Geek_the_Greek

I've got a priceless '76 VW bus, green and white called alternately "the slug" (slow and green), "Rudy", or various 4-letter words. I'm the second owner, and based on receipts, it currently has 440,000 miles on it. We're on the second engine, which is currently being rebuilt, so we're not going anywhere fast for another couple of weeks or so. After that, though, the the heater will be fixed, and there'll be no stopping us! Clearance is good, mileage is lousy (18-20 mpg), but I dig the "recyled vehicle" thing, and repairs and maintenance are really cheap (that is, parts are pretty cheap, and it's easy to do most stuff yourself). Snow traction is good (engine in back, over the drive wheels). Some day I'll camperize it, but now it's great for 5-person road trips, and with the middle seats out, you can fit a couple of kayaks inside. Would I suggest an old VW as a vehicle for MattP? No, not really! I mostly enjoy laughing at myself for owning and maintaining this thing...

I have the step-in sabertooths. They rock - total all arounders, even if they weigh a few grams more than aluminums and are a bit flexy for water ice. It looks like the new bail system is pretty simple and tried and true, even if it's a new item. If that's what you're looking for, a good all around crampon to wear with various boots, I'd say go for it. Looks like you still need the heel welt, though (for the rear step in part) so make sure you're not planning on using them with runners or anything really soft.

quote: I do find it very funny that we ran into a couple of fellows who flatly said 'the route is not in shape' as if it were an fact as indisputable as the sky being blue. They had not even been there. Whoa - that's my buddy Ned Flanders and his friend you guys met! According to him, he said "my friend said that route's out of shape". Of course he hadn't been there - he wasn't pretending anything! A whole lot of lame dissin' on someone who was just making conversation about route conditions. They climbed the east ridge and had a great time.

Found last Wednesday (Oct 30) at UW rock - one fleece shirt. If it's yours, email me with a description and I'll try to get it back to you. Dan@buildering.net (Sorry about the delay - haven't been online since then)

quote: Everything you really need to know is in Freedom of the Hills FOTH, great book that it is, sucks big time for rock anchor building. I hear that is one of the main things the Mounties will be totally redoing for the 7th edition. I second the bid for Long's Climbing Anchors, but that doesn't tell you how to lead, just how to build anchors and place gear. Advanced Rock Climbing, by Long and Luebben, is a better all-around resource - technique, leading, anchors (a bit), essential rock rescue, and the overall gestalt of climbing. Buy that one, and Climbing Anchors, and study them both religiously. But proper one-on one instruction is pretty key too. You might just think about pope's offer...

Is that sarcasm? Come on, I meant it in the best way! You guys were great! I reckon it's about beer:thirty right now... Peace out, yo.

I would like to thank all of you participating in this thread for conducting such a lovely, civil, educational conversation. I felt like I was eavesdropping on a phone call! Good to share a vibe with others working through the weekend. But - so long Crater Lake, I'm outttta heeeerree! Wheee!!! No more field work this year! Ok - had to get that out of my system...

The reverso is just fine for single ropes - 10 - 10.5 mm, and just fine for standard half-ropes (8.5mm). I enjoy the fact that I don't have to constantly feed it when on rappel, but yeah, maybe for caving or if you're constantly doing free-hanging raps you might want some more friction (or a prussik backup). If you're actually climbing with 11 mm or fatter ropes, then the only device that won't be a real pain in the ass is a sport-rigged figure 8 (and forget about belaying two seconds or autolocking), or maybe a gri-gri (same problem).

Based on the overly flat surroundings in the photo, I would say that was taken at the Thunder Bay, ON base, no?

My two cents: Don't rename the route. Route names, other than the descriptive, are whimsical pieces of absurdist art, one of the accepted means of self-expression for first ascentionists. I reckon (guess) that Göran would not particularly want to violate that tradition. I think the memorial idea is ok, but maybe a bit heavy-handed right at the base. The classiest and most evocative climbing memorial I have seen is Memorial Ledge on the Squamish Chief. Not everyone sees it - just climbers, usually those who go out of their way a bit to go there, to see a beautiful place. I don't know if the Coulee has anything similar (somewhere obscure on Agaltha tower? Somewhere on top of the Mesa?), but maybe something could be found, maybe somewhere a bit special, or a place Göran particularly enjoyed. On the other hand, I certainly wouldn't be offended or bothered by a plaque or carving at the base. For what it's worth, I've climbed the route, but am out of state now and won't be able to look at the carving for a few months, likely.

As of today's rates, in Canuckian dollars, Can$800 is US$501.88. It appears TS's drill would present a modest savings over the magazine ad (but don't forget shipping costs, etc.).

Nice tick list, Dru. Looks like you're still exploring semi-remote obscure alpine choss piles in SW BC! May we all be so lucky! Ah, heck I'm just jealous. Mind you, I still don't agree with you about that 'hardcore' article a few years back, but I wish we had done more stuff together when I was in BC. Like Joni Mitchell said "you don't know what you've got 'till it's gone". Maybe I'll see you in Skaha. -D.

I used to believe shit like "when in doubt, run it out". I'm glad I figured out what moronic advice this is.

While sketching out (maybe because you're really pumped) and then falling can be totally scary (especially if you're scared because you know the fall is long, or whatever), I think the most dangerous falls are the ones you don't expect at all. You're cruising along, and then out of nowhere you slip. Maybe your foot jam peels out from nowhere, or that jug you're hauling up on suddenly breaks off. You have no time to prepare, no time to get your legs away from the rope or jump away from the wall, no time to avoid the ledge a ways below or grab for a draw. In my first year of leading I was on Jabberwocky, 5.10a at Squamish. I had trouble with the cruxy start, but then got up a bit, placed a nut, got up further, placed another nut, and was past the crux and started to feel good about it. As I was standing up on a toe jam, it just slipped out. I was right above my last nut, so I wasn't too worried, but didn't have time to adjust. Then, all at the same time, I felt something click, a quick burn on the back of my leg, and was suddenly hurtling towards the ground headfirst. The rope stretched out, my belayer screamed "holy shit!" and my (unhelmeted) head bobbed within 4 feet of the rocky ledge. What happened was that my top nut pulled out, and as that happened and I fell downwards, my calf was suddenly in front of the rope below me. I got flipped upside down and got within 4 feet of likely death. My bottom (and only remaining) nut held. I learnt (also from other experiences) that if you know you're going to fall, it might be scary as hell, but it's a lot better than falling without knowing it's coming. Put in more gear, put in good gear, because you could slip out of nowhere, and it might not be at the crux. Another time the crack I was on had a wasp's nest in it, and right at the crux I got stung 4 times. I cursed up and down a blue streak, but managed not to fall off....Now I always wonder "what if I got stung by bees all of a sudden here?" I also got a helmet which I climb with religiously.

Man that was intense...all the bleeps and blips you can desire. I feel vaguely molested, and unworthy. I guess no one else was on after all?

quote: Anyone interested in a few old dried out dung balls? Only if they're laid out on a tarp!

Dog, As far as I can tell, this is a bulletin board for climbers in the Cascades (give or take a few). There's plenty of climbing talk, and the usual humor, BS, and smack going around. Why get all serious about something that clearly isn't? Nobody's forced into anything here - if you don't like it, get lost.

quote: it happens i like my job, i climb whenever i want. i am not the one stuck with some dead end job, with nothing else to do, but to surf the net. sounds pretty miserable to me. you see you pathetic losers i made some life choice that allowed me to climb pretty much full time for years. and all the rest of you wankers just dream about it, and try to thrash anyone who actually put their ass on line and made it.Um, I'm happy too, and my job's pretty swell. I get to climb plenty. I'm delighted you've "made it". What seems to be the problem then, Hugh?? It seems unclear why you climb. I've always liked Fred Nicole's philosophy "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Have fun!

Well, I though the title had an academic "leisure studies" ring to it.... Nice article! Can't we all just get along?

Yeah, but I think Ford was wrong on that one. I believe he said that the economy would not survive if workers couldn't afford the products that they were making. I don't know why he said this - would the workers revolt? That's exactly what is happening in many parts of the world - workers are making shoes, clothes, toys, computer chips, etc. that they cannot afford themselves.

Try forest products....(that is, wood & paper, most of which is imported from Canucks and others). Or, we could just use less.... ...yeah, like that'll happen! I don't see a lot of bananas (most popular fruit in the US) grown here, either, but presumably they would be easier to do without. The US economy would quickly collapse without the global network. If overseas investment in the US alone ended suddenly, it would send businesses spiralling to destruction here. It would be the end of society as we know it! Yay!

Bah, troll for the typical tired arguments between flag-waving patriots and lefty US-apologists. This should be in spray. Doesn't send chills down my spine.

Man, I can't wait to hear how this climbing date goes! Just the guy you want belaying you.... "oh shit - take!" "you fuckin pussy! Kurt Smith could do that move in his sleep. 10 feet of penalty slack..." "fuck off assmunch!" "suck mine you Kurt Smith buttbuddy!" (needed an excuse to get past Wanker status)

When I'm worried, I use the Pristine 2-step drops thing (sold in Canada, haven't seen it in the US). It makes a chlorine dioxide solution, as used for decades in a number of European communities. Totally safe (way more than iodine), and tasteless if you do it right (otherwise tastes a bit like pool water). Simpler and more effective than filters (does viruses too), but does take 15 minutes to work.

Hmm. I've wondered about this too. The doctor may be on to something here quote: Actually, come to think of it, the Doctor hasn't seen many black people out boating or backpacking, either. I recall a fellow from the forest service (Mt Baker/Snoq.) talking to one of my classes, also wondering aloud how, year after year, so few non-whites were ever recreating in the woods. Perhaps people, other than the innovators, generally need a cultural role model. Any sociologists care to comment? Tiger Woods brought golf to the interest and attention of new groups of people. I think Mike Freeman was a black climbing 'celebrity' of sorts in the early '90's (I could be way off here), but I doubt the exposure was anything most folks would notice. I've certainly seen people of all races at the gym, but less so outside.