catbirdseat

Just as long as you don't goof and grab the wrong card and use it by mistake. There is a reason why the first place they go with a stolen card is the gas station. It's automated. They can test if it works with little risk.

You got a pair of those Asolo AFS Guides from the REI rental program didn't you? I also got a pair of those. I used them a year and then replaced the liners. Dave Page had some liners for only $60. The are comfortable and very warm, however they allow very little ankle flexibility, which is why I picked up a pair of Invernos (also at the garage sale) for $114 for ice climbing. I save the Asolos for easy glacier slogs.

Regarding party size limits, this field trip exceeds the usual limits of 6 for rock climbs and 9 for glacier climbs. We try to mitigate this by going really early, like 6 am before most hikers show up. They are sent out in groups of fewer than 6 at five minute intervals.

I understand that in Oregon you can rent the locator units at many retail stores that cater to skiers and climbers. The unit is activated by the climber when he knows he is overdue and a search party is expected. It allows rescuers who have the appropriate receiver to locate the climber. I'd rather have a cell phone so I could say, "All is well. I'll be a day late."

BTW, that was post 499 and this is big 500.

Jan Jorgensen of the SnoHo Sheriff's Dept reported on Kiro 7 that they were found at 6 pm and will be hiking out tonight. The big guy they showed talking to another deputy was Duane Sandrin.

There are always some students who are not in as good a shape as they think they are. This hike can serve as a wake up call. They carry a pack equal to 1/4 body weight and have to get to the top in less than 2.5 hours, which is admittedly not that hard, but you'd be surprised, or maybe not.

Your chart is destined to be a classic. The product of twisted genius! Make sure wayne1112 gets a gander at it.

Lordy, the Ingraham would have been almost impossible going up. I don't even want to think about it. In another week, it will be in good condition, if it doesn't snow any more.

We had white and green Subaru Outbacks in the Overnight lot. I thought we were parked right next to you. By the way, the post-holing higher on the mountain was far worse than anything encountered on the Muir Snowfield, I kid you not.

He was a good man. Read about him here .

Here's a new way for dirtbag climbers to make a few bucks - as dog sitters at Smith .

Here is a way for you to get the mechanics down in a perfectly safe manner. "Lead on Toprope". Top rope a climb and drag a second rope. Pretend that you are leading and clip that second rope as though your life depended on it. If you mess up, no worries, you're on top rope. When you start to feel like you are really getting the hang of it, have your belayer give you a "slack" top rope, that is, you are still protected by the top rope, but you will fall about a foot if you grease off. Finally get rid of the top rope and lead for real on a baby simple route. Don't graduate to the next level until you do every clip perfectly.

I once rented a pair of Raichle plastic boots for Adams that inflicted terrible pain in an unusual place- the side of my foot. Usually if a boot will hurt it is because it pinches my little toes. With plastics, they either fit or they don't. There isn't much breaking in. If you got them at REI, take them back and try a different brand. My Scarpa Invernos have been a dream come true. It's SO nice not having to think about your feet.

Tuesday on Rainier we had what I'd term wind shear. It was less windy at the summit that it was at Panorama Point. The wind was blowing from the NE. I think it was sinking air accelerating as it went over the ridge.

My advice is to go with the flow, and attack, attack, attack!

Milosh, I believe that the rappel is close to 40 m, however you could probably downclimb from higher up and make it a 30 m rappel. That would put you right above a couple of crevasses, so you would have to be very careful. Your other alternative is to decend the headwall further to the east which is about one pitch of 50 degree downclimbing. There is one thin snow bridge you would have to cross on that route.

I don't see any reason why you shouldn't start leading sport, provided you have a competent belayer and don't climb beyond your ability. Find a belayer who has some experience and can show you what you need to know. I assume you know what to do when you get to the top? If you can climb 5.9 on top rope, start leading at 5.6.

I saw that slide show and it was a great one. He hatched the plan when they were in town. He bought four red dresses at the thrift store and pulled them out of his pack after the first helicopter load of climbers were set down. By the time the second load of climbers approached in the helicopter, the first four were wearing their dresses and were striking provocative poses on the rocks. Someone in the helicopter snapped some shots from the air.

Jason, knowing you, you would have eaten that mountain for breakfast. It was well within your capabilities. The problem with winter climbs is you have to go on the weather.

Dustin, what we did was technically unsafe, at least the way we did it. We figured the risk of a crevasse fall in winter on the upper mountain was pretty minimal. If you wanted to move a middle man to the end and do it the safe way, this is how it might be done. 1) middle man pulls rope through prussick while approaching lead man (both are protected by 3rd climber who may place a boot axe belay) 2) lead man ties in just behind middle man 3) former lead man unties from end of rope 4) new lead (former middle) man ties into end of rope 5) new middle man slides prussick knot as new lead man moves out to extend rope.

AlpenTom was wearing a helmet on Gibraltar Ledge when a small rock beaned him. He didn't even mention it until later. It would have been a different story without the helmet.

The fact that they survived is a testament to the fact they were both wearing helmets. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET.