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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. I spoke with Don at SMC this morning. A number of products were dropped when the company changed hands and then moved from Seattle to Ferndale, WA. Rigid crampons and pitons were two of the products that were discontinued. There was never an issue with strength on the shallow angle pitons...no documented design/strength issues, no industry service warnings and no recalls. The last pitons from earlier production were sold from the Ferndale plant. Production of shallow angles (along with all the chrome/moly angle SMC pitons) was stopped for simple economic reasons. (I would suspect production stopped when the last US Army contact was completed) SMC intends to restart production of shallow angles again in 2009. You can bet they won't be selling for $2.50 each.
  2. I left you a PM on Dec 20 and said I'd take them @ $300 and left contact info. You never got back to me and then recently deleted yourself from the PM. I've since bought another pair.
  3. Economy must be tough @ CC.com Trangos are gone.
  4. Shallow angles are a good option over a LA. The SA offers similar sizes, generally higher holding power and less weight. Same reason guys like Twight, Blanchard and Takada suggest shallow angles are still worth hunting down. One man's suggestion for alpine climbing: "SMC shallow angles, if you can find them. Pika is making them, but, I like the originals, as you could get them in long or short (1 each is nice). Lighter and more springy than lost arrows, similar size range (can drive in short and tie off, or to the hilt). Can be a bummer to clean."
  5. Bought a pair myself today. Both pair were new and are Salewa, Messner, scissor, step ins. Little old school these days, but easy to adjust and a good crampon that climbs extremely well.
  6. These are all new SMC angles and shallow angles. The shallow angles haven't been available in years and are still in high demand if you need pins. SMC didn't make a knife blade. Chris, good to meet you and thanks! PS his other gear are great deals as well.
  7. Depends on what you want, "trigger" or second grip. A couple of other threads here showing both options people have added. Here is what I use, a Grivel slider cut down for a second grip much like my Nomic. Super solid fit and didn't have to cut anything on the tool. FYI, using a single trigger is a good way to tear a finger tendon if it isn't set up correctly, as is too using too wide of a "trigger" separating the fingers too much in the hand. More here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/850660/Searchpage/1/Main/39259/Words/trigger/Search/true/Re_Viper_Strike_on_Quarks#Post850660
  8. I'm still waiting as AKice never answered me back??
  9. "FWIW I wear a 11.5 street shoe and all the men's stuff fits me. Rock shoes I wear tight. Mtn boots with light soxs." A 8.5/9 aint going to do it in any of my boots, sorry.
  10. Sure...$115 plus shipping.
  11. Skookum Falls...has to one of the best moderate climbs in the state. And less than an hr drive from my door step. Gotta love it Last year at the end of the cold snap. Ramp on top of the first pitch of the climb above (there are three Skookums) in typical snowed up condition. Starting the second.. Kevin?
  12. Wanted to get a list up. Pictures to follow as people ask and I have time. FWIW I wear a 11.5 street shoe and all the men's stuff fits me. Rock shoes I wear tight. Mtn boots with light soxs. All the clothing fits as well @ 6'1" and 200#. I typically run between a Lg and an XL depending on manufature. Ladies stuff sizes as listed and I have no clue You pay the shipping or pick it up in Isssaquah. I'll add more in the next week or so as I dig it out. Most of the climbing gear came from a few years when I wasn't doing much, so it saw little or no use. Prefer to do this through Pay Pal. Send me a PM if you have questions. Vasque Ice 9000 dbl boots size 11.5. One winter/spring season in Canada. Newest model. (boot since discontinued by Vasque) Excellent condition. Very warm and reasonably lwt boots! -sold- Grivel Airtech Evo 48cm tools, hammer and adze. Very clean, used a couple of weekends this fall. Again excellent condition. They come with new Grivel leashes. $225. Petzl Dart side lock spurs, new, $30.00 (rear heel piece only, bolt them right on) Boreal, Ninja slipper, green, new size 36.5 $20 SCARPA FRENEY size 45, new, original blue suede model, rigid sole. LWT rigid mixed or ice boot. Takes clip on 'pons. $75 Spotiva, early model Trango, great alpine rock or wall boot. Size is 45.5 -sold- Black Diamond 50cm X tool adze with a classic "zero" alpine pick. Like new $60. Honed and ready! Chouinard Bent gate biners, 13 of them, lightly used, $50 Sportiva Mythos, new, purple, size 43.5, id marked with a black marker on pull tab. $65.00 Scarpa Marathon, one indoor gym session, basically new, 10.5? some where around that...$50 Sportiva Syncro, new, white, size 44 $70. Awesome trad shoe. Sportive approach shoe, little use, couple of day trips, 46, $40. Kyland, climbing/approach shoe, size 46, worn around the house and yard, basically new $40 Black Diamond rope bag/bucket pack. new $25 Marmont Femme Nikita pack, small 30/35liter? new $50 (retail was originally $200) New England 10.5 x 60m red, new, never uncoiled $125. North Face GoreTex ltw mtn Jacket, Large, worn a couple of weekends ice climbing. Tiny bit of dirt in places but other wise like new. $125. ($275 jacket new) Bright Yellow and black. North Face Slick Rock tent, new, $150. MSR bug hut2 tent new, $50 Sundog, euro style alpine climbing pack, 30L, med (too short for me) great shape, blue and purple. $40 http://standingwave.org/albums/rehad/acb.sized.jpg' alt='acb.sized.jpg'> Camelback water bag packs...black insulated, very basic. $10 each. Zipp 303s Shimano or Campy hubs, your choice. One set dimpled, $1000 one set non dimpled $700 San Marco Gel Tri saddle, well used, but lots of life left, $20 Louis Garneau Chrono helmet, LG, silver. Some "dings" (my puppy decided it was her chew toy) on the back rear of the foam/head band, does not affect fit or safety of helmet. And not visable. I used it for two more seasons with no issues what so ever) $40. SRAM, aero bar carbon break levers, new, $60
  13. PM sent
  14. Looks awesome! EWR has a nice wool one out now as well. http://www.earthwindandrider.com/home.php?cat=210
  15. After seeing John Frieh's great TR and reading Becky's route description I figured "just how hard could it be @ 40 degrees and 5.7?" Like most of us here I would suspect. Ross sez of his ski decent in May.... Expect some 55+ degree snow climbing early in the season, short bits of WI2+/3 and finaly 2 pitches, with not a lot of pro, of solid 5.7 rock at the top of the route, in the best conditions, and you'll be better prepared for what you actually find.
  16. Climbing conditions late Nov Skiing conditions late May A lot of rock on the entrance in Nov. I'm with Craig, it is pretty narrow. Ross still skied the entire gully. Places I couldn't get two feet side by side on ice while climbing it. Be more interetsing to hear Craig's and Daniel's take on the lead.
  17. Climbing conditions late Nov Sskiing conditions late May I'm with Craig, it is pretty narrow. Ross still skied the entire gully. Places I couldn't get two feet side by side on ice while climbing it. Be more interetsing to hear Craig's and Daniel's take on the lead.
  18. Nice solo and taking nothing away from Coldirons climb I'll answer for the the M5 comment. Top pic is one taken two days before our climb. The second from Coldirons's, 7 days later after a warm wet week and then a hard freeze. John Frieh mentioned to me from his climb, "The M5 is easy too... more like M4." On our ascent I found two places got my attention while following, the beginning and the end of the upper headwall gully because of the lack of ice. In between those two points something more like WI 2+ or 3 and M3. Mixed grades are suppose to relate to rock. M3 being 5.7, M4 being 5.8 and M5 being 5.9. Obviously top roped, parts of it felt like 5.9 or M5 to me. Pro wasn't that easy to attain on our ascent and most that lead at a 5.7 level would have had their hands full in the upper gully. Note the pic of the the Patagonia DAS parka being climbed in? I also climbed the last bit in by Puff belay parka. Not something I generally do even in Canada. Alpine is all about getting the "right" conditions. In the right conditions this thing was skied on tele boards. These are from the upper gully two days apart. starting.. Middle.. From the previous post.. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/853017/1 "If you read Becky's guide this climb is rated a II 5.7 and 40 degrees. A 5.7 leader would be well out of his element on this one in similar late fall conditions. M4 or M5? The climbing was pretty sustained and poorly protected in the last, long, two pitches and harder than any M5 I have done at Hafner. Not all that much for pro, which most will want. Bring some thin pins. And a good bit steeper over all than the 40 degrees Becky has listed. It is a great climb however and more like something from Chamonix than what you'd expect to find in the NW. To be fair any mixed alpine route will change almost daily depending on conditions."
  19. Thanks for the quick shipping!
  20. Specifically looking for a first generation Cobra hammer or adze and a straight shaft Black Profit hammer. PM on what you have and how much you want for it. Thanks!
  21. Pictures or name and size of the BD tools?
  22. Dane

    ???

    The basic design has been around for over 20 years now. Long before BD up dated it. I doubt it will be going away soon.
  23. PM on the Darts
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