cracked

Didn't some french guy drop a tool or two on the Blanchard route on Robson because he wasn't used to leashes anymore?

No he's referring to the fabric (I think), EPIC by Nextec.

But leashless is easier! According to Gadd. I did, however, notice that even Gadd used leashes on Howse of Cards.

Yep, actually on the exit cracks of the Eiger Nordwand. "As his partners watched his 24 sketching crampon points 40 feet off the belay on the Exit Cracks of the Eiger, Allan Bradley yelled "I'd kill for a pizza." His partners figured he was a real hard case. In reality, Allan whimpered "I'd kill for a piece of pro", but the wind snatched away the last syllable." Twight. I forgot my copy of EA at my parents' house, so this is not quite verbatim. Anybody with a copy around to correct my errors?

Please, don't go there.

You guys are idiots

Yo, Strickland, what else has Samet written? I always liked his satire (sportaneering, you my bitch, etc) but where has he written non-climbing pieces?

ID endurance bivy. 11oz.

Actually, your sweat will not soak through the pack unless Golite uses non-waterproof fabric, which I highly doubt. I must say, I can't stand frames in daypacks, but a foam pad is light, versatile, and improves the pack by a huge margin for the weight. When I have enough money I want to try the Gust sometime.

The DMM prowires are the ones with the ball thing at the end of the gate? I'm happy with BD, so I don't really have any reasons to switch.

He's a genius! Hey Telemarker, what's the weather going to be like this weekend?

I wonder why it is that GPS can measure Everest to be 7 feet taller than previously thought, but the commercial GPS units aren't very accurate altimeters. Something to do with # of satellites the thing picks up?

Nobody has come up with a perfect glove. Some people swear by thin, cold gloves w/belay mitts, others go for the vinylove, others go for something like the BD ICE glove. Others use Dachstein wool mitts with a cheap shell mitt over that. I have no idea. I am planning to try the Vinyloves. Good luck.

What's up with this? Trask is using a DFA-style insult! Where do you live again, Trask? Portland?

I'm going to get some! How durable are they? Then again, I can get 15 pairs for the price of 1 pair of BD/Cloudviels, so maybe I don't care.

Who has the Vinylove? I checked on Google: 4 bucks/pair! I gotta get me some!

Yeah, we should drop our Attitude.

What's his itinerary? Up to Alaska, or to S. America? or what? to you. Good luck.

REI in Eugene used to carry them too. They might still have them...I don't know.

Muffy? What's up with you? Are you drunk? Perhaps that nicotine withdrawal has ramifications?

Ahh, DFA is hilarious. Finally someone who can portray an overinflated ego correctly.

As for the post about dangerous sport climbs, here's my opinion. Leave the trad lines alone. If they are dangerous, leave them that way. Respect the ethics of the FA. On sport routes, however, if you're going to use bolts, use them intelligently. Having huge runouts to the first bolt, decking potential anywhere, homemade hangers, etc, is stupid. Bolts blemish the rock anyways, so make them worth it. Don't, however, indescriminately bolt everything in sight.

I was just saying that the jacket that I took a look at looked pretty bomber and well made. Plus a little spray. That's all.

That's pretty fucking pathetic. Let's keep the bolted cracks in Europe.

I used to be a believer in magazine review...then I became sadly disillusioned. Marketing hype is all that is produced. Might as well read the manufacturer's performance ratings. Check what Scholler fabric Beyond uses, and search for it in this forum. If the fabric is good, the jacket will be good. After all, the fit will be perfect. I know a guy who works for Beyond, and I took a look at his jacket. They seem really nice, and cheap! Climbing bitches about a high collar, but I always find that commercial jackets' collars are too low. Besides, you can always ask Beyond to shorten it. It seems like a good company, and they guys who work there use the stuff. And they are friendly.