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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. Ohh... you didn't like that one eh? How about this one?
  2. The weather is looking pretty crappy. What are ya'll planning on doing this weekend?
  3. Careful out there guys/gals:
  4. I'm just testing an image post. Please ignore.
  5. I bet that was a typo and he meant 12th or maybe they have a different calendar system in Canada?
  6. I don't remember anything that I would call a "gully" on the descent. When I did it in late May last year it was a casual plunge-stepping affair with a couple of open cracks that were easily avoided. It's fairly steep, so if icy you might want to put in a picket or two while above the cracks. There are a couple of spots where it wouldn't be good to start sliding, but I felt very comfortable without pro, just crampons & axe.
  7. Alpinfox

    stickers?

    That sounds promising. Fejas?
  8. Superfly has sharp points on it and no case, though you could make one of course. It doesn't fold up to a very small size either. It is nice that it can take Gaz cartridges though. I like the pocket rocket and the snowpeak for small canister stoves. P
  9. Hi Steve, Take a look at my post about the Stuart Glacier Coulior
  10. Hmm... The day of our approach hike it was pretty cool and mostly cloudy with occasional sunbreaks and a few little snow/rain mixed flurries. I don't remember what it was like the day before that. On the day of the climb, we had intermittent clouds and occasional snow flurries. It was breezy and the temperature was right around freezing. We hoped it would be cooler to stabilize all that shizit, but my feet got pretty cold belaying as it was, so maybe that was for the best. A general note for folks heading up that way. We saw a huge avalanche early or mid-afternoon on the ice cliff glacier that came right down across the climbing route. I've heard others talk about big avys coming down there too. I'd be very wary of that route, even though it looks like a boatload of fun.
  11. Hi Mark, I'm curious if you encountered any rockfall in the coulior? I was there in late May last year and my partner and I got buzzed and thwocked by lots of smallish rocks. I think the temp was a little higher than ideal when we did it. What do you estimate the temp was on your climb? When we climbed there was enough fixed gear/slings along the east (climber's left) side of the coulior for rapping, though we went over the top and down the Sherpa. That west ridge was heinous with big snow mushrooms all over the "mid 5th class" rock. Congrats on your ascent and descent!
  12. You forgot "What" What is he talking about/showing?
  13. Gotta look out for that devil's club.
  14. This website has some great interactive panoramic pictures of the crags. This link is for "The Gritscone": http://www.deceptioncrags.com/FarSide/Gritscone/Pano/index.htm I'll have to check that out next time I head up to 38.
  15. Just because something is higher-tech doesn't mean it is less safe. Look at automobiles. It seems pretty obvious that some new Volvo with ABS/SRS/Chest belts is a lot safer than an old corvair (or whatever that car was that Nader got his panties in a bunch over). In general though, I appreciate the KISS rule.
  16. Great. That description sounds right. Thanks Colin. So there are rap anchors on all climbs? Would you give the routes any stars? I really like that footbridge, even though it is "overbuilt". It reminds me a bit of a Calatrava design, quite elegant.
  17. From the Exit 38 guidebook: "The upper portion of Overhaul Wall and eastward are of a granitic nature, usually with slabbier, high-friction faces." "The caprock on Overhaul changes dramatically to a very solid, subtly featured and gritty stone". Is that the stuff you are talking about?
  18. Which crags are cong. sandstone?
  19. 38 is blocky, unaesthetic stuff. "Rhinoite" or whatever the hell. It's pretty much all bolted climbs. The road noise and gunfire detract from the already mediocre experience. Car prowling is common at the trailhead (this can really ruin your climbing day, week, month, year). 38 is definately a good quick climbing fix due to its proximity, but I second MattP, it's no "destination" area. 2500 posts, wow!
  20. Hey, Anybody know anything about those slabby, north-facing slabs beside the Middle Fork of the Snoqualamie River facing Mt. Garfield? I remember seeing about four or five bolted lines. They were running with water and had a good deal of slime on them when I saw them a few weeks ago.
  21. Alpinfox

    Skaha

    I assume you've seen this? http://www.skaha.org I've never been there, so I can't offer any first-hand beta/advice. Cheers,
  22. I thought you were talking about a Castle Rock person... Yes I know what Castle Rock (Leavenworth) is. OK. Well it seems I have definately been outvoted on this issue (even by the newbie who wieghed in). Newbies: Apparently the concensus is that you are best off with a rack of passive pro to start out. I still disagree, but that is only my opinion. Cheers,
  23. Who is Mitch and why should I care? Are you suggesting I shouldn't discuss this important topic because you don't know who I am? That's pretty juvenile. Go back to your sorority gossip threads Erik. I don't know who Castle Rock is either, so I have no idea how to interpret your comments. Try to say things a bit more relevant and internally consistent to the discussion at hand. Perhaps you could even put in your "two cents" on the issue of what a newbie's rack of pro should look like. Maybe I shouldn't expect much else than spray and personal insults on this website. p.s. How did I take "the bible" out of context fence-sitter? I even quoted "somewhat less reliable" bit? That seems like a pretty honest and complete quotation to me.
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