mikebell

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Here is a pix of one of you on the top from Easy Mox. My partner was bagging his 99 of the 100.

Did not go so don't know.

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Anyone need a ride? Leaving Redmond this afternoon.

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There is a scramble route starting on the west side above Peggy's Pond which includes a crawl through some large boulders which form a tunnel just below the summit to avoid the need to rapell. Where the climbing goes from 4th to 5th class it is on the left and if you go right you need a rope to descend. I've also gone from the SE bringing a rope for descent.

No mystery, I was the cameraman for this trip. The fourth climber in the picture is roped to his partner who is not pictured behind him and below the crest. They left the TH a little before us, traversed over to ridge, but turned around before the first pitch.

Looking for someone to share ride and/or climb with in the tetons. The Grand, guide wall. I'm flexible about exact dates but plan to stay about a week. PM me.

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called/pm for azar ice tool

There are some good tips here. Here is one you can use on the east side in the middle of summer in good weather. Go without a sleeping bag and wear your clothes in a bivy sac. This creates room in the pack for a half rack of your favorite beer to use for hydration on the approach and at camp afer climbing.

http://www.solio.com/v2/ Solio is lighter and smaller with less output. It has its own battery so you can charge an ipod twice before relying on the sun and it's small enough to hang off the back of your pack. It chargers in less than a day in good weather on glacier. In normal overcast cascade weather conditions it takes a few days to fully charge but you can still get power for two or three hours of tunes a day. http://www.solio.com/v2/

That looks like me caught on camera having to downclimb. Yes, once I looked around and realized where I was my route went left and up to the ridge, then around the north side and back for a 4th class traverse on the ridge to end up above the notch without needing a rope.

I spoke with you lower down and saw you get to the notch while I was climbing the summit block Sat pm. Glad it went well. I've bivied up there more than once, planned and not.

Looking for partner to climb W ridge Stuart and/or Prussic this weekend, Email mbell17 at hotmail dot com.

yesterday the glacier looked like this

Damn, thats one long picket.

Climb: Mount Rainier-Gibralter Ledges Date of Climb: 5/15/2006 Trip Report: Left Paradise at 2:30pm Saturday, rested in a full Muir hut from 6pm to 12am, and summitted at 6am. The best part was having the summit to myself unitl 6:45am when several parties arrived also from the Gib ledges route. The ledges are in good shape and so is the chute. Much better than last year at this time. There are some icy patches at the very top of the chute where it is not very steep. Instead of going right to intersect the DC route I continued slightly left up around crevaces to intersect the DC boot track at around 13,700. I descended via the DC and was back to the parking lot around 11am. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons. Ice screw, biner, and picket found on route! Describe to claim, this offer expires at midnight. Approach Notes: Park and go.

OK, here's beta. Snow starts after the gullies. My partner did not want to go on the snow in rock shoes so he waited for me while I summitted. I switched from rock shoes to boots to kick a few steps in the snow to get to the hand traverse. Then I kicked more steps to traverse across the top of the colour. Belayed with an ice axe I would use rock shoes but since I was soloing I wanted boots to kick steps. Expect even less snow after another week of melting. Go get it.

I climbed S. Arete Saturday and left boot tracks in the snow at the top for my partner who wore rock shoes. Then you can stay on rock almost of the rest of the way down.

I'll do Gib Ledges (yet again). Weather forcast looks good. Email is mbell17@hotmail.com --Mike