catbirdseat

How come they labeled DFA as "Time-Warner" and Trask as "AOL"? They must be the Avatars they use at some other BB.

I have no moral qualms about the death penalty. In principle it is a just penalty in certain cases. Yet I am opposed to it. I've sat on juries and I know how easily they can be bamboozed. There is no way to ensure 100% that an innocent person will not be convicted. The mere idea of killing an innocent person is abhorrent to me. I would rather have justly convicted killers escape death, and get life in prison, than have one innocent person put to death.

Why is it that we have more people per capita in jail than the rest of the world? Some would have you believe that it is because of discrimination or political repression. Others would have you believe it is because we needlessly incarcerate for "victimless" crimes. But I believe that the reason is freedom. Our people have more choices than anywhere in the world. They can choose where they travel, where they live, with whom they associate, to which school they can go. We also have the most diverse nation on earth. Finally, we are a very moral people. We believe in justice and we believe in a better world. Victimless crimes are not really victimless. Look in the right places and you will find the victims. Drugs: the baby left to starve while its mother goes in search of crack, the house that catches fire when the junkie passes out with food on the stove. Prostitution: venereal disease, HIV, broken homes, marital strife, abuse. Pornography: fosters disrespect for other people and encourages other illegal behavior. When people have more choices, more people choose wrongly. Yes, if we rolled back civil rights and right to due process, I am sure we could reduce crime and incarceration. John Ashcroft is doing is best as we speak. But that isn't the America I want to live in.

Greg, I should think that you, of all people, could keep his gun's and his guys straight.

It seems that there are almost as many opinions as climbers. I'll have to try the reverso/ two rope deal on some easy climb where I can concentrate on the gear without worrying about time. Now if I were trask, what I'd do is have two cute gals who were perfect partners. They'd take turns leading, I'd second, then I'd always have one to keep me company. We climbed Prusik West Ridge last June with one rope and three climbers. We just tied two in about 10-15 ft apart near the end and simul-seconded that way. None of the pitches require all the rope, so it worked out pretty well.

Supposedly, Finns were at one time considered to be bad luck on sailing vessels. No matter that there were quite a lot of them. Melville used to mention it. I don't quite know where the notion came from.

I think you've got Penelope confused with Clytemnestra, half-sister of Helen and the wife of Agamemnon. Penelope was always faithful.

Can anyone provide a link to a "how to" for the GiGi? I know what it looks like, and how much it costs, but can't find how it works.

I've heard that the self-locking feature of the reverso can be a pain if you have to lower someone.

Would it be safe or practical to use an ATC-type device to belay two followers on separate ropes? Is there a device, which, unlike the reverso, can be used from the harness or below the anchor?

How about somewhere on the Eastside for a change, say, Bellevue, Redmond, or Issaquah?

Staggered on a single 9mm or doubles?

I know it is not the most aesthetic way to rock climb, but sometimes you end up with an odd number of climbers and don't want to leave anyone home on an alpine trad climb. There are various ways to handle this, from dragging a rope to having simultaneous followers, double ropes, etc. Of those of you who have done climbs with three, what is your preferred way to deal with it and what equipment do you like best?

Yes, there you go. Now violence is something that people can relate to.

Nice topic, Colonel. I try not to go into too much detail. I try to relate aspect that other people can relate to, such as the views including mountains they might be familiar with. Or funny stories that are more people oriented and non-technical. The most difficult thing for non-climbers to comprehend is why we willingly endure so much suffering in the name of fun. When someone sees me staggering stiff and sore down the hall, it's hard for them to believe that I really did have a great weekend.

The most important term in the equation, BALANCE, is missing. The reason the sitting belay is more stable is balance. Three points are in contact: your two feet and your butt. When the there is no load most of your weight is on your butt. When the rope goes tight the load transfers to the feet, which hopefully you have positioned on against a couple of solid rocks, so you'll never have to explore the coefficient of static friction between your soles and the the rock. We are WAY over analyzing this, aren't we?

Dru, bottom line, if you wanted to subscribe to one climbing magazine and you were an alpine rock and ice oriented climber from the PNW, which one would you pick? Or is the answer NONE?

Here, here! I agree with what RobBob said. The US has to regain its objectivity with regard to Israel. We had it under Clinton, but lost it under Bush.

Name something that was NOT a quack cure for syphillis.

No way! Beckey it not that philosophical. He's a concrete thinker (or shall I say granite).

Jack London, Farley Mowat, Herman Melville, Tristan Jones

Isn't that amazing? All the plant and animals must work quickly to take advantage of the water while it is there. Many people think of the desert as an ugly, barren place. Nothing could be further from the truth. Deserts can be truly beautiful.

Microsoft may not care what you are doing with your computer, but the government might. Suppose the FBI wanted to find out if you were involved in illegal activity. They could get a court order that Microsoft provide them access to your computer. They would be able to see every thing you read or send from your computer. George Orwell's 1984 is here, albeit 19 years late.

No, I don't think about people on this bulletin board when I am out hiking or climbing, but I sometimes do when I am doing the dishes or other mindless things. Speaking of which, trask hasn't weighed in in quite a while...

Instant Cream of Wheat is a lot better than instant oatmeal. Try it, you'll like it.