Sol

looking to head up to glacier and work on personal projects in the pumphouse on friday around 2. any bhamsters interested? PM me.

I know. I'll have to try ebay.

it's the old purple turqziuse combo.

Petzl brand wall hauler. $30. used 4 or 5 times. works fine, selling so that I can upgrade. PM.

Climb: Mt. Goode-Northeast Buttress Date of Climb: 7/22/2004 Trip Report: jshamster and I headed up to Goode on july 21st via rainy pass. the approach went well, pretty straightforward scramble up to base camp (just stay in the first watercourse). overall the route was very routinue, nice rock, long easy line. the only thing that surprised up was the ice cliff on the goode glacier to reach the buttress toe. It was pure water ice with a few 70 deg steps. we managed with no screws, no pickets, and raven pros but I would recommend one tool a piece (no axes) and a screw or two if ya don't feel like free-soloing. we descended via storm king col with the upper goode glacier being pretty straight forward and an easy exit ramp of low angle ice below the highest ice fall. 12 1/2 hours bivy to bivy. Gear Notes: small alpine rack, one 50m 9mm, crampons, ice axes (tool woulda been better). Approach Notes: long and hot.

Hybrids man. ecspecially the blue/green, and the yellow green.

A friend of mine fell on the second or third pitch of this route about 2 years ago when a hold broke. he fell around 40-50 feet and broke both his ankles. he required a rescue and set a record for the longest lower in squamish history (something like 1000 ft.). he does not really climb technical rock anymore. he was onsighting 5.11 in the valley at the time and had just onsighted the grand wall with his partner. from what he said the route is pretty runout on old bolts with loose rock. he did say that at the beginning of the third pitch he saw a line of brand new bolts going out left. It turns out this is a somewhat new variation that was bolted to avoid that third pitch, it goes at 10c. it's up to you, but with all that beautiful and solid granite around why climb a chossy basalt dike?

Dude. you gotta do the full day N & S twin sister solo. up w ridge of the north twin, descend south gullies to basin. up and over N ridge of south twin to sisters glacier, traverse glacier to NE ridge, up NE ridge to summit of south twin, descend w ridge of south. super fun, all there. i'm not sure, but I don't think that's the obleisk.

for the summer!!!!!!!! I just took my last final and I am stoked! to all the other students out there, were finally f$#@ing done! this summers gonna

Climb: Mt. Maude-N. Face Date of Climb: 6/1/2004 Trip Report: Left Bellingham late on sunday night with partner Ty Johnson. Rolled into Phelps trailhead around 2 am. Leisurely start on memorial day morning found us at the low bivy around 1 in the afternoon. Summits of 7-fingered jack, and Maude were covered in clouds most of the day but overall weather was surprisingly good: partly cloudy, broken sunshine. hiked up to the col west of 7 fingered for a look at the backside of Fernow (whoa) in pure midday snow slop. crashed out early praying for cool and clear weather overnight. Woke up at 3:30 am on June 1 to clear skies and amazingly hard snow. Left bivy at 3:45 and found perfect cramponing up to the maude, 7 fingered col. Hit the col at 5 am just as the sun rose. followed tracks for the first third of the traverse to where they mysteriously stopped??? the traverse got much harder after that point as the snow became a bit more variable (breakable crust atop sugar snow) and the terrain steepened. at this point we each pulled out our tool and negotiated our way through steeper snow flutings with icy runnels in between (crux) until finally we reached the bottom of the face. a note about the traverse: some parties may want to protect this section as it is currently steep and exposed snow and ice. to limit our time we chose not to, though it was still early in the morning, rockfall was present and we both were pegged at different times with golfball sized rocks. one would proabaly be able to drop down further on the traverse in hopes of finding easier terrain. conditions on the first 1000 feet of the face were awesome hard snow, they got a little crusty towards the top but in all remained stable and fun. finished the face via a steeper 50 degree variation to the left to avoid exposure under the cornice. Summited at 7:15 on neato rime covered summit. Nice views of Glacier Peak, Bonanza, and even Baker. took south side easy descent with continued hard snow conditions all the way back to camp. back to bivy at 9:15. Gear Notes: one ice axe, one tool. we brought a rope and some gear but never felt the need to rope up. Approach Notes: sections of snow on trail but very easy to follow.

it's in kearney's book but not the other two: W Ridge of N Twin Sister. Great training climb for all us bhamsters, nice mtn bike ride in, aesthetic easy ridge scramble, quick (though a bit sketchy) glissade down. If you know the way it can be climbed in 1/2 a day from bham. Want more? fun all day solo or whatever: climb w ridge of N twin, downclimb south gullies to the sisters basin, up and over the col between the N and S twin sister to sisters glacier, traverse sisters glacier to foot of NE ridge, climb NE ridge to summit of S twin, ,descend W ridge of S twin, go eat voluminous burrito at casa, wash down with IPA from boundary bay. want even more? w ridge of skookum, w ridge of cinderella.

I'd also recommend going later as well. we climbed it in early august last year, and it seemed to be a good time for the ascent. we were able to traverse below the glacier on dirty slabs that actually went much quicker than working your way through the receding glacier. but honestly I wouldn't really recommend the route at all. way too much easy, dirty, bushy climbing for the super-manky rap anchors your going to use to descend. I don't know, there's lots of routes that I would climb more than once but the NE ridge is not one of them. what about that central pillar on the N face??? i'm sure it's not in shape yet, but what a line.

word

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....good info, thanks. any more thoughts folks?

Thinking about jumping on this route in a couple weeks. anyone climbed it recently (past five years). Both beckey and Mclane state, "surprisingly good rock." they also state the arete stays away from the objective hazards that exist on each side from the icefalls. anybody ever seen major hanging glacier cleavage hit the arete? proablay bring a few pins, couple a cams, set of nuts, couple of screws, couple pickets. any other recommendations? How about those mixed pitches to access the glacier? any constructive thoughts would be appreciated.

Still there. I thought it was a metolious though. The cam that I am refering too was placed in the thin crack that begins yout zig back left after you have completed your zag right, above the fixed orange metolius that's been there for a while, and just past the satanic rope drag nut placements that some choose to place. It's the only cam that I've ever lost. It had been taken off my rack and was intended to ship to CCH for repair because the metal sleeve that activates the cam was nearly seperated. Somehow , instead of grabbing my girlfriends blue alien, mine got on the rack, lasted long enough to place, and then broke while attempting to clean. Lame!!!!!!!!!!!!! as soon as my tendonitis subsides i'm heading back with a toolbox (i.e crowbar).

I've only been climbing at Index for about a year, but a lot of it has been aiding in the rain, in the winter, by myself. Gear count to date: Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet Belay Jacket Pair of climbing shoes 4 wired nuts Lost arrow (chill, I found it on the ground) wild country friend brand new spectra cordellete 2 brand new petzl attache biners 4 ovals 1 misc. locker Each time I found gear that was substantial I put a sign in the parking lot. No one has ever called. I gave the helmet, shoes, and belay jacket to indigent climbers in need. I actually ran into the guys who left the brand new expensive cordellete anchor about six weeks after I retreived it and gave it back. the last thing you want is bad gear karma. on a side note, is that blue alien still fixed at the crux on Princely's first pitch?

what'cha think the ptarmigan traverse will be like without skies around mid-june? too early? what about with skies? too late? thanks.

I have recently begun experienceing tendonitis type symptoms in my forearm. I've been doing lots or research on the internet and asking diffeerent people for advice. though I've been using the RICE formula for healing, I've come across a lot of hype about the MEAT treatment. Does any body have any expereience with MEAT treatment? Can you explain it to me? Also, is ice and compression beneficial once swelling has been reduced? don't they reduce circulation which is vital for healing and because of limited circulation is the reason forearms injuries take so long to rehabilitate? Lastly, has anyone ever used hydro-contrast therapy for this type of injury? what is your formual, and what were your results? in the past I have done 2 min hot followed by 30 sec cold for about 3 cycles and always ended on hot. any suggestions?

Heads up folks. Last thursday while leading the 11a extension to the third pithc of Heart of the Country, the giant coffee-table sized flake that you pull on to get into the crack made a very loud pop and subsequent creak then pulled out about a 1/2 inch . If that thing goes with people below on GM or Phone calls from the dead the proabability of survival is low. As much as I love Index, it is an exfoliating choss pile, be careful.

sorry to hear about the injury Darin. As one who has been under the knife about 8 times and is currently missing a spleen, your attitude about it all . ginnie jo, issac and I would love to pump you full of beer whenever your up to it. we've also got lots of literature and movies for you to borrow for your downtime. give a call. take care.

I might head down there with ya. are you driving?

Went and solo-aided Iron Horse and Steel Monkey on Friday. Both routes were super-fun. Iron Horse was much easier than I had anticipated and proabaly doesn't deserve the C2 rating. Thanks again for the beta folks, good Index fun

wow, that was instant cc.com aid beta. Haven't done the steel monkey, i'll have to go give it a try. thanks for all the killer beta folks. back to index.

I've been doing some very wet aid cragging on the lower town wall at Index, some solo, some not. I'm wanting to expand on the aid routes on the lower wall and am in need of beta. I heard that Iron Horse goes clean at C2, is this true, does it go through the roofs or to the first anchor only? Does the first pitch (A2) of ten percent meterological vinculation go clean, at what? Finally, is the 5.9 on the Narrow Arrow Overhang Direct first pitch mandatory, or can I aid through it? thanks for any info you can give.