gnibmilc

don't most belayers notice when the end of the rope is coming and just pull the rope out of the device slightly ahead of time?

wouldn't the natural resting place for the belayer's hand be below the device, ie, not locked off when belaying with a device off the anchor? what's wrong with clove hitching into the anchor, then just belaying off the harness directly to the second climber? the force of a fall goes through the harness to the belay anchor with no pain or smoking hand. how do you safely belay off the belay anchor with a device?

Sloe Children may be climbed with a dropped knee or two...but not by me...and not with a knee bar like the Butt Lips Chimney.

Second pitch of Town Crier?

Lower Castle has an okay starter chimney. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3285timchimney-med.jpg

Is it funny to see the overhand knot backed up when rapping?

the crux may be the yellow rotten rock thru the small roof with the bad pin and bolt above the slab high up on the route. at least half of the bolt shank is visible and the pin flexes and dumps oat meal in your mouth when you yard on it. that thing is a lotto.

The guys at http://www.sportextreme.com/ got Boreal to make me a pair of the old fashion Boreal Bigwall Boot in my size last year. Very nice with insoles and smooth climbing rubber bottoms and a heel. Very stiff sole, but able to bend some at the toe. Pretty cheap in Europe (<100$US). ~175$US and many weeks if you order them here. They are intended to be sized like normal shoes.