Billygoat

Where's Skaha?

It won't let me log in?! How do you do it Allison?

Dood, I'm hitting Alex Plus, Self Storage, Lick The Boot, CJ O'Matic, and The Marquis Du Ski all in the first week, then I'll bop over to ski in...

I was told, by a counter person in marblemount FWIW, that it is open but they are worried about avy danger and don't want to deal with the public yet

You should take her mr. glasshouses, and show her the ropes. Then maybe you can come show me the errors of my way...

Damn! First the ferry now this. The Islands are an inconvenient place to live. I guess that's why I like it here

Any one else having trouble dialing out? I get "all circuits are busy" no matter where I try to call. Is it just a local thing or a nation wide problem.

Good point about leaving enough slack for a z pulley. How close do you all think a rope team of two could safely travel together given the average size of the crevasses in a maritime location like the North Cascades? I really like my 35 meter, 8.2mm rope. I guess I could bring two, they are so light. That definitely would be a consideration recognizing the possible need to rappel into the hole to check on ones partner. Glad to hear the knot theory has been tested. Butterfly knot seems to be the stopper of choice. I think I'll set up a scenario in the back yard and test it a couple times. Extra slings and tiblocs should be carried. They are really not that heavy. Cheers

Exactly what I was thinking Just ordered a three hundred foot roll of 10mm, 6500 lb tensile strength

Hey glass gow kiss my ass! Why don't you go and make a positive contribution (besides your photos) and post your opinion on my Gear Critic thread hey sheepshager, not my problem your dick is small and your ego writes check your body can't cash. if you decide to take things personally - don't blame this one on me. Seems like you're the one being a bit reactionary I think your photos are good and I want your opinion on my Gear Critic thread. But, you gotta have balls to climb choss heaps My dick is big, my ego is gold and my body takes me where I want to go I don't shag sheep, I eat them Smell my glove you cross dressing, crack smoking ukulele player

Keg of beer! would roll/slide nicely and keep one well hydrated

Good ideas SC! I think the tent peg as a marlin spike or fid is brilliant, however the whole tying on of weights seems a bit tiring. I think a better idea would be to tie in a couple of retired lawyers and doctors to the middle of my two person rope team as self propelled weights/chocks. I'm sure one of them would catch just nicely on the lip of a crevasse. Hell, they may even pay me for the experience.

Well said

Hey glass gow kiss my ass! Why don't you go and make a positive contribution (besides your photos) and post your opinion on my Gear Critic thread

Smooth! "Hey baby, what brings you to my neck of the woods?" She'll totally take the bait! You mean " so, what brings you out to this nape of the...I mean neck of the..."

Hey Chris

Not familiar with those two, but there is lots of climbing out here, some solid, some chossy but all good The weather, on the other hand, you just have to learn to love. Colorado and California offer more consistent "nice weather", if nthat is what you are seeking. What besides rock brings you out this way?

Climbingirl, are you prepared for the action you are about to get...?!

Good responses! We do alot of top roping at our local crag because of a lack of gear placements and the overall chossy conditions. I was talking to Larry at Mouuntain Tool and he was encouraging me to use a static line for all my top roping and saving my dynamic rope for trad leads and alpine routes on the mainland. Static rope is less expensive and can take alot more abuse. Larry was saying that the rope gets pretty well damaged from constant lowering over the tight bend of two biners. More money on gear but better application and longer rope lives. My regular belayers for the most part are on it so I don't fear the fall. On the knots in the glacier rope issue, I've seen it presented in magazines and books as additional insurance for rope teams of two. I've seen the alpine butterfly knot encouraged as well as others. The concept makes sense on paper but may not in practice, especially if one uses a short, 30m, rope. I could only see problems trying to bypass the knots while ascending or when yarding on a z-pulley. I'm just wondering if anyone has heard or experienced the knot thing working in the real world...

Since top roping done right allows the person climbing to fall without creating a lot of force, I should be able to use a static line for greater abrasion and degradation at the bend resistance. Any opinions/experience with that? Also, knots in your glacier rope, between people, in order to help slow or stop by catching the lip of the crevasse: 1) does it work 2) if yes to one, what knot is recommended 3) how does one get the knot out, under load, in order to ascend said rope? or does one have to be hauled out at that point?!

Yeah, and all that horsecock can puff you up like a poison toad =

Just talked to my friend who lives in Nederland, in the mountains just west of Boulder, he said his house is still buried and they were just able to get a backhoe to drag their truck out of the driveway today! He's sending a few photos, I'll post them when I get 'em.

I'll have a go: Trask, Dwayner, Necronomicon, GregW, Catbirdseat

And me....

Ahhh, it is a monster! lumbering as it were. I didn't mean any one in particular Trask, just getting the call out. I'm sure quite a bit of spray had to do with people not getting out because of the poor skiing/avy conditions and of course the war. As the weather gets better and the war gets over I predict less to moderate amounts of spray.