off), yours for... $60 (70% off) + shipping SOLD!! OR Axiom Jacket, Size LargeLINK, this jacket is in great shape and only here for sale because I was gifted this year's model. Retails for $395, found online for $200 (50% off), yours for... $99 (75% off) + shipping OR Salvo Jacket, Size Large This is an awesome alpine jacket - I know several guides who bought an extra one when they learned it was being 86'ed. It has a trim fit, a great feel, and the hood fits well under a helmet. In "almost new" condition. It was meant to be a no-frills, minimal feature soft shell with Windstopper fabric. Retailed for $259, found online for $130 (50% off). Yours for... $75 (more than 70% off) - plus shipping. OR Mithril Jacket (Blue), Size Large LINK, this jacket is actually blue, not black as it may look in the photo. In great shape, again being replaced by a newer jacket. Relaxed fit makes it an awesome mid-winter backcountry jacket to layer over more insulation or to wear at the resort. Retails for $225, found online for $119 (53% off), yours for... $65 (more than 70% off) + shipping OR Havoc Jacket, Size Large LINK,this synthetic puffy is an awesome insulation piece. Simply time for me to update, but this one still has a lot of life left. It has two small holes carefully repaired by me. Retails new for $225, found online for $130 (58% off), yours for... $60 (more than 70% off) + shipping SOLD!! Feathered Friends Hyperion Hoody Jacket, size large LINK, this jacket was custom ordered with a hood, making it an awesome lightweight insulation piece. It does have two holes that I've carefully patched, and a weathered appearance after a +300km snowmobile traverse in Antarctica, but it has been laundered since then and is clean! This jacket would retail for $334, yours for... $85 (75% off!) + shipping

Come on - it wasn't that bad! I saw you grinning about it!

That's one of the best cheap ideas I've heard.

I have a set of Dyanfit Speed Turn Classic bindings for sale - this is the previous generation before the Radicals, and no longer in production. I can't find them anywhere on the internet, though they're still listed on Dynafit's website. The newer Speed Radical's retail for $400. I'll get a picture up soon, and a price, or you can beat me to the punch and make me an offer. Cheers EDIT: Learned something new - the Speed Turn uses the Radical toe and tower with a "Classic" heal lift tower instead of the Radical flip-levers, and only available in Europe. What I'm offering is the previous Speed bindings that preceded the new Radicals.

PRICES REDUCED! Trailbreaker Pants - $68 (65% off) Igneo Pants - $60 (70% off) Axiom Jacket - $138 (65% off) Salvo Jacket - $90 (65% off) Mithril Jacket - $78 (65% off) Havoc Jacket - $67 (70% off) Hyperion Hoody - $84 (75% off!) Chaos Jacket - $75 (70% off)

I think the dynamic vs static is determined by what the rest of the climb requires. For the occasional short rock step or bergschrund crossing I'll use a "rando" rope and double it up for the technical "pitch". Its nice to have a lighter rope for the DC, Coleman-Deming, etc. But if I'm anticipating technical pitches, the dynamic comes out. The Cascades, like the Alps and western Canada, have countless examples of technical routes that require moderate glacier travel beforehand and/or afterwards. I always use butterfly knots in a team of two. I've even used them on really broken terrain with a team of three. DPS caught me in a crevasse fall in the Ruth Gorge about 10 years ago using this method. And I've been able to catch every "practice" scenario in my guides' training and examination using this method too. Lastly - learn how to use a garda hitch - it has a couple of great applications in crevasse rescue for ascending a rope and providing an auto-belay on the haul system.

Kurt - I'll bring them on Saturday and let you try them on!

Error and Correction: These are the older lace-ups, not the velcro! Sorry for the mistake.

OK, moving more inventory. All of these pieces are 3-5 years old, some have a few patches, and all fit a typical 6' tall, 180lbs guy. If you'd like to see more photos PM me. I'm happy to meet/deliver within Seattle city limits, locations outside of Seattle depending on a case by case basis. Here's the goods: Outdoor Research Trailbreaker Pants, Size Large LINK, these pants are in great shape with no rips or tears. A little wear visible in the powder cuffs. Retails for $195, found online for $146 (25% off), yours for... $80 (almost 60% off) + shipping. OR Igneo Pants, Sz Large LINK, these pants have a relaxed fit more suitable for the resort, mechanical-accessed backcountry, or the occasional touring day. These have some tears on the inside cuff panel that I've carefully repaired and seam-sealed to insure water-proofness. Retails for $199, found online for $105 (47% off), yours for... $75 (65% off) + shipping LINK, this jacket is in great shape and only here for sale because I was gifted this year's model. Retails for $395, found online for $200 (50% off), yours for... $160 (60% off) + shipping OR Salvo Jacket, Size Large This is an awesome alpine jacket - I know several guides who bought an extra one when they learned it was being 86'ed. It has a trim fit, a great feel, and the hood fits well under a helmet. In "almost new" condition. It was meant to be a no-frills, minimal feature soft shell with Windstopper fabric. Retailed for $259, found online for $130 (50% off). Yours for... $105 (60% off) - plus shipping. OR Mithril Jacket (Blue), Size Large LINK, this jacket is actually blue, not black as it may look in the photo. In great shape, again being replaced by a newer jacket. Relaxed fit makes it an awesome mid-winter backcountry jacket to layer over more insulation or to wear at the resort. Retails for $225, found online for $119 (53% off), yours for... $90 (60% off) + shipping LINK - this synthetic puffy is an awesome insulation piece. Simply time to update, but this one still has a lot of life left. It has two small holes carefully repaired by me. Retails new for $225, found online for $130 (58% off), yours for... $80 (almost 65% off) + shipping Feathered Friends Hyperion Hoody Jacket, size large LINK - this jacket was custom ordered with a hood, making it an awesome lightweight insulation piece. It does have two holes that I've carefully patched, and a stained appearance after a +300km snowmobile traverse in Antarctica, but it has been laundered since then and is clean and without any fuel odor. This jacket would retail for $334, yours for... $100 (70% off) + shipping OR Chaos Jacket, Size Large LINK - another great insulation piece, again with two small holes carefully repaired by me. This jacket layers on top of all your other layers easily, making it an awesome mountaineering puffy (like for breaks on Mt Rainier). Retails for $250, found online for $175 (30% off), yours for... $90 (almost 65% off) + shipping

OK folks - unloading some old inventory at great prices for you. Here's what up. All of these packs are advertised to fit a 17-22" torso, and all feature BCA's insulated hydration sleeve in the shoulder strap, which inspired the line name. I'm happy to meet/deliver anywhere within Seattle city limits - other locations depend on a case-by-case basis. SOLD!! - BCA Stash OB, 16L This single-compartment pack has all of the features of the Stash line - vertical snowboard carry, pockets on the hip belt, diagonal ski carry, goggles pocket, and of course the insulated shoulder sleeve for a hydration hose. Sleeves inside the single compartment keep wet shovels, probes and skins away from your dry jacket and gloves. And in a distinctive "John Deere green" color scheme. This is an awesome sidecountry pack. Retailed for $109.95, found online for $55, yours for... $45 (60% off) + shipping BCA Stash Squall Pack, 27L, unique John Deere green This pack has everything you want, and nothing you don't. This was a production sample color, so it is a unique pack. Diagonal ski carry, single compartment with internal sleeves for shovel and probe, external goggle pocket, internal bits-and-bobs pocket, drawstring and roll-up top, back-panel zipper for alternate access, and a minimalist hip belt removed by me. Originally retailed for $99.95, close-outs on the internet for $55, but yours for... $40 (60% off) + shipping BCA Stash Throttle, 35L Marketed for the sledheads, this is a BCA Stash BC without the ski/snowboard attachments. Would be a decent winter hiking/snowshoeing pack. Retailed for $134.95 back in the day, I found one on E-bay for $87.99, yours for... $40 (70% below retail) +shipping. SALE PENDING! BCA Stash BC, 35L, 3 yrs old This is the second-to-last generation of the Stash BC packs, with a wire cable for the diagonal ski carry. I removed the straps for a vertical snowboard carry. All the features that the Stash BC was famous for - the hydration sleeve, helmet net, pockets on the hipbelt, separate compartment for avalanche rescue gear and skins, back panel/side zipper for alternate access, etc. Retailed for $135, found on-line close-outs for $67.50 (50% off), yours for... $47 (65% below retail) +shipping. SOLD - BCA Stash BC, 35L The last year's final generation of the Stash BC, this pack has been replaced this year by the Stash 30. Differs from the pack above only in the wire cable was replaced with a reinforced strap to save weight, and the straps for a vertical snowboard carry are still intact. Retailed for $135, found online for $67.50, yours for... $55 (60% off) + shipping SOLD!! BCA Stash Alp 40, 40L Stepping aware from the clamshell zipper design of the rest of the line, the Stash Alp 40 features external sleeves for shovel, probe and skins, a removable lid, roll-top closure and back panel/side zipper for alternate access. A lot of space for those who like to pack heavy, or simply prefer less tetris management. Retailed for $157, can't find online, yours for... $65 (almost 60%) + shipping

This rescue sled can be built with a pair of skis (preferably the patient's) or splitboard. Comes with 4x18" straps, collapsing "pro" spreader bars, and tensioning litter. More about the sled can be found here: LINK - Brooks Range Mountaineering Ultralite Rescue Sled. This sled retails for $238. Yours for... $95 (60% below retail) + shipping.

This is the previous generation, utilizing a wire loop to pull instead of the new "Stealth" model. Message me if you'd like to see photos. The current generation retails for $80.00, but this can be yours for: $25 (70% below retail) + shipping.

A little bit of wear on the big toe of the right foot. PM me and I can text you detailed photos if you're interested. $25 + shipping.

There is some discrepancy in the OMA account. If I remember correctly Glen moved to Rainier in 2000-2001, and started his business that winter. OMA's website is outdated - no updates to their conflict with Mountain Savvy since 2001, their database was last updated in 2008, and the last post in their forum was in April 2012.

@ Ben - not extactly. Mountain Savvy only provides avalanche courses and has a different permit than TMG's year-round guiding access. There are also a couple of other organizations that offer summer-time services.

Mountain Savvy is NOT affiliated with Timberline Mountain Guides. Its a separate company altogether - and I know and respect the owner. However I work with Timberline Mountain Guides on occasions, and strongly recommend them to anyone. You can see Timberline Mountain Guide and Oregon Ski Guide's calendar on their websites.

A typical Level 1 avalanche course is 3 days, or 24 hours of instruction, consisting of 8 hours indoors (either all at once, in two evening sessions, or spread out over the three days) and 2 days in the field. The AIARE curriculum has become the most standard. There are also Avalanche Awareness clinics, which typically are anything less than a level 1 class, and can run the gamut of 2 days in the field with no classroom time to an hour-long power point presentation. Alternatively, you can also get a group of friends together and hire a guide service like Timberline Mountain Guides or Oregon Ski Guides for private instruction. TMG/OSG also offers typical avalanche courses. Just as a caveat, I've learned over time that many self-educated backcountry travelers have BIG GAPING holes in their avalanche education, and some serious misunderstandings of the "why" behind things happening. More than a few times someone has reassured me that they knew something, only to find that their understanding is very flawed and we now have to spend time backtracking to fill in those holes or correct those misunderstandings. Sometimes the most efficient way to make sure your student has a solid grasp of the material is to start at the beginning. Feel free to post any follow up questions or PM me.

FWIW, both the current lame-duck Seattle mayor and his predecessor have stated, in interviews, that implementing and enforcing some sort of bicycle registration simply isn't cost-effective. I personally support property taxes to build pedestrian, bicycle, and metro infrastructure - the people and businesses who reside here are the ones that benefit the most from these improvements. And for every bicyclist I see do something stupid or illegal, I've witnessed at least 3 auto drivers roll through stop lights, run stop lights, speed, speed in a school zone, cut someone else off, and do all of the above with a cell phone in their ear. I've never, ever, witnessed or heard of anyone receiving a traffic ticket while riding a bike in Seattle. And that's STUPID. Every time this topic comes up, everyone expects that bicyclists will "naturally" behave and follow the law without enforcement. I invite and encourage the SPD to begin enforcing traffic laws on bicyclists (this includes me). I think that people ride like they drive. Crappy drivers = crappy bicyclists too. And fixies are to bicycling what telemarking is to skiing.