RuMR

Gene, if you could sink it 5" or so, that would be a great test. Alex, 4 holes is fine...its a really light drill and the batteries are pretty light...I could easily see packing 4 batteries up... Its for my son...I'm about to unleash him... ;-) Weight is a HUGE concern...

1/2" and 3/8"

Oh...and no bolting debates in this thread please! (I can hope, right???)

as a drill for bolting??? Heard some good stuff, but it seems too good to be true... Looking to get a drill...this is light and quite a bit less than 24v or 36v drills... cheers Rudy

Yes. Maybe worse. I have a pair for sale which are like new that has only jugged a couple pitches if anyone is interested. THEY TOTALLY SUCK!!! To own this sucakage will be $100. It's not just me, some real well known valley rats have had the same issue, which is you are cruising along and zippppp, they don't grab for an inch or 2. It is caused by not having the jug oriented to the rope properly results in the jug slipping right down in a heart stopping pants filling free fall for you. Followed by an expletive "@@#X!!!@". And it slows me down and wind up getting hesitant. Fortunately, it's short then they grab. I suspect that as it doesn't happen with Petzls...or any other jumar, that old dogs who are use to sliding the jug up the rope in a casual and fast manner are more prone to having it occur. Not everyone has this happen to them, basically, you need to train yourself to slide the thing straight up the rope. Which sounds like an easy thing put that way, but when you're in the groove and cruzin high off the deck...whoosh. @@#X!!!@ Good ones: As for the Totem recall. Non-issue. First, lots of companies are still selling cams that have anodised lobes. Ever see BD even give a shit about that? NO? Me either. BD,DMM, Wild Country still selling anodized cam lobes. Next, Totem did the recall when Totem realized that they could get a marginally better stick on marginal (polished limestone) rock. Realize that their cams already stick as good or better than most anyone elses, even anodized. As they said in the notice, anodizing "...may affect their holding power in certain areas of polished limestone and when the cams still retain their layer of anodizing on the area in contact with the rock." That's only when new, one trip to red rocks and they are all scuffed up. Look at Black Diamond Camalots, Wild Country or DMM's new stuff. Are you suggesting that they are selling gear that should be recalled right now but are ignoring it? See? Totem recognized they could get an incrementally better bite for their already superior cam, so they allowed their existing customers to trade up to what Totem perceived to be a slightly better grip on polished limestone. If they wanted. Or they could take a bit of sandpaper and rub for 3 min. That's amazing customer service IMO, and the Totem folks should be lauded and rewarded for it. , or you could just go climbing with them and it'd rub of on its own...assuming you actually use your gear!! ;-)

This Sunday (maybe evening, will definitely be there by Monday), i will be dropping off a bunch of kid climbing shoes in various states of use at the Redmond Vertical World. Cost per pair of shoes is between $2 and $15, depending on wear and tear. Money will go to the Vertical World Team Fund. Cheers Rudy

MEC has some really nice down bags...

Hey Jens, I sent Drew's futuras to Ramuta. He'd blown threw the "wrap down" toe piece. I'll let you know what John comes up with. I figure worst case is he gets a nice solution minus the downturn. To the original poster, i find that scarpa sizes directly to sportiva. Ie. i wear a 36.5 in sportiva and scarpa. Also, scarpa's current shoe designer designed the sportiva models...so, they should be about the same, and well, Vibram supplies both brands their rubber...

Been there a couple of times many years ago, but i'm old and senile... Let me know... cheers Rudy

hahaha

HA!

Kevin, He absolutely wears a helmet if its slabby, or if there's traversing or if he can fall upside down. Also, multipitch climbs where there are parties above and below.... I'm the same way...sometimes I wear a helmet if the conditions warrant it, otw nope... This route, despite the fact that the footage *appears* to make Chemical Ali look like a slab, is quite steep...with no ledges...

I think Joseph, that a better way to look at it, is that by age 12, Drew has almost a decade of concentrated climbing development as a sport. His technique is amazing, and all of the kids that compete with him share this aspect. Adults will have a hard time developiing the fluidity unless they started as children. This is very evident in the Euros... Strength to weight will only get better with him. He's very light, but won't get super big even after puberty...i wrestled 112 in high school and 118 and 126 in college...

a smoothie made of monkey brains, and gibbon tendons...seems to be working, no? Actually, this blows my mind...and the really scary thing is that he is not unique at all...what kids will be doing ten years from now...oh boy...

Easy Bob...Kimmo knows that route, and is himself a very accomplished climber and climbs with Sean...

With regards to my snapping at Kevin about his post: My reaction has a historical component to it given our past arguments regarding spraying. To me the term "spray" has very definite, chest beating, negative connotations and he is very very aware of my thoughts on this based on previous discussions. He knew that he, himself, posting in this thread, using that term, was likely gonna get a reaction. Its funny that his post was deleted by the mods, and several others commented on it before i saw it as well. Cheers, Rudy PS: Very inspired by these kids. Might actually get motivated to do something about my own sucky climbing these days!!!!

actually Kimmo, with regards to Bailey, he really really worked for this climb. To be frank, he had the physical tools to climb this route over a year ago. His brain was the problem. He freaked out at smith and outdoors. We spent a lot of time (well, i spent a lot of time hiking and belaying him, he spent a lot of time climbing) seeking out more runout "old school" climbs where he was operating in an uncomfortable space (for him) to get his grey matter ready. He invested a lot of time being uncomfortable. I had to practically browbeat him into this approach. He had tried this route earlier and was shutdown. There was no way he was going to link it. He was quite upset with himself, so we developed this approach that incorporated the whole "large base" approach, but with the caveat that they had to be stiff old school routes, not just clip ups...and absolutely no taking was allowed. He had to go for it and the consequences were what they were...no grabbing draws and no takes... In that regard, i believe Bob is right that he didn't just take the approach of "wiring that down to a 5.11", the cheezy approach so to speak. His actual try count is well below ten tries, albeit it was spread out over a season. He is a better climber for it because of this approach and is now more comfortable at his limit. You are right, scarface is nowhere near his limit. Unfortunately, there was no way Chris' little flick can capture the work that went into that redpoint. But Sean knows it internally. Was it fun for him? I don't know...maybe its type 2 fun...it certainly is rewarding though. For what its worth this is the approach that i've taken with Drew.

whatever Kevin...nice backpedal... This post was more about Sean than my boy. Sean has worked unbelievably hard, both mentally and physically, for that redpoint...

Echo that sentiment...absolutely no spray involved...simple statement of what happened in a young guy's climbing ability development... Kevbone, you are an absolute douchebag...don't post in this thread if it bothers you...move on...dick

hahaha Bill... There was definitely some negotiation in getting him to commit and chuck off...

specifically about 17:30 into the video...

Hey Bob... at the end of this video of Sean's big tick there's some footage of Sean's big huck. GO TO THE NEAR THE END TO SEE HIM CHUCKING

HOW TO ROCKCLIMB 101!!!