Dane

Good to hear on both counts!! Congrads to the Bride and Groom!!!!! Live long and prosper

I've used Quarks with the grip rest a lot and Nomics some over the last few winters. As you might imagine the Quarks plunge better than the Nomics But either work well enough. Even in places you might not imagine they would. Have to admit if I really want a plunging tool for a particular climb (can't imagine what that climb would be these days) I prefer a fairly straight shafted axe. But seldom do I set one aside for a climb now. But this thing plunges about as good as anything out there. But then most anything will these days! By the time the grip rest becomes a hinderence to inserting the shaft there is generally enough stability in the snow pack to hold a pick. There was a time when I thought these would be terrible for plunging. Then Twight and crew used them on the Solvak route on Denali. Had my brain pried open to rethink alpine tools from that climb. Then you start seeing Nomics on all sorts of terrain where a hammer/adze and a tool that plunges would seem to be required but really isn't. Funny what you will do (or give up) to use a tool that climbs well. I don't find umbilicals a big issue plunging...if I did (haven't yet) I'd just unclip from the bottom of the axe. Nomics on 50 degee snow Shooting Gallery, Andromeda, Canada Jon Walsh's photos of Caroline George. North Gully, Mt. Hunter, AK http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009/05/mt-hunter.html

I aint buying the rope drag bit as a reason for skinny ropes. I do believe as ropes have gotten longer, climbers have wanted lighter (skinnier) ropes for good reason. Standard rope lengths in the early '70s were 150'. By the late '70s 165' or 50m were more common but certainly not the norm even by the early '90s. I've done a few .12s on bolts and many more trad .11s and a few 12s. Most if not all on 10.5mm or 11mm x 150 ropes with the odd 165'/50m rope thrown in. Want to drop weight? Either take less pro or cowboy up and buy some of the super light biners or both. While I have indeed bitched about the weight of the rope at the end of a pitch and the resulting rope drag, neither were a reason for failure. I might rethink that if i was using a 70m x 10.5mm Having climbed the last couple of seasons on super skinny and long ropes (60m & 70m) I am really concerned about the extra stretch that happens on the skinniest ropes. I also don't think that extra dynamic ability in the rope is a big issue on ice or bad pro when you have screamers/load limiters that will do much more for your safety and keeping gear in place. The extra rope stretch how ever can be dangerious as I saw catching a 30' fall on ice this winter. It was that extra 7 to 10 feet of stretch that caused the injury. I use a 10.5 or a 11m x 50m (but a 150' would work as well) for cragging. 7.8s twins on ice generally and a thin 9mm single for alpine. I still see no reason for a 70m rope out side of ice climbing unless you have some weird project/climb that actually has a 210' pitch that shouldn't/can't be broken into smaller sections. Few climbs that a 200+ rope will make the ascent faster. Although I can see times for a shorter than 150' rope. Not many here freeing things like the Salathe headwall at one go. CM: "How’s that monster crux pitch on the headwall?" Alex Honnold" "The link-up is exactly 200 ft. I lead it on a 60meter rope once and had to untie just to walk across to Long Ledge (the top of the headwall).....It has rest stances that I milked as long as I could. So it took a long time." My though is skinny and super long ropes are a great marketing program easily sold to guys that will never take advantage of them or more importantly never need to. Bottom line for Rad? Get some super light weight hardware, biners, harness and drop some body weight for your project. Rope is the last place I'd go looking for a weight advanatge.

I don't think anyone is questioning Alan's abilities, certainly not me. I think most of us are saying that you (anyone?) would be better served with adding a grip rest to both of your Aztars and climbing totally leashless. Umbilicals are another question. But they seem to have become the norm for hard alpine. The newest screws are incredibly fast to place FWIW. From the link John provided..dated 2/02/2007 Be interesting to hear what Marko is using now?

Alpine climbing is all about conditions. Recognizing that fact I have tried to put the three North ridges of Rainier into perspective from my own climbs. I found Curtis to be a rubble pile and thankfully short. Easy to get on and off of. Liberty always a long slog to get there. Surprisingly scary/difficult on the top. And easy enough but long up and over the mountain either down the Emmons or thorugh Paradise. Ptarmigan has always been an adventure. Beautiful walk in through Mowich lake, awesome moderate technical climbing in cold hard conditions late in the fall and fun trips traversing the mountain going out through Paradise. What say you for comparisons? Ratings are from Becky's guide and climber's comments on difficulties found on more recent ascents. Curtis Ridge: "climbing" starts around 10K. Breaks out on the snow fields up high at just past 12K. Line is funky, weaving in and around snow fields to avoid the terrible rock bands. Certainly nothing hard by modern standards in snowed up conditions if you take the easiest lines. M5 or harder if you start climbing rock. If you can call it rock? Climbing off the west side and onto the edge of Willis Wall makes it much easier. Best done with lots of snow and cold weather. Rock fall can be serious. We found the hardest climbing (which was the route finding) low on the ridge, below the "second step". Easy to get back on the Emmons for the descent. Bivy is typically around 10K or just a bit above. IV with some mixed/rock 2000' and a long walk to the summit. Liberty Ridge: "climbing" starts at the base of the ridge at just under 9000' getting to Thumb Rock at 10,700'. Thumb Rock is the typical bivy site. The crux seems to be turning the Black pyramid 12000k (serious rock fall hazard below it all the way to the Carbon) and getting past the bergshrund at 13.5k. It has been skied and not unusual for people to decend Liberty in decent conditions. Snow conditions up high after the BPO always worry me. Obviously the longest climb of the three ridges but most will climb togetehr or unroped to the bivy at 10,700. III (IV if icy) 50 degree snow or ice 4000' (3000?) But tops out on a summit. Ptarmigan: climbing starts at 10,000' and a great bivy site. The crux will be how you get around the last rock buttress at 12,000 and the final ice cliff to gain Liberty Cap Glacier at 12,500. The 2500' of technical terrain can be as steep as 55/60 degree snow and ice but most of it is below 50. Mixed or rock if you choose the west side gully exits. III or IV 55 degree snow or ice / mixed. Rock fall can be a problem if it gets warm. (Personally I think this is the steepest ridge line of climbing) 2500' and a good walk to any summit of Rainier. As a added note, Thermogenisis, between Willis Wall and Libery Ridge, in good conditions, is also worth of inclusion. Disregarding the obvious additional objective danger down low and climbing in Liberty's slide path on the entire route. With no ridge bivy it is more elevation gain in one day and a bit mindless for kicking steps. 3500' My vote as the "best" route would be Ptarmigan. Consistantly steep climbing. The technical crux up high. With a reasonable level of objective hazard in good conditions and the most beautiful and may be the shortest approach (least effort anyway) coming up through Spray Park from Mowich Lake.

The Quark grip rest can be made to fit many different tools. I use one, cut down, as a flipable rest on my Grivel Evo tools. Buy 3 and use the first one to figure it out incase you have to cut it up. With all respect to Alan but why would anyone want a half leashed, half leashless tool set up. Seems a BIG step back ward IMO. I think you'd be better served with a complete set of leashless.

Nicely done... Of the three north ridges I thought Ptarmigan was the best climb. Be fun though to do them all in the same month to make a better comparison. We did Liberty in late June, Curtis in mid July, Ptarmigan in early Oct. So not the best comparison for conditions.

Ya, never would have believed the conditions from this weekend on Ptarmigan by the amount of snow supposedly at Mowich lake.... Looks like it will be a quick season for the north side routes before the neve is gone.

I was told by the Rangers that there was 8' of snow on Mowich lake at the momnet.

http://www.ramutasresoles.com/ From John's web site... Since 1945, we've provided the highest levels of service and quality. From dress shoes to ballet to technical rock climbing, we cover nearly all specialty niches as well as the day to day work shoes that keep the feet of the busiest people moving. We began repairing rock shoes in 1995 when the owner, John Ramuta, began climbing. John felt he could do a great job of repairing his own climbing shoes out of his family owned shop. After experimentation with bonding methods and cements, along with rigourous testing by local climbers, John has perfected the art of resoling! The praises were high and Ramuta's Resoles was born. Ramuta's Resoles knows first hand what gear failure can mean during a crucial climb. Attention to detail is important to us. It's the only way we can assure there won't be problems once your shoes are back in action. We guarantee all of our work! "You don't climb 5.13 in your 3rd decade in the sport without figuring out where the real advantages lie. Putting John Ramuta's work between me and the smallest edges and most desperate smears is one of the best moves that I've come up with over the years!" - Bryan Burdo :: Northwest Premier Climber and Climbing Author Drop off Locations We will still be providing service to Kitsap, Seattle and Redmond Vertical Worlds.. They will ship to us the first and third Monday of every month.

Screw that! Ramuta is actually a THIRD generation Seattle cobbler. (and I bet one of the very few) Ramuta does a perfect job every time and charges less that what is is worth. My thought is we are still lucky Ramuta has decided to continue resoling shoes. Send them to Montana and support a local with some talent, who actually uses his own product.

Good to hear it wasn't worse. Glad you are OK and out. Frieh has been extremely lucky in the last year. Most people get a serious clue with the first fall on ice Went in for surgery myself 364 days ago today after a fall on rock. Check this out.. first page and my post on 5/05/09 should sum it up nicely. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/806791/I_fall_down#Post806791 FWIW it isn't the steep stuff that bothers me now....just the obvious fact and somehow I missed it..."you could actually get killed doing this shit". How I justify (or don't bother) that risk to myself now is what I find interesting. That thought (you could die) comes up now at the weirdest places on climbs. I'm slowly getting back to the "I can't die" mind set of my buddy John F.

The Corsa gets mixed reviews, some saying it is too light. I have not used it. I do however have a Petzl Sno Racer which I like for easy routes on Rainier @ 15oz and a steel head. I also use the Grivel Air Tech Evo that will climb most anything short of winter water ice. Again with a steel head @ 16oz. Either works well if you can get by with a short axe. I use trekking poles to compliment them on easier ground. Good review of several light weight axes including the Corsa and a similar model from Grivel....here: http://www.sierradescents.com/reviews/axes/camp-usa/corsa.html I'm pretty old school. Self arrest is a priority of course and I think the super light axes will work fine for that. But I also find I use the lwt axes more chopping steps in lwt boots or runners to get across hardened early morning or late season snow fields. In those conditions a little more head weight and a steel adze and pick are reassuring. Although following the track up Dissappointment Clever with a Corsa might well make me a believer.

Looks to be a decent rig, they just need to cut it in half

Lets back a up a bit. Alaska? If you are going above 14K on McKinley I'd think dbl boots. Foraker dbls as well, most everything else a single boot will generally due. Only problem is drying the single boots out over a long trip. Plastics are the easy choice. Newer fabric boots if you take care of them will work ok there if you are careful. Hydration and foot health management are equally improtant. Cascades? Spantik is way too much boot for everything here even if you get cold feet easily which I do. (except maybe a multiday mid winter trip on Rainier) Batura is a good winter boot in the Cascades because it is an easy boot to walk long distances in, stays dry from the outside and eliminates the need for a gaiter. It is reasonable warm but nothing really special. (I own most everything in the Sportiva boot line so the opinions aren't just conjecture on my part) But for most things that will take from one to three days, on winter climbs in the Canadian Rockies and difficult technical climbing, the "silver bullet" Evo Goretex Trango Extreme, the Batura and the Nepal Top Evo are all very good. I give the nod to the Nepal for the extra support front pointing and durability. The Trango Extreme is a bit lighter than the Nepal but also has less support and more ankle flexability. Batura is softer than the Trango in the ankle offering less support on steep ice and a bit more warmth. Nepal a big step up on both for support but harder to walk in because of it. Trango is the most fun to rock climb in and has a sticky rubber sole that you'll notice in use. Listed in the amount of warmth each offers..less to more Although I think the Batura and Nepal Evo are surprisingly pretty close warmth wise. Weight of ONE boot in a size 45. Prime 2 lb 2.7oz Trango Evo X 2 lb 4oz Batura 2 lb 8.5oz Nepal Evo 2 lb 10.4oz Spantik 2 lb 14oz for comparison older white Kolflack Ultra 2lb 10oz (avelotile liner) The Spantik is a much higher volume boot (by half again) than the old Kolfach...and is the warmest boot I have ever used. It is a huge boot! Flexibility? It is stiff in every way. The Spantik might well be better used as a ice climbing or ski boot than a alpine climbing boot if you have a choice. For a rigid soled boot.. Love the Spantik for keeping my feet warm and on ice. My other favorite for general use is the Nepal Top Evo. If I have to walk very far the Batura is the go to boot.

What axe are you planning on using it with? Lot of very difficult routes have been done with a hammer and a axe and generally they didn't match. But there are good combos and really bad combos today.

You guys crack me up... I wonder if anyone really realises just how much motivation the CC.com crowd offers the climbing community. Sobo...that nasty gash was from climbing...in and out of the Ambulance....but stick to the story dude...no one else will ever know

Nepal Evo in a size 45 (one boot) is 2lb 10.5oz. So just bit more than the others and closer to the Batura than I would have thought. The difference between the lightest to heaviest Sportive "technical sport boots" in a PAIR of 45s is only 12.8oz. Depending on your size foot, the heavier Nepals may be well worth the extra 12.8 oz on hard ice. They are for me. For other climbs I use the Batura for extra warmth and long walks and the Tango Evo for longer walks in milder conditions.

Gregg's picture....of John Culberson on Slipstream.

Bill! That looks bad dude!!! I'm glad you are doing good enough to make the Yosemite trip...Grack is a an awesome route Have fun!

Just and update. It has been 365 days since I took this fall. I rehab'd hard for the most part of the last 12 months. Half dozen or so triathlons, as many Centuries on the bike and some climbing. Becky route on Liberty Bell by August was the first rock. I suffered after that. By late fall the North face of Observation Rock, NE Gully on Dragontail. Again I suffered. Then after the new year, Flow Reversal on the pass, Pineapple Express on Snoqualimie, all three routes on Weeping Wall, Louise, Polar Circus and Curtain Call. By the end of winter I was even leading and soloing hard ice again. Things were finally feeling normal again by late March. But sadly ice is not rock, still a gumby on pure rock. No where near 100% physically even a year later. But I aint complaining either! I really wanted to thank everyone who allowed me to tag on to their rope over the past year and get some much needed milage in. Some of you didn't realise just how much I needed the help...thanks for letting me hang out! Without your help I would not be climbing now or as far along as I am today physically. Thanks Guys! That list includes, Dave, Braydon, Craig, Rob, Jens, Brian, Jack, Josh,. ..Sobo for keeping me off the big dirt dive and Tracy for taking care of me when I couldn't walk, among other things. Big props to all of you...and for the entire CC.com crowd for all the entertainment and encouragement! Ya'll be careful out there, ya hear?

I agree. Much like the Grivel matrix tools. It may be close but looks to me like the Quark actually has more clearence over all (more curve spike to head) than the Matrix shaft. Could be wrong though. Matrix is one of the few tools I don't own so can't make a realistic comparison. Wasn't thrilled when Grivel changed to head replacement instead of the pick replacement. Nice tools none the less. How does it swing? It is still a Quark....so just like one, except a good bit lighter in the hand and I suspect lighter than the Matrix. Lighter head and swing weight is an acquired taste and may not work well for everyone or to your tastes in every ice condition. For various reasons, better tools and less physical strength, I've found my technique has changed. I generally hook eveything now instead of swing with much force.

Way to GO get some round eye, and not get chopped It's a good start!

Nice fucking tease! That might well deserve a sucker punch later in the week Sounds to me like some suffereing might have been involved by the tone of the post?

Thought some might enjoy reading of a recent trip on Slipstream. Good to see one of my past climbing partners still getting out and scaring himself May 3, 2009 http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2009/may/03/roskelley-duo-chills-out-on-icy-waterfall-climb/ Spokane climbers John and Jess Roskelley shared some quality time in a room with an incredible view last weekend during their visit to Alberta’s Columbia Icefields. The only price the father-son team paid was enduring the night at minus 10 degrees without sleeping bags huddled in a tiny snow cave on a vertical ice cliff. Cheap. “We just got caught out,” shrugged John, 60, a former Spokane County commissioner and one of America’s premier mountaineers in the 1970s and ’80s. “These things happen occasionally when you climb challenging routes.” The Roskelleys were climbing a difficult snow, ice and waterfall route known as Slipstream (IV, WI4), which leads to the 11,322-foot summit of Snow Dome in Jasper National Park. The pair had climbed Mount Everest together in 2003, when Jess, now 26, temporarily became the youngest American to climb the peak. “We thought we were fast enough to get up it in a day, but a lot of little things added up,” John said. “It’s considered one of the finest alpine routes in the Canadian Rockies and is seldom climbed because of the commitment, difficulties, and objective dangers, such as avalanche, falling ice and the massive cornice at the top, which breaks off occasionally, not to mention the very technical climbing.” Park rangers take notice when climbers log in at the Icefields Visitor Center to climb Slipstream. “We started Sunday in really good weather, but by noon it was deteriorating. Clouds came in and it started snowing and we were getting a lot of spindrift avalanches down the face burying us on our belays and slowing us up. “The ice climbing was very difficult up high and there was virtually no place to get out of the conditions. We were lucky to find a spot where we could kick out a snow cave about 200 feet from the top. It was the only place I spotted on the whole route where we could even sit down. “It was a good climb,” he said, summarizing the big picture. Pressed for more details, he said neither of them slept during the night. “We had our down coats to wear and stove to melt snow, but nothing else extra,” he said. “We sat on one pack and put our feet in the other pack and just hugged each other and shivered all night.” Fortunately, the weather cleared into a spectacular, windless, starry night. Even though the temperatures plummeted, the snowfall stopped and kept the route from getting too dangerous. Said Roskelley, “On Monday morning, the sun came up and low and behold it shined right into our cave with welcome warmth. That really helped us get moving and into our equipment and frozen boots.” The pair finished the last pitch of the climb and briefly enjoyed the stunning view under blue skies. As they were beginning their descent down the dome, toward an area of crevasses and a gully, a helicopter flew by. “We were a day late, so I knew the climbing rangers might be concerned,” Roskelley said. “I gave them a thumbs up to show we were OK, but they circled and landed anyway. “They offered us a lift out, since they were already up there flying. It was the easiest descent I’ve ever made. In five minutes we were back at the Visitor Center. It saved us five hours of trudging and two rappels.”