retired

First trip to beacon in 77 sent my buddy up wrong gull with a set of hexes...thought it was right gull. He led it telling me all the way up it can't be 5.7

I wouldn't call Turkey an over grown lawn turd at the base,it might take offense and fall over on you. Powderhound go get it... just trying to let you know what you might be getting youself into. also you should inquire about the gate across 850 it's usually locked until July 31 Oh and one other thing, this hasn't been an old aid line since 1978

Are you really sure you want to find the Turkey Monster?

I was contacted a few years ago by Ben Ruef concerning the menagerie. I responded as I always did with anyone seeking Menagerie info and sent him my manuscript. He did mention there may be some sort of book project in the works but it was along time ago and I kind of forgot the whole thing. Looks like they completed the project. Should be intresting to see what they have done, since I worked so closely with Greg Orton doing maps, topos and numerous edits and there were still errors to the point that we had to do a 2nd edition. These lads with nothing except my orignal maunscript to guide them probably don't have a chance of doing a good job...but I don't know since I haven't seen the book and will more than likley not be buying one. so many guidebooks all of sudden. My info provided only covered the Menagerie which seems to be a very small part of this ambitious looking project. Jim

If you read carefully you willnotice it says I chopped all BUT the placements close to the originals. It's coming back to me now, His name was Mark and we actually called him the bosh cowboy...this was before I owned a bosh. we're talking a 5.6 route here BTW and the originals bolts upgraded to 3/8 would have been quite adequate.

Tyler, it was a dood from Sweet home, we used to call him the mad bolter. the santiam pinnacle used to be a hairy litle climb with about 4 quarter inchers protecting the pitch. It got retro bolted and I chopped all but the placements close to the originals. the bolts grew back and I left the area. see you tuesday

Yes a lot more errors were found that's why a quick 2nd edition was released. I can handle exchanging or another option Greg suggested if you p.m. me. I may have to wait to take any action until after returning from Yosemite around the 1st of June (leaving Tuesday). any books that I personally sold I'll take care of if an exchange is requested but if you purchased it elsewhere contact Greg directly. The whole 1st edition was just a bummer on many levels. I'm pleased with the 2nd. Jim

If you want to talk to Greg about exchanging the 1st edition for the 2nd here is a link to contact him directly http://www.climbsworegon.com/GUIDE/climbing_guide.htm click on the Greg link and email him

I would contact Greg directly and see what he has to say http://www.climbsworegon.com/GUIDE/climbing_guide.htm this address will give you a link to contact Greg. I know he wants to do the right thing. The majority of the errors were in my Menagerie section, the other sections were pretty clean.

I sold a # of these books out of this area of the forum before learning there would be a new edition released due to excessive errors. It was Greg Ortons personal decision to do this and believe me it cost him big bucks to do so. If anyone wants to exchange the original book for the new eddition contact me by p.m. and I'll find out from Greg how he wants to handle it. I've got 20 of the new edition to sell if a few of you want it. I've checked it out pretty throughly and it looks great. same deal 20 bucks plus 2 bucks shipping and handling. My personal decision to to hang on to the first editon for pack use and save the other for the house. Jim Anglin

This book was released late last summer but for myself and the other co-authors it was a dissapointment. There were many errors that had been previoulsy editied out but somehow made it into the final book. To Greg Ortons credit when he learned the quanity of the errors he pulled the books from the shelves at great personal expense. Now the next editon is out and my first quick look shows a much improved product that I now can feel proud of. I had Greg send me 20 copies and if anyone here would like one I'm selling them for the 20 dollar cost plus 2 bucks shipping and handling. p.m. me if you may be interested but it will have to happen soon since I leave for a couple weeks in The Valley May 16. happy climbing Jim

Good luck with your recovery, you attitude seems great and attitude is everything. You asked about others who have come back, here's my story I fractured C-6 in a head plant skiing accident in 99. Had surgery to fuse 5 to 7 with the vetebral body of c-6 replaced with bone from my illiac crest. Had a cool Aussie surgeon who put a couple extra screws in the plate cause he knew I wanted to be active ASAP. Healed quickly and actually went on a climbing trip to the stronghold (which had already been planned) 7 weeks post op. Obviously I didn't lead and kept things moderate on the trip but was up to full speed in about 4 months. Heal like an animal..which means do as much as they'll let you as soon as you can.

I made a coat rack from a board I found in the pile. it had the names Gary & Dave "47" carved in it. The rack part was from a single point antler I found at the base

I believe Layedback is being modest when he doesn't mention that he probably has more time on the rock at skinners than anyone I know and has been climbing there well over a decade. I'm also sure he's not driving angles in 4th right. We're talking the choss way over on the right. The area is after all a quarry and was manufactured by pulling the rock away with cables, that and not blasting is the only reason folks are able to climb there today. I've never seen a knifeblade leave a true scar anyway. I remember a funny episode at skinners a couple decades back when local Mike Wonder thought a dangerous situation was developing and recieved premission form the city of Eugene to remove the offending rock. Cables were rigged and the column did fall and so did the one next to it and the next one over too. By the time the carnage ended my favorite route crack a no go was a true no go. Skinners butte has seen a hell of lot worse abuse than a knifeblade wound wher no one free climbs anyway. don't let em get to you layedback...you after all have the hammer in your hand...see you saturday bro

I was caught in a small sluff while skiing Meadows Friday. took a little break below cliffs heading to yoda bowl to size up conditions in the bowl and the cliff released above me. Went over my head and took me about 15 feet, had me hyper ventillating like a junior high kid on his first date. I wasn't poaching either the private reserve had just been opened and it was our second pass thru. first time in 30 years of skiing

Just by there today and it's over for this cycle. It's just high enough ot be above the inversion, it's dry...of course that may suit you just fine, John.

If I still had my ice gear and wasn't so at peace with myself i'd be gettin on some of that ice in the gorge. It's frozen up and getting thicker every day. of course the 60 mph e. wind gusts may blast you right off your points but I'm surprised there hasn't been more posted about it.

It was starting to look good on Monday, haven't been up since but I'm sure it hasn't been above freezing all week.

It has been rumoured that bubbas goes clean but you'd have to clean my pants out if didn't tap something in going over the big roof, and plus I have lifetime rights to nail the sucker. It used to be dangerous because of poor belay anchors but they are all beefy now. On air to spare some of the orignal rivets and even one or two concrete nails (can't remember how many) would be highly suspect. I do love freaking out some of the sport climbers, others just don't have a clue. Last time up bubbas my wife was at the overlook watching and overheard a converstaion...we were being dissed since it goes free at 11c??? yeah right!

wow, weed wacker wire works wonderfully, whoopie!

I thought so!

Here is where I could go off about how much harder (or just more dangerous) these routes where before sprouting all the fatties...but I won't. How about Sands of time on the monument, Palo Verde Mesa Verde wall, Air to Spare Christian Brothers, or for a real thrill Soft Shoe Ballet on the PLW, looking down at the pointed flake under your bottom will pucker it for sure... or just start nailing up any old thing without bolts.

Had my ass handed to me yesterday trying to keep up with a telebabe...of course she's an x warren miller star and she does the same thing when we climb, kind of cool to be the weaker sex

thanks for the tip...I'll have a wack at my weed in the morning.

a friend just gave me a blue camalot with a broken trigger wire, where can you get a replacement?