sketchfest

What time do peeps think they'll be there? Weather depending, I'm shooting for something between 4&5:00pm

I say we set up top ropes on every route over on Red Wall, Mountie Style

It doesn't seem to matter if it's sport or trad, I've taken fair size whippers on both, it doesn't really seem to be a a big fear of falling. I think the down climbing idea might be a good one to try. It seems like when I move into the crux I can't make up my mind where to go or what to do and all that wasted time equals wasted energy, then I get pumped, then I fall.

Sounds like a good plan. Thanks for organizing this Mike

I thought this question had come up in a previous thread, but I couldn't find anything when I did a search. My question is, how can I improve my onsight capabilities? I can generally climb .10's without much problem, even get on some easier .11's, but when I walk up to a new route that is within my range or maybe near the edge of it, my brain gets in the way and I struggle like crazy and manage to get myself all pumped out. Who's got some ideas on how to shut that part of my head down so I can just enjoy the climb without all the other crap getting in the way?

Keep your eye on the board, there is usually a call out once a week or so for folks getting out and climbing at Rocky Butte or Broughton's not to mention some weekend activity.

Uhhhmm...cuz he's lazy?

I wouldn't mind hitting Silver Bullet Bluff. There's a couple of nice trad .8s and a one move TR/trad .10c plus some other TR's right there.

See yo's at da butte

Sheeat Ivan, it’s supposed to start raining tonight and not stop until the weekend. The only routes that will be climbable will be the overhanging stuff and since you can barely thrutch your way up .4 what is it you think you’re gonna do out there…..watch??

I've done a search, but came up with nothing...Can anybody give me some info on how to get to ruckle ridge? I'd like to head up tomorrow for a little conditioning hike. Thanks

Maybe there would be less stoned/drunk meth-heads if the news did a feature on the area and drew some attention to the illegal crap that was going on all the time. We may not be the best land stewards, but the climbers seem to be the only ones picking up any of the garbage out there (well climbers and SOLV)

WOW...I am stunned by this ending. I too thought everything was going to be alright when I watched the footage of the NG lifting him off the mountain. My entire family breathed a sigh of relief. My condolences to Peter's family and friends.

It's a great ride. I did it last year while training for a 100 mile mtn bike race. It's very well run and the Plains of Abe are awesome!!!

Geeesh, Bill, yer making me blush...nobody else thinks I climb that way.

Bill, That sounds about right as far as what we climbed. I took the lead and really fought the opening sequence. Lots of balancey smearing, followed by some strong language and eventual whimpering. Even though the crack is thin at the start, it was still very protectable. In fact my first two pieces (first one a 00 Metolius, second one a #3 stopper) held quite nicely as I managed a little whipper that brought me back to within a foot of the ground. I don’t think the route needs any bolts, If “tits” is the route we were on, it was pretty fun and even though a bit run out in spots still takes good gear when you need it. That old block of wood is also a nice touch.

Hi ChrisT! Yeah, I've got the book, but I think this climb is either a new one or a really old one that wasn't included in the PRC book.

Bill's down in Yos. What about Hal Burton, hasn't he done a bunch of stuff down there?

Not to sure about Alpine or skiing during the week, but there's a few of us who try and climb at least one day a week out at Rocky Butte and PC's are pretty hit and miss in PDX.

Last night B-rock and I climbed a route at Rocky Butte, just below Silver Bullet bluff that I'm not sure is in the guide book. Based on the picture in the guide it looked like it was between Centurion and Invisible Man. The route started with a couple of burly moves off the deck following a thin finger crack before traversing right over easier ground, then up another short crack that had an old block of wood wedged in it, up to a ledge, then launching into a very thin, dirt filled crack to a set of fairly new anchors. Does anybody know what this route is called and the rating? Although I struggled and made it look exceptionally harder than it really was, I thought it might have rated in the .9 range. I think the upper pitch could have been Invisible Man, but I'm not sure about the start. (More info: The route could have even been further around the corner from Temporary Arete, there were a couple of very distinguishing features in the route, one being the block of wood in the crack, another being a large pine tree at the half-way point and another being a sharp brittle flake near the top just below the anchors)

I just got off the phone with HRRS and they told me that the first gate would be open by the end of the month, but that the second gate was undetermined due to heavy snow fall and downed trees.

Thanks Chris!

who's got the 411 on the gate opening?? ranger's phone number or first hand info...anything....