
bobbyperu
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Everything posted by bobbyperu
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off, you come through every time! love it. you got it, needles is callin in like mid october, lulas got some school shit happening, and i'm trying to put togeter logistics for another, meadows/ east side sierra/ needles/ red rocks thing for october... i,m way fuming, antsy all that... man i love living in washington, cause all the coolest shit is sooo close, and then you just rool south when it gets a little cooler and you find yourself in roadtrip mode and there is so much awesome shit not too far away, ahhhhh yeahhhh, way pumped brotha. are you gonna check out skerik in seattle on wednesday? should be hot! bobby
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yo dogg, you didn't get hosed bro, to be totally hosed you would have stayed home... but on cutthroat theres a shit load of raps as i remember, soak it up, gotta love it, i mean i got wet pressure washing a friggin deck, in west seattle, now thats epic, citys equal bad news, wonderful wa pass whatever the conditions= good shit, right on for gettin out while others sat on lazy asses. bp
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yesa, the needles in cali, in october, what da dilly? does anyone else know what the fuck i'm talking bout? if you don't ya betta ax somebody... wondering if anyones heading down for a fall roadtrip to cali and hitting up the best granite in california, like as good as granite rock climbing gets, like alpine lakes quality and shit... yo know the deal... or do you? how can folks go to cali in the fall and not go here? whatever cant say i mind that people dont, the last time lula and i were there there were two other couples in the whole place, make sure to say whatsup to the lookout woman and check her cookies on sundays, yummmm, but actually i'm getting a little carried away, needles fuckin sucks, yeah shitty, sequoia kings canyon park in general is pretty jingus, fuckit go to the valley, or go bouldering, needles is played... bp
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yo matt, youre a riot dude... playon playa... bp
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hey off, i know you weren't soliciting any route info but your comment about wanting to climb on the west side, well i hope thats not exclusively, cause man o man are there some fun routes on the east side... and good camp spots and belive it or not dripping water to be found for those willing to sniff around, this time last year bart and i found water below chianti while on a wine spires link-up day, it made a big differnce to find water in the middle, we also had a little stashed at the col that we had melted prior, and that was a blessing before and after burgundy, the hikes not that bad. well worth it. also were gonna be using that topo you sent our way real soon, excited to try that route! we also got the gato negro climb in the same area as yours to do still... sooo much goods! have a blast up there maybe we'll see ya there... bp
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it all depends on what youre willing to sacrifice for your happiness and freedom, if climbing is your passion and nothing else can step in the summer time or yearround for that matter, then use creativity, and determination, and you'll find yourself with all the time you want, now finding some sort of balance for all else besides climbing, well thts the hard part, just make sure whatever you do you do it with heart, ya got a passion? but mike layton i think alot of it is just bellingham, you think haggens bad try being a dishwasher at anthonys... i was over it on day 1, but i got the fuck out- quick ,and found somethin better, you do what you can with what you got, my girls in b-ham during the school year so i deal with the lack of good jobs, but then again, being able to ride baker every morning during a season like last winter makes it all worthwhile !
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dave and off... you guys know what i'm talking about, dave was that bumbershoot show last year? cause last summer they friggin killed it!!! great stuff "no more smooth jazz" and the crazy couple dancing around the stage, and the music was just bangin, way rad show, also saw them play red square in b-ham with the two dudes from morrocco, nuts... best show i've seen in b-ham, well bela fleck at the theatre was pretty cool too, and the dance barn... fuck i love good music and theres nothin quite like a good live show...
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oh yes... skerik is fuqin awesome... all his projects ie; critters buggin, crack sabbath, sadhappy, etc. are all super fun, as far as shows go they have it all, if theres any fans out there skerik plays in seattle on wednesdays at the owl and thistle, with this amazing hammond organ player joe doria, and like 5 horns, super hot... also check out stanton moores "flyin the coup" cd skerik, karl denson, chris wood, melvin sparks? and stanton, good shit...
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critters buggin' no gag, checkem' out...
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crack sabbath rocks your mugg, skerics on point...
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the barber pole on liberty bell, then cave route on concord tower, super fun climbing, perfect weather, in the sun, minimal gapeage on the summit,and southwest side of the bell, gotout of the gully descent before group of 4 toting ice axes, and plastics headed down, was fun watching whomever was on e face lexington, brings back fond memories, and saw 2 folks cruze nw corner on news. not only did we score awesome routes never climbed b/f by us, but had them to ourselves, and had entertainment across the spires all day, serenity at the pass on a sunday... lovely, and not too common these days. whatupp with the "robster craw", bugger bradley memorial route on lexington, thats the sweet one... yup bp
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forrest, right on! nice job, thanx for the tr, it was around this time of year last year that lula and i did it and its nice to hear of others scoring on one of the best lines out... i led the dihederal as well, and crazy about that slimy part near the top... but really, that climb brings the exposure, and you cant really top the quality, well thanx again, we were thinking about headin back there soon, sooo much gooods. bp
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TR: South Early Winters Spire, Direct East Buttress
bobbyperu replied to shane's topic in North Cascades
dude, you're a fuckin' clown! nice tr... -
right on ben! you and the twins take the cake for rippin the classics, way to fuckin get after it, end of july... mad props yo, met you'all couple years ago on the sulfide in november, we were snowboarding,and youguys had camped the nite before, fun snow, did colman deming that january with the twins, and fuck, strong skiers and climbers your crew is, i never seen dudes rip ice on tele gear like dat, anyway in my opinion you guys are the real deal... keep it up, way inspiring, o.k. now i'll get off your nuts, and return to roofing, thanx again for the stokeout, bp
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erik, sorry to hear about your friend... hope he pulls through and has a speedy recovery, our thoughts are with him. bp
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forrest, again to everyone out there i have not done this route. i will not do this route. i have been told by folks that i respect to not do this route. but forrest may have a point, it very well may be the coolest thing up there, go find out ya'll, but remember keep those gems a secret! bp
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nelly, first off sorry to be dropping mad replys and shit i just have some thoughts on this area, the main reason i took these guys advice had alot to do with what burdo says in that book... lula and myself checked out his route "rampage" on paisano pinnacle a few years back, lured by the pics in the book and the route description, we were surprised with his descriptions, and found that he and we, have pretty different ideas of whats rad and whats not, i won't waste time and go into details but that climb had like one good pitch and the hard stuff was definatly hard and dirty, and not what was described in the book... in general on routes he's established in the mountains the only one i've found to be right on is the first few pitches of clean break on vasiliki ridge, but then again i haven't done the passanger yet and i hear its great!... bp
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erik, yeah well it seems strange, about that east side being shitty, but what abiut the south east side, when i was up in that couloir between the spires a few years back the rock along the right side looked pretty rad and kinda steep, when i was there i was climbing snow and shit, but many times of checkin this side out from the east butt on sews, if noticed what looks to be cool features up the south and south-east corner, hmmm... the gully is free of snow now and who knows maybe theres a line to be found on that side... i've heard of none, you? also i'm sure you've checked out that rad steep north face of sews while being on news, and while youre rapping off, that route that starts right below the overhanging chockstone looked cool, if we weren't headed to a show in seattle last nite it would've been fun to hop on, have you done it or anything on that side? no of any info? oh well i seem to not be able to get that place out my dome, naw mean? bp
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i have not done the route, and after living in the area for several years, the line has obviously caught my attention. last year we were gonna check it out, and it turned out that my boss at the time, geoff childs, and another local guide had headed up for the same reasons of having done most of the other lines in the area and were looking for somethin new... the burdo book does make the climb sound cool, but before we left to do it i was strongly discouraged from doing it. these two guys have amassed alot of time in the area and climbed everything from stellar to total choss, and they referred to it as one of their least favorites," i wouldn't recommend it to my worst enemy" was how one put it... and frankly if youre comin over for one climb, there are sooo many other choice lines to do. i won't try to dissuade you, as they did me, but just wanted to pass this info along from some sources that know the area. also i was just there yesturday and the bugs are full- on!!! so come prepared, and have fun and an adventure if you do that route,oh and have fun if you try and descend back to your car on the hair-pin side... body armor would be good. again not trying to psyche you out, just trying help out? bp
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dan thanx for the info... i knew someone would eventually respond to my queries on such a cool looking route, glad to hear you had a good time on it, do you remember if it took 3-4" gear or what? how many etc. i know i sound like a little bitch trying to ask about pro and how much of what to bring but these are sizes that i typically dont double up so borrowing more if need be would be a consideration, anyway i'll probably heft more than less when we go, also yeah the nw corner rocks did it the first time a week ago, in the late afternoon,early evening and it was gorgous in the sun, after living in the area for three years i was kicking myself for not gettin on it sooner, in any event was a fun discovery, and beats the hell out of the standard routes in that area, i too was thinking the linking posibilities with those climbs, more like finishing a towers in a day climb over on that aspect being it gets the last rays of the day. anyway muchos gracias hermano, for the info, and your thoughts. bp
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after an absolutly perfect day climbing at the town wall, lula and i decided take that little road right from the parkinglot and cruize mellow style back to town, cool road by the way, anyway we missed our usual stop at zekes for meat to eat, and freaks to meet, so i remembered a little story mr. natural had told me about he and his pops getting destroyed on some giant fuckin burger at this spot we always drive past on hiway 2 the"mountain veiw diner". natural and me are somewhat of burger affacianatos, miners in yakima pretty much set the benchmark for pure size, and a meal there including a double big miner, fries and shake almost took the life of our completly blasted baked friend a few clicks back, vomiting was induced and luckily he made it... anyway natural told me of a sasquatch burger that put it to shame... i never really considered that possible and wrote it off to meat deficiency induced paranoia, i was wrong. when we got there i scanned the menu for some sort of sasquatch thing, and found the bigfoot burger, huge burger huge bun 2 cheeses, all the fixins, etc. etc. at $8.00 i knew we were talkin somethin serious. i order the thing lula gets a classic and we wait in eager anticipation for this best to show its ugly face... the waitress comes are way and shes litterally tipping to the side under the strain in her left arm, oh fuck, what have i done? a bead of sweat rolls down my cheek as a smirk pops on her face. lula sees it first and exclaims looudly: holy shit!!! followed by laughter, i catch my glimpse and am truly humbeled, not even the steeps of index, can step to the intimidation i now feel, looking face to face at the biggest goddamn burger i've ever seen. long story short, the bigfoot burger will kill you! for those who eat for sport though, this is pretty full-on. i'm recuperating nicely and thinking about a nice big cup a black coffee, or better yet a vivache latte enema, yeah checkit next time youre on that state sponsored highway of death, you'll soon realize what they mean cheers bp
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hey all you washington pass climbers... couple of questions on some routes i've been thinking of checkin out, and not found too much first hand knowledge on. first off i walked underneath the serpentine crack route on the west face of liberty bell, on a recent trip and this thing looks pretty rowdy, i've heard from a mazama local that it was " twice as hard as the headwall crack on chianti spire", i've read anywhere from 10+ to 11+... i know difficulty is all realitive between differnt folks, and i found the chianti pitch to be straight forward, this on the other hand looks like way steep fists or rattly fists through a corner and roofy bit on the first pitch, then a cool looking coner system, i will check-it soon but just curious what anyone else has found...pro on the wide pitch? 3-4x?. also was on cutthroat the other day and was intersted in any info on the 1976 choinard,bard,? route on the east face, i know right where the burdo line goes, but again, am interested if anyone has any info on these lines... also, fuck what burdo says about east face of lexington in his cascades rock guide, that route is rad! full-on 5.9 on good rock, the wide pitch has a bolt off the belay, and is steep offwidth, into a tight chimmney, then a cool move and a good cam lead into more exposed offwidthy fun, check it out! great position, and a fun morning route, goes well with e.face of minute man... soooo much goods!!!! thanx for any info, and share your thoughts. bp
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yo goat, cool trip report, and very informative. sounds like you had a sweet trip, in a powerfuly scenic area, with favorable conditions. right on! well i have a question for you; did you take a gander at cloudcap peak while you were in the area, the east, n.e. aspect specifically, much snow on the rock? how about jagged ridge, much snow, and cornices? we will be heading that direction soon to try for a traverse from ruth to shuksan via, icy peak, cloudcap, jagged ridge, and on to shuksan. just psyched to hear your report on what you found, and stoked to get out there for some of that nooksack ambience... thanx in advance for any feedback and info. bp
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looks like fun! nice pics... cool site.