catbirdseat

Does anyone have any beta on these two route on Snow Creek Wall? I heard a report of White Slabs being mossy as though it doesn't get done often. Anything good or bad to say about these easier routes?

I don't know the answer to that. I imagine pretty late. It probably gets harder as more rock gets exposed.

Okay, how about the Trango Jaws? I have one, and I like it for skinny ropes up to 9.8 mm. I have to turn it around for rappelling on 9.8 mm so it works like an ATC.

Yes, but I go there for the beer, my friend.

Jason, we shouldn't neglect to mention the delightful company of the beautiful (and single) dryad. The take home message from the foregoing, gentle readers, is that Exit 38 is all choss. It sucks and there is absolutely NO reason to go there. DON'T go!

The whole idea of using a reverso was to climb with double or twin ropes and to be able to belay two followers at the same time. If you are on twins and you fall, the load is shared between each at the device. Likely, the friction would be similar to one large diameter rope. If you are on doubles and you fall, all the load is on one strand and you have to deal with that fifty-plus pounds of force to stop the fall. That doesn't sound too good. Your belayer would want to wear gloves, certainly. So has anyone used the Trango B52? They make it out to be the greatest thing since sliced bread.

"This guy was my best friend up until the day this picture was taken. His wife looks on in disgust. Memorial Day, 2003 at Mt Bachelor, minutes prior to skimming across a 33 degree pond with hundreds of onlookers. Video to follow shortly."

Oh, HER? Well, she was just making inquiries. Yeah, now she was a looker, wasn't she? The blond in the yellow. You couldn't keep your eyes off her, could you?

Talkin' about obscure. What you talkin' 'bout Willis?

She's here, she climbs 5.9 (at least), she's pretty and she drinks beer. Sighted at Exit 38 (and NB Bar and Grill).

I like the Flying Pig. Never been to Scuttlebutt's, but I like their beer.

Just trying to fit in.... Now I feel like such a heel.

By Jove, the Good Doctor was right.

Daler, you make an interesting point. I've been told many times the importance of limiting rope drag, but have always thought of it in the context of the rope hindering your progress, not in terms of it limiting the stretch of the rope. It makes sense totally. Very good.

I once had a sadistic boss who didn't like his neighbor's cat coming around his house, so he decided to poison it. He put cyanide "borrowed" from work in some hamburger and tossed it over the fence. The dog ate it instead. The neighbor children told him, "Ginger had a heart attack". "That's too bad", he told them. He was grinning as he related this story. The same guy would tell how his father like to hit his mules in the head with two by fours. This is also the same guy who bragged about beating the shit out of a soccer dad from his kid's opposing team because, "he didn't like all his yelling". See the pattern?

No, he said it was the ICE FALL. Different route.

If Dave jumped off a cliff I wouldn't, but I might if it were Erik. [ Go look it up.

I have a pretty good qualitative sense of relative dynamicicity, I want quantitative data. So qualitatively it goes like this, right?: hip belay >> figure eight (rap mode)> ATC=Reverso=GiGi=tuber>Sticht Plate=Munter>GriGri

NERD is an acceptable form of the word. Both NURD and NERD are right. Why do I get called on spelling. Others are far worse.

I am concidering a GriGri for sport climbing (only). I am considering switching from an ATC to a Reverso for Trad climbing. Mainly, my interest is of an intellectual nature. Probably the practical aspects would outweigh other factors.

A had a Type A personality. How do you deal with a person like that? When a person let's their feelings of angle have full rein, they can get totally out of control. It may be that at some point early in the trip, a few words might have helped, but once the emotions rose beyond a certain level, there was nothing anybody could have said that would have made any difference. The source of this person's anger was an inability to deal with things beyond her control, and perhaps stubborness, and a lack of flexibility. It really does remind me of children. Things I might have said: "Yeah, it sucks but there isn't anything we can do about it. Hey, look at that eagle over there." "I know you'd rather have a hot meal right now, but there's no water here. I can tell you need some carbos, so eat a candy bar now. You'll feel a whole lot better."

Here's a total tech nurd question. Is there any test data out there on the relative amount of slippage of various types of belay devices, such as the ATC, GriGri, Reverso, Sticht Plate, etc. I had to make up the word "dynamicicity" for want of a better word, to describe how dynamic the belay would be in catching a leader fall with the respective device. I am interested to know the effect of "dynamicicity" on impact force.

You can tell a lot about a person by learning whether or not they like cats. People who have a controlling nature like dogs, because they are so compliant. They hate cats, because cats are totally independent and can't be made to do anything they don't want to do on their own.

They do teach "always", however, I don't. I believe one should do as the situation dictates. I seldom do on sport routes, unless my belayer is tiny. I sometimes do on single pitch trad routes if the base of the climb is a narrow ledge. I'd say if you are inexperienced, and in doubt, it is probably safer to anchor all your belays, than not to.