retired

Free soloing is such a personal expierence that a poll about doing it is pointless and expressing your feelings probably useless for anyone else. I used to free solo a bit, usually well under my leading ability and only when it felt perfectly right to be doing it. soloed karate crack at Smith in like 82 but only after backing off the first few moves mabey 5 or 6 times...it just didn't feel right. When it did the climb felt like 5.6 and falling never entered my mind, it was one of the best climbing highs I had ever expierenced. shortly afterward i decided to free solo onsite a seldom climbed route Bills Flake, also at Smith and another 10a. I climbed a lot of hand cracks in those days and figured there was no way I could fall out of a 10a. I launched up and it quickly became apparant this was no easy hand crack. It became more like fist and I had done moves i knew were irreversible. I later learned it's more like 10c. I pulled thru but it was shakey and I felt like I had done a very foolish thing, death or severe injury could have occured for very little gain. Instead of the elation after karate i felt a little shame and toned my free soling down a few grades if at all afterwards. That said there is no feeling like the rush of going ropeless, it is a very good drug indeed and addictive. So watch out and know how to downclimb well, that skill saved my bacon more than once.

Humor My friend paul wearing his favorite spotted owl I'd like to add that none of my shots have been photoshopped or altered, just camera positioning.

I've never posted a photo in my message before...hope it works, scenic: december sunset from smithy

Robert, I'm in the same boat. I was slammed into my windsurfing board shoulder first in July, thought it was fractured but carried on with multiple climbing trips after the initail x-rays were negative. It hurts but it's getting better. I had a mri, may have it scoped after returning from el Potero in early Jan. Post what you decide to do...I'm a bit reluctant since I'm still doing what I always do and you just never know even with the least invasive surgery.

I'll stop using tape when they peel it from my cold, dead bony, girlie hands

Guess I'm a bit too defensive. I have had mixed emotions about the whole guide book project from the beginning but once involved tried to put out the best product possible....and still working toward that end. Haven't even checked out the Rouge book yet,and my only Hornblower expierence was the Admiral (must have missed out on the porn star)I was only involved with the Williamette edition, believe me that was enough. I have a great respect for Greg for taking on such a huge project.

I'm certainly not as sharp as the razor wit Doctor and don't get it. I guess if you're talking about blowing my own horn or something I will explain my intent is just to let a # of folks who earlier expressed interest know that my sideline as a book dealer is going to be both limited and brief, now off to Smith for the sun is out and I'm in.

I previously posted about selling a few of these guidebooks which I co-authored, and had a pretty good response. I have about 10 books left and before sending them back to Greg thought I'd post one more time to see if anyone want to purchase one from the horse's mouth or other end (you make the call) p.m. or email me in the next week or so if you're interested. Jim Anglin

I gave him a piece of my mind by getting the timberline midweek... only 199 bucks and turns to unrestricted after march 31. I know it's timberline but hell Meadows gets chewed up so quickly with the hoards of 4x4's that I'll notch it down this year. Besides it's the first place i ever skied and that's made it a special place.

I also have a Metolius double with fly. It is the most stable, comfortable portaledge I've ever expierenced, which is limited but includes about 4 models. The big drawback is of course the weight. You package up the ledge and fly with the beefy haul sacks and it feels like 25 lbs to me???have never weighed it but you will argue against being the one to carry it down. If you are over 175lb the pika will scare you, my friend who has one, describes some bucking bronc sessions setting it up. I've spent a couple nights in a hammock but can't say I've ever slept in one...save your money. Jim

Perhaps, but with climbing if I'm not smileing, at least after the lead is over, I go home...or want to! Smileing now, Jim

I won't list his name without getting his o.k. first but he works with Chip...or Chip works with him. The routes went up in the last two years, at least two of them I think. He's been trying to get me out there and this little thread is just enough to do it.

Yeah Joseph I 've been leaving traces for a long time and my protection bolts placed number in high hundreds, but I've never placed one where any kind of natural pro could be used and the majority have been hand drilled on lead, (I have crossed over to the dark side in my old age however)I've tried to always ask myself if a route really needed to go where I envisioned and changed my m.o. from putting up death runouts to putting up routes where a competent climber won't die on a bad day I do disagree and think folks get way to serious about little issues involving climbing, there are true problems in the world, a few extra bolts on Steins Pillar isn't one of them. Waren Harding was always a bigger hero to me than Robbins.

A good friend has added another couple very sporty (from what I hear) lines on Steins the last couple years. I did the Northface 25 years ago and couldn't believe what I was clipping, good on ya Chip for replacing those time bombs. I really don't know why anyone would be outraged about some nice bolted routes,as long as you aren't bolting protectable cracks, hell it's just monkeyface up in the woods. Look forward to jumping on the new rigs soon. See it's all just climbing from bouldering to big walls, climb trad climb sport, climb both just remember this is all about fun. As for the fixed rope, I'd check it out and if it looks abandoned clean it and make a rug. Jim

Oh and that first bolt up on Barad Dur is a retrobolt.

Sorry guys my comment was made with tongue firmly in cheek, just have been away awhile and didn't realize someone really needed info. Wolf rock is the reputed largest monolith in Oregon and has the most new route potential of any crag I've climbed at in the state. The sport arch is just a small example of what could happen there. Wolf was until the early to mid 90's a trad area where what few bolts existed were put in on lead. This ethic was thrown out the window with the first rap bolted sport routes in the early to mid 90's Myself and few friends added a few of our own when we discovered our old scarey crag had it's cherry popped so to speak. Now it's just kind of sitting in limbo with acres of good rock and even more acres of choss. will be interesting to see if new route activity picks up with the release of the guide. Great place, respect it and have your fun either from the top down of the bottom up. If you put up any new stuff let me know I'll pass the info along. Jim

wow! that took awhile to get thru. I'd like to say that I can see valid points in most everyones posts and would also like to mention how you can isolate yourself and your reality when you focus on just one climbing area, my advice... ROAD TRIP! Just back from a month of climbing and ready to go again. Maybe I'll see you out at Beacon on Sunday and wittness for myself what all the fuss is about. The dark tower becons me...or is it Beacons me. Climbers are sure never lacking from a lack of oppinion, are they? Jim

Howdy, I became involved with the latested edition of the Western Oregon climbing guide covering the Willamette area. The Menagerie section was based from my manuscript and I did many edits to ensure an accurate product. Alas all did not come to pass as expected and numerous small and not so small errors appeared in the printed book. I have typed up a correction page and will email it out to anyone who may have already purchased the book. You can email me at jimfunhog@yahoo.com If you want to purchase a book I have a few left for sale and will include a printed page of the corrections with these books. the price is 20 bucks with another 3 for shipping if you would like it mailed out. Good climbing and think twice about ever getting involved with guidebook writing, it's a pain not nearly as fun as putting up the routes. Jim

I'm home. My fingers are so thrased it hurts to type but ignorning pain as usual I will be typing up a list of corrections for the above discussed guidebook...could take awhile;-) If you want a guide NOW! Send me 23 bucks (cash, check or moneyorder) and I'll send the guide out when I recieved the green, with a list of corrections included. If you would like to hook up for the exchange and maybe even lead my sorry butt up some route that could be arranged too. If fast gratification is your style my address is: Jim Anglin P.O. Box 1665 White Salmon WA. 98672 509-493-4218. If meeting some other way seemes preferable call, email or pm me at this site and we'll talk. I'll try and contact everyone who previouly expressed interest but if you want the guide mailed you can jump the gun and just mail the check. Bill, yes we will have to keep our eyes out for someone meeting that description, maybe talk Joseph into retiring to write guidebooks. Jim

Well I can now comment on how the guide looks since I have a case of them in my van. It sucks...but not too bad. lots of errors in my section on the menagerie that I had edited out previously. Greg told me that the publishers hard drive crashed and they had to use a previous edit??? That said there is still a ton of good info and I will type up a correction sheet for my portion that will be sent out with the books from me. there are an embarressing number of photos of me in the book but I had nothing to do with the choices...just gave Greg all my slides to pick from and got punked, sort of. Still on a road trip (tons of great climbing, Yosemite, Red Rocks, Owens River, and next J.T. before heading home next week. I should be home by the 13th and will contact all that expressed interest in the book. Hope to meet up personally for the exchange (maybe a weekend at Smith) with as many as possible (save shipping costs) so I hear winter has arrived up there? It's 101 where I'm hanging out today (good thing since I need some rest days). See you soon. Jim

Not sure how to contact him but Bill soule has put up many trad (and I mean no bolts even for anchors) routes there.

Joseph, that is the very route I speak of..a very fun lead, have you done it? Mr Blowboarder, I will have to check out some of the other choss piles you describe, but man you should have seen the choss I was on today! Thanks miss bird for pointing out the dissin goin on... some of it blows right past me without adhering these days. I love to frame up Mt. Hood in the center of the main corridor while catching the last rays of the day on a ledge playing the didge...this is of course mid week with the only company those ancient spirts you have to slow down enough to hear. Maybe even a few old mazama spirits floatin around.

It's actually called horsethief butte and despite what has been perviously posted it's one of my favorite places in the world. 30 years ago I was one of those helmet cladded Mazamas that people love to hate but now I'm just a helmet claded old dude still climbing after all these years. I really like the bouldering there and there even exists an 11a almost sport route (small nuts needed at the start and small cams for a top anchor) if you can find it. If you hear a didgerido while exploring the maze of rock track it down and I'll show you some cool problems and the bolted route too.

WTF they have arrows at the gym! Jesus I hope they don't discover spray paint. Been some scratching going on at horsethief too. Keep it up and the whole area will close to climbing. I wouldn't advertise this to a Beacon ranger. keep it among ourselves. Peer pressure and hard.

I've got to ask...No helmet right? In the future? Just curious and glad you're making a fast and complete recovery. Jim