gnibmilc

Consider the west ridge descent for a slightly more asthetic circumnavigation of the peak. single rope rappels to get off the N. ridge to the best bivy area. nice amble around in the park.

nice!

i was scared! for "any man's" edification, i'd say beware, you don't want to get caught above that traverse in the rain or dark. i wouldn't want to dodge rock fall during that traverse.

Lamboni, Go climb it. Then, chop it, including stations, on rappel.

it's a sport route! it's good. there is some mandatory 3/4 class scrambling that would SUCK if it were dark or wet.

that will work fine. the only thing to consider is that it will be tougher on the occasional steep stuff to keep your calfs from burning up. also, if you are going to haul lots of stuff up on your approach day, you might consider a sturdier boot to make it easier on your ankles, etc. and then use the sturdier boot for approaches. i never minded having my old La Sportiva boots along, and only had to carry them on NE Ridge of Bugaboo spire (easier climbing). check the descents for your planned routes....few of the regular routes in the bugs require you to carry your boots over, so, no penalty for bring a moderately stout pair of boots...because you are alway wearing them. Aluminum or light steel crampons are FINE.

Tim, What happened last sunday? i saw your car parked in the right place....

She'd probably kick your ass and make a rug out of you for being a punk though. Well, maybe not. She's a very nice gal and only got angry once that I recall. It was something about the laundry and tea time....Oh yeah...every evening she'd come around to the Applebee camp to collect the money for keeping the crapper clean and pointed in the right direction. it is a little bit of a hike from the hut to the campground and so she'd usually hang around for a while and have soup or tea. so one day i'd finished up climbing early and had decided that my underwear had to be washed. i'd learned years ago from a euro climber that the way to clean whites is to boil them. so i gave it a try. seemed to be working just fine until the hutgirl showed up. i chatted as best i could, but, not being much of a conversationalist, she pretty quickly turned to the pot with the rattling cover. i coached her away from the pot with some great story like this but, that just got her more interested in tea. i couldn't do anything to stop her and she removed the lid. the look on her face and the words spoken still make me cry....she left quickly. her nose is probably still crinkled up with the thoughts of previous cups of tea and soup from that pot. the underwear were really clean. the pot did have a little scum ring that only came out with a good sand scrubbing.

I give this the -award for chester-beater-post of the month oh yeah? i like following it so much after Matt, that I went back this weakend and didn't lead it and instead got scared on the 5.6+ friction pitch. friggin slab traverse moves... friggin "+" ratings... that pitch ought to be closed to climbing and roped off until they get the rating right.

HEY ONE OF YOU EAST SIDERS SHOULD GO RUN UP THIS ROUTE AND GO GET THE NEWLY FIXED WILD COUNTRY FRIEND WHICH IS STUCK IN THE TRAVERSING SECTION OF THE ROUTE JUST BEFORE THE BELAY FOR THE NERVOUS 5.6 PITCH. IT'S LIKE NEW!!! STILL MOVES AROUND IN THE PLACEMENT. I WAS IN A HURRY TO GO NAP ON THE SUMMIT AND DON'T LIKE THAT STYLE OF CAM OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE MADE AN ATTEMPT TO GET IT....

there are much worse places to go WITHOUT a partner. if the weather is nice, you'll probably find a partner or two up at the camping area there above the hut...and the hut girl will likely take pity on you and climb at least one route with you if history is any indicator! soloing the Kane route on Bugaboo Spire!!! a little rope soloing will get you up Pigeon SPire...go even if you don't get hooked up...

now that you mention it, a tyrolean off of the little 1/4 with the square nut and carbon steel ring on the summit of Chianti could be exiciting! might be better to lasso the summit block. okay, count me in.

I don't think so. Beware...micro beta: We belayed nearer to the 8" than might be suggested/implied by the Nelson guide. There is a crack that takes a green or yellow alien on the climber's right side about half way up. I had planned to go into the thing right side in, but, found left side in to work fine. The confusion for me was due to the abundance of nice features out right...I wasn't expecting the help! Don't worry, go climb the route, it's worth the work.

i didn't see too much on the rappel descent that looked too enticing. probably should bring a pair of long eyes and scope up from the snow....

Great line. Not sure about slack line set up, but, the traverse from Burgundy to Chianti (to leave a rope?) to Pernod and Chablis (?) and back up Chianti looks like the day at the pass!

Post deleted by gnibmilc

Rock n' Rattle or something like that with the slabish 11c crux? The butt shot that I posted was a little off route on the standard route up Burgandy Spire.

Climb: Chianti Spire-East Face/Rebel Yell Date of Climb: 6/20/2004 Trip Report: Matt and I waddled up to give the Rebel Yell a try and had a fun time of it. What fine weather...perfect temperature, even when the sun hid behind the occasional cloud. The climb is really very good with a good mixture of crack and rock types and great protection. We found a single set of cams to a #4 Camelot, one set of nuts (which we rarely used) #5-11 Hexes (very useful), and a dozen single slings, and two 60 metre half ropes to be plenty of gear to sew it up. Two 50m ropes would suffice and I believe would still permit a four rappel descent straight down the fall line to the glacier below as we did with the two 60m ropes. No newer fixed gear (beside the bolts shown in the Nelson guide) on the route! An axe might have been nice for the hike across the snow/glacier to get to the base of the route (right hand start). We brought none, but we didn't do any unintentional glissading and only loss of control at the base of the route would subject one to a collision with stationary rock below. Next time I'd say the other spires should be included in a traverse for sure...as BobbyPeru suggested some time ago...and El Gato Negro? Thanks Matt!

guess this sportos rattlesnake?

That picture (the butt shot with the mini-tower looking feature to the left) was taken in the WA Pass area. The image is not reversed. it is near the summit of " " Spire.

in the same critical vein of the post above, i inadvertantly stirred up Hans Florentine by asking him if he thought that a guy would ever free climb the nose. This i asked because it seemed odd to me that the other lines on el cap were seeing free ascents or free alternate lines, but, the nose seemed to be somewhat stagnant or lacking suitors. it seems to me that with the strength of the current crowd of climbers (due to the popularity of bouldering both in and outdoors?), that more guys and gals might be eyeing the nose as a free climbing objective. Hans seemed pissed and said it has already been free climbed by a guy (even though some of it was only top roped?) Seem like there is a big difference although a struggling 5.8 leader such as myself probably has no business even commenting on the tasks involved! Brooke Sandal (sp.) was the guy on Liberty Crack, who, by the way, i think was up on the Nose with some chick for a while too.

uh, okay maybe it was the camel's hump. well it was a hump to get over to the Lizard's Head. awwh hell it was something over there east of the Teton's but not the Shark's nose, nowhere near the moose's tooth, bear's tooth the devil's thumb nor any one's flag pole. but it was a good 4th class scramble and that's what the kid is looking for so, you know...close enough. btw, there are really nice tanks up on top of Lizard's Head that hold water for quite a while after rain/snow showers. i wondered if the tanks were man made as they didn't appear to be huecos or vesicles.

Check out the Cameback and Lizard Peak scramble in the Cirque...

winds