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Everything posted by catbirdseat
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He's using surrogates at the moment. Those willing to act as "enablers". I don't know whether we are helping or hurting him.
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I am afraid that trask is at this very moment experiencing "Spray Delirium Tremens" or SDT. He's trying to break free of his addiction, but as you know it is very hard and very few have ever fully recovered from cc.com. Most of the ones that have stopped posting have been seen panhandling at such places as Mercer Avenue and Fairview. In trask's case, he has built up such a huge tolerance for spray that he is currently writhing in agony. Perhaps we could get Johnny Destiny to say a prayer for him?
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Some guy asked me to post this for him. BALTIMORE—A team of scientists at Johns Hopkins University announced Monday that a five-year study examining the link between polyphenols and lower cholesterol rates has found jack shit. "I can't explain what happened," head researcher Dr. Jeremy Ingels said. "We meticulously followed correct scientific procedure. Our methods were sufficiently rigorous that they should have produced some sort of result. Instead, we found out nothing." Added Ingels: "Nothing!" As Ingels stepped aside to compose himself, fellow researcher Dr. Thomas Chen took the podium to discuss the $7 million jack-shit-yielding study. "We are all very upset," Chen said. "When we began, this looked so promising, I would have bankrolled it myself. Now, after five years, I couldn't tell you if polyphenols even exist." The study, which Chen characterized as a "huge waste of time and money," was financed by a Johns Hopkins alumni grant to determine the effects of the compound polyphenol on cholesterol. A known antioxidant found in herbs, teas, olive oil, and wines, polyphenol was originally thought to lower cholesterol—a theory that remains unproven because the Johns Hopkins researchers couldn't prove squat. Fuck all you morons! trask
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Why would you want to lug your overnight gear so high on the mountain? Marmot Camp is where I'd go. It's at about 7200'. Topo
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This is the e-mail I just got from trask, "Suck the farts outta my ass, beotch! " It just brings a tear to my eye when he talks to me that way.
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One afternoon at Cheers, Cliff Clavin was explaining the Buffalo Theory to his buddy Norm. Here's how it went: "Well ya see, Norm, it's like this... A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members. In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Excessive intake of alcohol, as we know, kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. That's why you always feel smarter after a few beers."
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I will attempt to translate 'kowski into English: There are not any sport routes in Zion, are there?
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Hey Mitch!
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I guess DFA really was a trask avatar. Trask said he was gone for good, avatars and all.
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Commercial guiding in the Enchantments and Stuart
catbirdseat replied to RichardKorry's topic in Climber's Board
That would suck. It would mean that it would become that much harder to get a permit. It means those who pay get access. -
Let's see who can drink whom under the table. I'm putting my money on the Scottman, but on the other hand those Germans, they can hold a pint or two of beer. Plus they are reknowned in their ability to hold their bladders.
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This can't be true. Can it? Of course they would shoot them. They'd be endangered before you knew it.
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Dru, did you think we'd let you run unopposed? Remember, we got to respect quality as well as quantity. Although, as Stalin once said, "quantity has a quality all its own".
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That's easy, just broach the subject of retro-bolting. I suggest you propose bolting a test piece crack like ROTC.
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Get an apple press and obtain the juice. You will get the best results if you either boil the juice or add sulfite to inhibit bacteria. Then add brewer's yeast of your choice. Champagne yeast will give the most alcohol. Ferment in gallon or 5 gallon jugs. After a few weeks bottle it and add a little sugar for fizz. There you have it. Hard pear cider.
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So who will vie for the title of King of Spray? Some notable contenders: Dru, DFA, GaperTimmy, Cpt.Caveman, JGowans. Other, nominations?
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WTF??? I knew we were in demand the world over, but this is getting ridiculous. Reminds me of the time I shagged a burd in New Orleans. She then posted on some pseudo Scottish ex-pat web site asking if anyobdy knew how to get in touch with some Scottish guy living in Seattle called Jason. I almost shat a breeze-block when I saw that. I emailed the webmaster and in true American fashion threatened legal action if he didn't remove the post. I wouldn't have minded but she was a bit of a dog. Ah, ha, so you had your beer goggles on when you did her, ay, mate?
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Worlds biggest, heaviest, most expensive cams?
catbirdseat replied to faust's topic in The Gear Critic
#9 with 6061-T6 aluminum cams - $149.00 #12 with 6061-T6 aluminum cams - $219.00 All for the priviledge of flaying yourself alive on those offwidth cracks. -
This can be done in one long day, but it requires an alpine start. Another way you can go is to camp at Blanca Lake and scramble up the west face from Columbia Glacier. You meet the S. Ridge and continue up on it.
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He's been talking about finding another site on which to spray. Perhaps he's found it. What's this world coming to? Pretty soon the only thing people will talk about here is climbing. Oh, trask, I almost forgot.
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I think we're all talking about the same chimney. We just disagree on the rating. If you don't like chimneys, they'll seem harder. Since our belay wasn't right below the chimney, I didn't want to set pro right away and make for a lot of rope drag, so the first piece I set was a sling on a small chockstone about 20 ft up. The first part on the outside of the chimney was easy because of big chickenheads for your feet.
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Josh, that's not possible. Remember what happened to Dan Akroyd in Ghost Busters. He was told not to think of anything, but was attacked by the Stay Puffed Marshmallow Man.
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Relative "dyamicicity" of various belay devices
catbirdseat replied to catbirdseat's topic in The Gear Critic
My fingers got "tongue" tied. -
We had to jog right to get to the 5.6 chimney, but then we may have been off-route to the left. The chimney you describe as 5.8 is more of an off-width, isn't it? What were the dimensions?