Jake_Gano

Where is Stone Hill?

Also, does any have experience with evolv shoes? I knew the climbing club here at the UI gets a deal with them. They look solid, I could pick some up cheap, and they are made in the US by a small company.

I have been climbing on the same older scarpa infernos for a few years now and had them resold about a year ago. After I got them back the fit of the toebox changed some. Between that and the stiffening of the leather with age, they pretty much grind up my feet. Earlier this fall I went down to hyperspud and tried on every shoe they had there in my size. About every one in my size seemed to have saggy fabric on the tops and sides of the shoe. I have very narrow foot and very flat arches. Anyways, I settled on a pair of five-ten coyote lace ups because they fit the best, but a few months later I still end up wearing the Scarpa the vast majority of the time. Comfort aside, everything the Coyotes can do the Scarpas can to better. So does anyone else out there with long flat feet have favorite shoes? Things I like: -Lace-up seems like a must for narrow feet -I noticed the scarpas have a sharply curved sole, while the five-tens are pretty much flat. I think that gives it some extra aggressiveness smearing. -For the scarpas, With the exception of where the laces are, the toes and about the first third of your foot is completely wrapped in rubber. This is great for jamming your toes or most of your feet into cracks and twisting on them. Any ideas?

What type of crampons are they? Mountaineering? Water ice?

Here are some thoughts I wrote up re: alp wing vs. aztar a while back. These are copy and pasted from another thread: I have only fondeled the aztar's at hyperspud, so I may be talking out my ass, but I do have alp wings, so here is my $.02 . Though they are both marketed similarly as a crossover between waterice tools and alpine tools, they have a different feel to them. Alp wings are long and a bit heavier (thought pretty light as well). This gives them a more 'throw of a ball' type swing, whereas the aztars (and, I am told, most CM tools) have a easy 'flick of the wrist' type swing. Also, the Grivel tool have a high degree of modularity. The adze/hammer can be remove (it's fixed on aztars, I believe) and come with a removable 'horn', as well as another finger rest you can buy from Grivel. With these toys you can use the Alp wing to drytool pretty well. The CM lacks some of that modularity. Anyways both are probably excellent tools, just get a deal, use the $ you save to buy some overpriced gas, and get out and climb more.

Not much of a skier, so educate me: Do 404s take mountaineering boots? Are they easily adjustable by hand? Do they have some kind of safety release on them? Thanks, Jake

A big part of why I like north Idaho is that their hasn't been a guidebook available for 15 or 20 years, so a lot of the information that is out there is word of mouth. There's still a lot of 'adventure' in the climbing around here. I don't know what you mean buy north Idaho but I certainly hope that doesn't mean areas in north-central Idaho like the South Fork, Clearwater Mountains, etc. Do you know if it's going to be a widely published Mountaineers-type book or something smaller circulation, ala the Buckhorst montana guides? Also, is it supposed to have ice climbs? What area is it supposed to cover? I've had a lot of fun putting together my own little 'guidebook,' a notebook of all the hand-drawn topos and rumors and info I've picked up over time. I hope this doesn't draw crouds to the quieter spots of the area.

I have the older ones, without the extra pocket. They rock, and I only paid what was about $45us for them. Yeah they are about all you'd need for rock climbing in nasty weather or alpine climbs.

do they still make replacement picks?

The Raven and the bike rack are gone already. That was quick.

Cleaning out the closet, this will probably end up on ebay if noone replies. Buyer payes shipping. BD Raven Pro. 70cm. Basically new (used twice). I like it but there's no reason to own two full size axes when I can get some cash out of it. $100 new, asking $75 Saris 'Bones' Three Bike Rack. All original straps included. I used this thing to haul my bike across the country, used it around town maybe twice, then sold my car and bought a truck. This is incredibly modular and will fit about any trunk, hatchback or SUV. I'll try to dig up a picture. $140 new, want $75. REI Goretex coat. A little rough. Has a (very small) cut and a couple also small stains. It has pit zips, hood, and several pockets. Any reasonable offer takes it. Integral Designs Baltaro Coat. This was a very high end hardshell only a few years ago. It has the reinforced shoulders and elbows, pitzips, three-ply goretex, and very nice mesh-lined hood. Treated last winter with DWR restorant. It's customed cut but I where a large and don't have any freakish misproportions. It's cut big for layers. It's blue with red shoulders and elbows. $300 new, want $100. Body and canopy to a Sierra Designs Clip Flashlight. This was handed down to me cleaning out a shed for the USFS. They were too cheap and lazy to buy some replacement poles, so I thought I would buy some poles and use it. It turned out I too was too lazy and cheap to buy some poles for it. Any reasonable offer takes it. Speakers, 18X8X8 box, 5 inch cones, sound ok not great. By Sharp. Again, any reasonable offer. Computer monitor. Old. You can pick it up in Moscow for $15. I paid $45 for it last year so you know your getting a deal.

Those guys take like 2 months to just process your order. How much for a pair of aztar's (with a bunch of extra picks)? I have only fondeled the aztar's at hyperspud, so I may be talking out my ass, but I do have alp wings, so here is my $.02 . Though they are both marketed similarly as a crossover between waterice tools and alpine tools, they have a different feel to them. Alp wings are long and a bit heavier (thought pretty light as well). This gives them a more 'throw of a ball' type swing, whereas the aztars (and, I am told, most CM tools) have a easy 'flick of the wrist' type swing. Also, the Grivel tool have a high degree of modularity. The adze/hammer can be remove (it's fixed on aztars, I believe) and come with a removable 'horn', as well as another finger rest you can buy from Grivel. With these toys you can use the Alp wing to drytool pretty well. The CM lacks some of that modularity. Anyways both are probably excellent tools, just get a deal, use the $ you save to buy some overpriced gas, and get out and climb more.

Are the sabertooths still around? I might know someone interested.

I know of a 8 pitch 5.8 bolted route that I believe is right of the standard route on Slick Rock, then a runout-sounding .10c(?)R route to the right. Check RC.com, I think they have details. It was discussed at some lenght on Tom Lopez's page, I don't have the URL handy though. Good Luck

I'm cleaning out my closet and found some old stuff I want to get rid of. PM soon (or email jgano2 at yahoo dot com) or the climbing gear goes on consignment at Hyperspud, and everything else gets hucked at the pawn shop. More gear (maybe) coming soon. Buyer pays shipping costs or picks up in Moscow/Pullman area and all prices OBO. REI goretex jacket. Men's medium, blue. Has pit zips and a removable hood, three layer goretex. Four front pockets. This came to me second hand and I really don't need it, already have enough climbing shells. It has a few small paint marks and a small cut in one sleeve, so it's a little rought but it's a solid hardshell for cheap. $40 Old skool 5.10 spires. 11.5 (45) These are the old ones before they had the white stitching across the leather. I bought them four or five years ago in Colorado but ended upgrading to a higher end shoe before these had a lot of miles on them. The soles and leather are in good shape. Good if you have a buddy that want to get into rock climbing or you need an all day comfortable rock shoe. $40 Saris "bones" 3 bike rack. Grey. Has all the original straps. This rack is adaptable to fit about in trunk, hatchback, or SUV our there. I bought it, used to to haul my bike across the country, maybe used it three or four times around the area, then sold my car and bought a pickup. It's in new shape. They are about $150 dollars new. $80 Some speakers, ~18X8X8 box and 5 inch cones, sound ok not great, $25 Old computer monitor, small, $30, heavy so you'd probably have to pick them up locally. I would consider trading anything above for: Cams or slider nuts(any brand or size, as long as they are in great coniditon) Lightweight bivy sack (in good condition) Premium vintage vinyl (Pink Floyd, Deep Purple, Cream, etc.) Maybe a lightweight shell like a precip or the sweet one Cloudveil makes. Rock on, Jake

I'm heading back to Illinois to visit family on Tuesday 6/21, until 7/7. I'd like to hit up some of the crags in southern Illinois while I'm back. Does anyone know anyone who climbs down there? I have a rope, rack, guidebook, etc., but I would prefer to only drag a set of shoes, a harness, and a belay back with me because I'm flying. I've tried RC.com and climbingcentral without luck. I should be available to climb most of the time I'm back and will probably have a car to use. Post here or drop me a line at jgano2@yahoo.com . Later, Jake

Thanks Kola, but I own scarpa plastics, and scarpa rock shoes, and both seemed to be made to fit my feet. I've thought about going Sportiva, but every one I've tried on I just can't get to work. The fit just ain't doing it for me.

One last try before I got out and just buy the damn things.

BUMP for tax return time.

You by chance the same cooper I climbed Glacier Peak with back in 00?

Lightweight polypro vapor barrier socks under your rock shoes won't effect the fit or performance, and will keep you a little warmer and keep your shoes a lot drier, so no more clammy feet and cold days.

Where ya headed on this big trip?

I bet I can find someone to buy those pons from ya.

I don't have particularly long arms and I've noticed the exact same prob. I bought some of their silkweights a few years back and wanted a tight fit for better wicking so I went for a med. The bod is just about right but the arms and way too short.

Need to get from Seatac to tacoma in the 11th. I'm not from the area, are there any good shuttles, busses, etc. that make that run? I don't really wanna pay another $50 for cab fare.