catbirdseat

Take another sip of hot java, why don't you? I know it is sitting there next to your keyboard steaming away.

I called Leavenworth Ranger Station and found there has been no change in policy with regard to winter camping. You can camp for free. Bring your own toilet paper. Haul out your own garbage. The gate is closed at Eightmile, but the other gates will be left open and you can drive in until the snows stop you.

you pass on that second cup of coffee before going out the door and you get to work only to find the coffee machine is broken! I need coffeee I am so sleepy

There is a really nice long low angle jam crack at Upper Mountaineer Dome in Icicle Canyon, called The Left Crack that is good to practice on. You can lieback the thing, but you want to avoid that and force yourself to jam it the entire way, if you want to get practice. I believe it is 5.6.

Trask is back, spreading his special brand of joy and happiness to all.

Does that figure of 60% really mean people who get outside or are they mostly gym rats?

They ought to extend the red zone to the other side to warn of the "fixed piece zone".

It's what you fill that bucket with that counts.

I've looked at that list many times before and I still get a chuckle. There's truth in it.

Remember to wash your hands, or hand, rather.

Let me get this straight. Under the old policy, in the winter months, although the Eightmile CG was gated, you could camp there if you were willing to walk in. So now that is forbidden?

You can tell a placement is shit from looking at it, but the converse is not always true. W.C. Fields had an expression. "The race doesn't always go to the swift, or the fight to the strong, but that's the way to bet.

Dru, considering volume of your posts, let us thank the good Lord that you have chosen the written word to communicate rather than the method used by herring.

I'm saying it is possible to blow a bomber piece under worst case scenarios like dru's hypothetical fall factor 3 fall. The other way of looking at it that sometimes a piece is less bomber than it looks.

Another aspect of the discussion would be the relative importance of proper equilization versus the quality of the individual pieces that constitue the anchor. Impropery equalized pieces can blow out no matter how bomber they are, because they can fail serially. No single piece is stronger than about 16 kN.

The article is interesting and worth reading.

Word.

The polemical nature of this discussion gives the appearance that some think anchors the the most important factor whereas others think pro on lead is more important. The reality as troubleski has pointed out is that the redundancy which results from the combination of good pro and good anchors is what decreases one's chances of accident and injury. An experienced climber like a good gambler, or a good engineer tries to minimize chance of failure at each an every opportunity.

Chuck I like your beer idea, but for god sakes, pack out the empties! Also, if you don't like the junk on the summit, don't just chuck it over a cliff, either carry it all of the way out or else leave it be.

The problem of antibiotic resistance in humans comes down to a relatively few microorganisms, the worst of which include Staph aureus, mycobacteria sp. and Streptococcus sp. not "salmonella, campylobacter, and e coli 0157 ". Some of these other organisms can, however, transmit the plasmids for antibiotic resistance to the other bacteria.

The real question for Dru is which would he give up first, climbing or drugs?

Hey Muffy. See you at Vantage.

We need to develop a snaffle hanta virus vaccine. The only problem might be getting the snaffles to form a neat queue to receive their injections.

I think that certainly the more posts one has on CC.com, the more reliable that person's advice should be considered. NOT!