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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. New pair of unused Nomics. Still have protectors and hang tags. This is the newest version with hammer and ice picks and a spike on the pommel. The still sell for $300 a piece. $600 for the pair retail. Little late in the season but they just showed up here. $450 including shipping via priority mail in the USA. Pay Pal works best for me via f & f transaction.
  2. My thought originally was it is just Haston's magic fingers as well. It aint, trust me. 2 minutes with one and you'll be just as quick as Hastion appears to be with them. I am not chitting you here. It really is that easy. Was able to pick up a few wire/solid gate samples and been playing with them. Although I thought/wanted the pear solid gate versions. Used the wire/solid combo for a few days. Then today just replaced all my glacier skiing lockers with the wire/solid Twin gate version. Kinda like a Nomic..once ya try it you aren't gonna go back to something less. Here is what I think of them and the impression just keeps getting better/stronger the more I use them. http://coldthistle.blogspot.fr/2014/04/grivel-twin-gate.html I have never, ever liked lockers. Detest them truth be told. And only used them when required, sparingly at that. That is now gonna change. Lots of places I'd like an easy to use and fail safe locker beside the typical. Racking ice screws is a start. But there are others. Bad pro, short q-draws, bolts. List will get longer I suspect once I start looking around. Certainly going to change the profile of my Spartan rack for rock, ice or alpine. If you get some extra security with little weight penalty and virtually no extra hassle, why not?
  3. Didn't find a thread on these. Pardon me if there is one already and feel free to delete this one if so. Old news it seems but new to me. My impression is the new Grivel Twin gate really is the chit deserving one I think. I'm very impressed. Just as easy to use as Haston shows. No magic fingers here just really good design work. Call it a PSA.
  4. here ya go.. have fun! http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/polar-circus-route-description-photo.html
  5. And I am willing to pay your for it plus shipping http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2014/01/looking-for-ice-axe-parts-and-pieces.html thanks!
  6. Dynafit ONE size 28 - $350.. little use, very clean still have these. others are gone Plus what ever actual shipping is via US mail
  7. sold..thanks Tyler!
  8. Dynfit One PF TX...like new 28 shell $350 and the shipping cost from Issaquah wa.
  9. Solid, good qualiy ice go short. Nasty rotten ice like Raf generally climbs, go long. Situationally dependant. Really Look at a Dartwin. Intentionally the outside point is longer than the inside...everyone splays their feet some is why.
  10. You can only switch the levers not the entire heel pieces. Easy switch. Last ones I bought were around $15 each ($30 a pair) IIRC. Easy through BD customer service. BD levers on a Petzl Dartwin. If you still have the Sabers just pull them off and use 'um. Not like you'll hurt them any.
  11. New more loft or want to get back what you had? Throw it in the drier and run it on a hot cycle.
  12. Complete Lever set up? BD customer service @ 1-800. Complete heel set up? May be the same but wouldn't bet on it.
  13. $150 cash and a decent bottle of red? And I'll make a point to pick them up in person on your schedule. Might dig up a few more bucks if they are new adn unused. send me a PM if it works for you.
  14. Thanks Wayne. I am thinking it is time for another lap. I saw that people were looking at the thread. Didn't realise the pictures were gone. So thought I'd tease them with the old pictures. Need some young bucks to give me a full condition report on route before I walk in Some early Snoqualmie Love from Wayne Flow Reversal bit on the end as well.
  15. Original pictures are here: http://firstascent-dane.blogspot.com/2010/12/blue-moon-snoqualimie-mountain-central.html
  16. you can buy spare parts direct from Dynafit
  17. New unworn, size 45 $400 firm
  18. Of the two, BD heels work better and are easier to get. Been doing it for years on Petzls.
  19. La Sportiva Batura 2.0, size 45 - $400. New unworn Dynafit ONE size 28 - $350.. little use, very clean Zamberlan 6000 Eiger 45 - $300 new unworn TLT5 Performace 29.5 - like new $450 Plus what ever actual shipping is via US mail
  20. Is the road still open?
  21. Ha, ha! Cale that was funny. Trango Extreme is a pretty commmon boot on Canadian ice in warm weather. Batura and more likely the Phantom Guide when it is cold. Helps MEC sells Scarpa. New Nepal Cube is just a lighter more water proof, durable, carbon mid sole Nepal..similar upgrades as the Batura to Batura 2.0 previous. Nepal in any version is no light weight (as far as support) and in fact offers the most ankle support and less flexability of any boot mentioned in this thread. Not a lot more support in the Trangos than the Batura or Guide. All have enough to climb long sections of vertical ice. Newest Rebel Ultra has more support than the Trango by a good bit and is lighter than any of them..but not by much and not as warm as most. Pretty much like the Trango Extreme for warmth I think. May be a little warmer depending on how you fit it. Rebel Ultra is a narrow and snug boot with a very technical fit. Almost like a fruit boot as much a mtn boot I think. Not for everyone I suspect. But I would really encourage anyone of any skill level to at least try them on. I believe they will make anyone a better ice climber simply by lowering the size of your foot profile and enabling you to climb on smaller more delicate ice features that were unavailable to most previous. Me included. I still believe the Rebel Ultra is a "game changer" in technical ice foot wear. Just as the 1st ICE/Batura was almost a decade ago now. You were right ECB, Batura 2.0 version is lighter than the Trango Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz Scarpa Phantom Guide size 45 weight 2# 7.5oz La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz hope all that helps some.
  22. Price lowered on the Zero4 boots.
  23. Prices lowered on the DPS ski and Dynafit boots.
  24. Arcteryx Aphix Hoodie Lg Chili Peper (red) new $150 Arcteryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoodie Lg orange new $130. Patagonia Northwall Jacket Large, paint brush Red, like new $175. Polartec Power Shield Pro soft shell, lined with R4 fleece Patagonia Micro fleece, Med Blue new $40 Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket Size S men's Black like new $100 Outdoor Research Axiom Jacket Orange, Men's Large $130. Boots: Boreal Mutant Fruit Boots with Black Diamond Crampons Us size 12. They run a 1/2 small so you will need to need to be between a 11 and a 12 to wear these. New, $350. "Lighter weight and better fitted ICE MUTANTS are insulated with Thinsulate and are warm. This triple component ice shoe includes the modular Black Diamond RAPTOR crampon) sticky rubber randed elastic Cordura covers" La Sportiva Spantik size 45 new: $400 Dynafit Zero 4 Carbon size 28. Formed once. Skied on lightly less than one season. $300...clean! Scarpa Aveolite lace up liners. Good for most plastic double boots. $30, size 11.5. Older version but looks to be the same pattern here, but elastic in the toes, no laces. unused http://www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/MOUNTAIN-LINERS/p_10025 TRAD shoes Boreal ACE is a fully lined, medium stiff, all-around, low cut shoe equally competent climbing micro-edges, cracks and friction slabs. The ACE has probably been used to put up more hard crack climbs in Yosemite, Indian Creek and Joshua Tree than any other shoe - except maybe the BALLET GOLD. If you wear a men's 10.5 US street shoe (UK9.5) order this size for comforatable crack climbing and long routes. I you want the ACE to be "stiffer" for standing on knobs and thin edges go down 1/2 size to a UK9. Like new, USA 12 $100 plus shipping. ($139. retail) Boreal, bright blue Ballet Gold, size 10.5 UK, 44.5 Euro, minor wear on a new set of thin C4 soles by Remuta when the shoe was new and prior to climbing on the original. $50 New old stock La Sportiva Syncros (white purple laces) size 44.... $50 and shipping Arcteryx insulated Kappa Pants. Large Black $175 (new with tags) http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Pants-Shorts/Kappa-Pant#Insulated_Shell Mtn Hardware pants Ridgetop, 3/4 length, soft shell pant, $40, Large (new with tags or just new) black. Perfect summer alpine pant. Not bad as a winter pant either in mild conditions. Ridgetop pant being used at the Ice Fest, Hyalite Canyon, late Dec 2010 Blue Ice Octopus Pack, new, unused still in the original shipping bag $110.00 Hardware Life-Link Carbon Speed Lite Probe, new, in the bag, $40 Carbon Speed Light 246 Specs Total Length (246 cm or 8'1") •Pack Length is 18" •Weight 6.5 oz. •6' mark for depth gauge Petzl Meteor helmet, new, purple and silver, $60 PRICES ARE FIRM, pay pal only. New, as new, means just that..*NEW* some still with tags. PM if you are interested. I do not check here ever day but will answer PMs promptly. Pictures are available of every item on my tools blog.
  25. At the risk of not being rad... Since you have decided to start counting lets be fair and add the number in this thread: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/12/black-diamond-heel-lever-concerns_19.html Not that those numbers are anyway definative. I seem to remember others having a similar problem in the deleted thread. Hard believe I am the only one here that remembers that. BD says it is only "two". That would be 1+1. In case anyone missed remedial math. I've suggested using BD heels (because they are mostly metal compared to Grivel) on any crampon. In 2011 alone at least three times on CT. "I own 5 pairs of boots from La Sportiva and Scarpa currently. And 6 pairs of technical crampons. The crampons are from Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel. I mix and match heel pieces and toe bales on each brand to get the best fit possible" I use BD levers on Petzls because I like the levers and strap position and heel contact surfaces better. I haven't changed mine...but I have checked them. Thanks to Joe's original post. Might be a mistake suggesting anyone changing heel pieces to get a better and more reliable crampon fit. I had that happen, a mistake..being wrong before, but only "2" times. In case anyone is counting. But have to admit that is some simply amazing customer service to see a totally new heel lever design over just "two" failures. Obvouisly a full up turnip truck in Boseman these days. For heaven's sake, be sure to hold on tight.
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