catbirdseat

Does Paris Hilton ever present the left side of her face to be photographed?

Whoever removed the pointy stump at the bottom to the start of Celestial Groove significantly reduced the committment factor of those first moves. Granted, you can get a decent cam in so no worries.

I think it's great that people even argue about this topic, even if no "resolution" is reached. To hear some tell it, they don't even question it in places like France and Thailand. They just bolt everything and no one gives a shit.

is this what the scattered tea leaves told you or what You are, of course, free to do as you please. I'll do the same.

Old style, or old old style? The type they stopped making last year, or the type they stopped making in the '90's? Us old farts like precision. There are lots and lots of those "old old" style cams with the harder metal out there. Some say they aren't safe. I wouldn't use one at Vantage, but seems like they must be fine on granite.

What's so funny?

Does it matter that useful discussion is padded by fluff? The fluff can be interesting too. Some people are drawn by that and occasionally post useful thoughts.

They may use the tusk to detect salinity gradients and thereby detect freezing sea water. The salinity would go up as salt is excluded from the water as it freezes. Many of you may be familiar with sensitive teeth. As dentin is exposed by receding gums, it become sensitive to heat, cold and changes in ionic strength, etc. So this isn't so far removed from experience of the narwahl.

I've been climbing for 7 years and I'm not ready to claim I know everything. Seems like I now have a good idea of what I don't know, whereas before I didn't know even that.

Cobra_Commander's post in Spray gave me an idea. I was torn between spray and being serious. Let the mods move this to spray if it goes that way. So you hear people like RuMR all the time saying things like, "I've been climbing for 20 years", etc. with the implication that because of that you should accept whatever assertion they happen to be making. I submit that it has almost no bearing on the reliability of their opinions other than to show they were around when a particular event might have occurred. I mean, some people by climbing very intensely with a large variety of partners can in a short time acquire a great deal of knowledge, for example Distel and Layton. Others who climb only occasionally and always with the same partners may have many years of experience but end up with a very narrow view of what's the proper way to do things.

Come on people. It seems clear enough to me that he's reposting someone else's report.

Why don't you show up to one? Then you can find out what REALLY goes on.

NEVER! Bwaaahaaaaa!!! It's like Sysiphus rolling the big stone up the hill. As soon as he reaches the top, it rolls down the other side and he has to start all over again, for eternity.

This just in. There may be hope after all.

That was a hilarious review.

So which is is boys? Can bouldery mean either poorly protected or hard start, or both?

First post in six months!

It's a made for cc.com movie. I can't believe E-Rock isn't touting it's merits! Gay bivies! Lot of sheep! Discuss.

It's a good thing that your 5.7 doesn't have a bouldery finish. It's okay if you can't get off the ground but a lot worse if you have to resort to aid or lower off because you can't finish. By the way, how do you stick clip if there aren't any bolts?

I didn't come up with it first. I just posted a picture of the same from a different angle. This bolted crack represents the extreme case, about which few would disagree. I doubt even DFA would defend this particular instance, although his attitude would lead some to believe that his position to be all cracks are fair game.

Let's make it Tuesday! And Dave, take note. It's spelled TOMORROW. Remember no A's and two R's.

I tell you it's damn nice to be able to walk next door from Stone Gardens to the Lockspot to have a beer and not get all stinky. The still smells of lingering smoke, but that will go away, eventually.

One occasionally encounters the words "bouldery start" in guide books. Often this means that the opening moves are way harder than the rest of the climb. So for some reason, the climb gets rated based not on its hardest moves, but on the majority of the climbs not counting the start. An example of this is Cat Burglar, 5.6 at Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon. The rating is accurate if you don't count the first move. Another example is Celestial Groove, 5.9, Pearly Gates, Icicle Canyon. The start is much harder than 5.9, in my opinion. I'd like to start a discussion by asking what does "bouldery start" mean to you? Does it just mean "harder than the rest" or does it mean something else like "more steep" or tricky. Can you come up with more examples?

It is also the trailhead for Stilliguamish and Twin Peaks.

Joseph, do you think fixed pins are better than bolts? They may be aesthetically more pleasing because they are part of the crack, but functionally they are the same as bolts.