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Everything posted by Thinker
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The Myo3 performed well on the glacier this last weekend; the LEDs were fine for following a boot track and the bright beam was plenty bright for routefinding. Found myself very thankful I chose this over the Gemini when comparing headlamps in the dark at camp.
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I went out and compared the Myo3 and Gemini. The Myo ROCKS! For only a few dollars more than the Gemini, it has a beam that really focuses, plus the 3 LEDs are significantly brighter than the Gemini's one or two. I liked the Myo so much I bought one.
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fyi, the WAC will have a group of 25 to 30 climbers on the Easton glacier route this weekend and next, weather permitting.
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I just got an email from another one of their team mates saying 3 out of their team of 5 summited Denali last Thursday. Ryland and Pete were 2 of the 3. Congrats!!!
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Indeed BD is doing exactly that. The new model is available here ; BD is selling off the old syle Geminis here
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It's time to replace my headlamp and I'm considering the BD Gemini or Petzl Myo3. Any experience with either model?
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I don't know much about Grivel strap ons, but other Grivel models (like my 2F's) can accomodate a size 13+ boot using extender bars. Did you check into that option?
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CBS, I was just going to ask what happened to your old pee bottle......
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I woke up Sat night to find my tentmate on his knees, pissing out the tent door into/onto our kitchen. I poked him in the back with my feet, damn near toppling him face first into his mess in the snow. I wasn't real pleased with his lack of manners. IMHO, if you don't want to carry a pee bottle (stinkin' ultralight Nazis), at least put on your down booties and get your ass out of the common use areas!
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Anyone have time to digest this today and run the calcs to answer CBS question? web page And if you finish up the calculations on the cams vs nuts while contemplating your gear placement, you may want to follow up with this one: web page
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see the 'edit' on my post above. Rock n Road is probably your best bet. Also check out the local university climbing clubs for some leads.
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Why, do you go there often? Off the top of my head I remember 2 place right in Kansas City. There's a park in a relatively bad neighborhood with polished limestone sprot climbs, and some bouldering in Swope? park. I'll snoop around for more details. There's a trail that runs thru MO right along the Missouri River with huge limestone bluffs along it...I think it was an old railway that's been turned into a bike path. For some reason all the crags were closed to climbing. I think it was to 'protect' the bikers and hikers from rockfall or something. Anyone know if that's still the case? One of the coolest things you can do in that area is head down towards Columbia, MO and cave the Devil's Icebox. It's in a state park and requires permits, etc. Check it out. edit: it's the aptly named "Cliff Drive" that has the limestone sprot climbs. Toula's Rock n Road had decent directions. Sam's Throne in Arkansas is a short drive away, too.
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Thinker, are you from SODAK? What the hell were you doing way out the middle of nowhere? Just curious 'cause I grew up there before joining the Navy. Lemon, I'm not from SD, but have done time in the area. Just the other day at the pub I was reminiscing about the limestone sport routes at Falling Rock outside Rapid City, Custer County sherriff's deputies (think Larry the Tool lookalikes), and the quartzite at the other end of the state at Pallisades State Park. I've climbed in SD, WY, MN, KS, MO...and wished I'd found some rock in NE and IA. I was utterly shocked to see Kansas' Fall River area featured in one of the climbing rags last year or the year before. From my recollection it was about as big and exciting as Exit 38's Trestle area. But, in Kansas I guess they take what they can get....anybody else climbed there?
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don't knock it til you've tried it!
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Dropping (well, maybe lowering) students into crevasses on the Nisqually and listening to them swear as they prussik back out of the drippy abyss.
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I did some diggin.... the lieback is the traditional start (5.8). I do remember seeing the 5.9 variation you've posted to the right of the lieback. There's an easier alt start to the left of the lieback that collects gumbies. The lieback (scammed from the web somewhere):
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I like my Julbo Colorados I'm typically on Rainier 3 or 4 times a year, Baker a couple, etc, etc, etc.... If I were to go climb in Alaska or the Himalaya I'd defininitely get glasses that block more light. The Julbos seem just about right for the Cascades, IMHO. I pop the side shields when I need more ventilation and let them hang on the side bars. Bronco, which cheap Julbos caused you problems?
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I booked one RT flight to Heathrow thru Delta or United and a separate flight from Heathrow to Barcelona via Iberia. It was a couple hundred $$ cheaper than booking the whole trip thru one airline. Late Sept was still too hot to do much climbing at Costa Blanca during much of the daytime, should have gone to Mont Serrat. Take a mask and snorkel or buy cheap ones there. Rest days (Beaches!) at Sitges and Calpe rock! Climb the Penon de Ilfach at Calpe. Calpe/Penon Check out the Toix sea cliffs!
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I don't have my guidebook here at work....is the 5.9 alt start the lieback? If it is, it's an absoluteley joyous way to start that climb and pass up the gumbies on the variation to the left of it. Nice TR, now you've got me jonesin' for a roadtrip.
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Cats actually dislike the odor of Napthalene, a common ingredient in many moth balls. A few moth balls placed in the fence line, at the gate, or wherever the cats tend to congregate could be another solution to your problem. Try to put them in a dry area, or protect them from the rain (be creative) so they don't dissolve too quickly in the rain. You may want to assess the potential for neighborhood children ingesting the moth balls, though. A phone call to any poison hotline could tell you just how much of a concern that may be (I don't really know if Napthalene is toxic....assume it is.)
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Return to Everest event "Be among the first to see exclusive photos and hear exciting stores from Jim's historic return to base camp. You also have the opportunity to win limited edition 'Return to Everest' apparel." ugh..............
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The Conn Traverse is located a stone's throw from Sylvan Lake, which is near the junction of Highways 87 and 89. The gift shop sells guidebooks, including a little paperback of climbs right around the lake. (fyi, there's also a 'Conn Traverse' on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower) The classic guidebook for the whole Needles area is "Touch the Sky" by Paul Piana. It includes a wealth of historical info and large pull-out maps of the needles.
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"Where's Gary?" became the mantra for my buddy Ed and I on a climbing road trip once. Definitely a story best saved for over beers. I'd give my left nut to hear the stories the Judds, Garys, and other people tell in contrast to our perspectives.
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finally got time to dig into this from here: "A strict vegetarian, the Common Porcupine feeds on leaves, twigs, and such green plants as skunk cabbage, lupines, and clover in spring; in winter, it chews through the rough outer bark of various trees, including pines, fir, cedar, and hemlock, to get at the inner bark (cambium), on which it then mainly subsists. Like many herbivores, the porcupine has bacteria in its digestive tract containing enzymes that help to digest the cellulose and other substances not sufficiently broken down by normal digestive enzymes. This animal has favored feeding trees that can be recognized by their cropped and stunted upper branches and bare wood. Another unmistakable sign of porcupines, often littering the ground under favorite trees, are "niptwigs," terminal branches of trees that have been cut off and their leaves or buds eaten. " and if you're really a geek, check this out: http://wildlife.tamu.edu/publications/NebraskaExtension/CWDPDF/DAMAGE/DAM_ID.PDF
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The damage looks similar to other damage I've seen done by porcupines.