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jordop

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Posts posted by jordop

  1. June 22nd noon-8pm

    I biked by shortly after 1PM, and there must have been a couple hundred people standing in line. It started raining 20 minutes later, so that might help move the Gore-Tex.

    Farking ridonkulous :tdown:

  2. Time to Take a Break from the Studying

     

    Guy #1: I'd totally hit that.

    Guy #2: Dude, I'd hit that so hard whoever could pull me out would become the King of England.

     

    --College Walk, Columbia University

     

    Overheard by: King Arthur

     

    More overheards below some are just too funny

     

    Over Heard In New York

     

    Maybe that was this guy:

     

    Prince Charles, according to one lover, “likes to be called Arthur when he climaxes.”

     

    http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/books/2007/06/25/070625crbo_books_lanchester

    :blush:

  3. knotzen said:
    archenemy said:
    If you read a bit of literature, you'll find that their is no definable "addictive personality".

     

    Like with so much of psychiatric medicine, I'm sure there is a difference of opinion on that*. I think of "addictive personalities" as people who regularly practice obsessive behaviors, and who use things--food, alcohol, drugs, sex--to escape and not face the realities of their lives. Often when they manage to stop one addictive behavior, they replace it with another**.

    archenemy said:

    And there are plenty of people out there who specialize in just this form of therapy.

     

    I know that. But they are rarely used for eating disorders like obsessive eating. They need to be.

     

     

    * I'm not trained in psychology or psychiatry--merely talking from my life experience.

    ** I'm not talking about the middle-aged person whose metabolism slows and they gradually put on a few pounds a year, or people who gain weight from taking a certain medication or from lying around with a broken leg, etc. I'm referring to obese people who constantly think about food, like my mother, who uses food to medicate herself, if you will. They are like bulimics, only they don't purge--they just become obese.

     

     

    .

  4. I think Zoran is talking about the East Ridge route on Atwell - which is a more technical and usually climbed earlier in spring, versus the easiest route to the summit of Garibaldi proper which is typically done from the Warren glacier and has technical difficulties similar to other standard routes on cascade volcanoes.

     

    Garibaldi from the NE is straightforward snow, with only the bergschrund to worry about later in the year. When climbing from Elfin Lakes, the SE face (easy snow) tops out on the plateau from whence the actual summit is 30m of steep dirt in summer or waterice in spring. Sting in the tail on an easy climb.

  5. Gore%20Vidal.jpg

     

    "Our people don't read. And if they did read, they wouldn't understand. They have no clue what other countries are like. We've convinced ourselves that we're the envy of the Earth, that evil countries want to destroy us because we're good. I haven't talked to an Italian for years who had any idea of going to America for anything except drugs or sex."

     

    http://www.rbcinvest.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/ArticleNews/PEstory/LAC/20070609/COVER09/Headlines/headdex/headdexComment/2/2/20/

     

  6. Scuzzy once built an anchor out of two aliens on the E face of Despair near Wadd and then Stemalot ran it out on 30 meters of 5.10 o/w with no pro above the alien anchor.

  7. I will probably be using snowshoes, sorry skiiers. For the approach via elfin lakes, what do people consider to be the ideal higher base camp. I think there is the glacier right below Dalton Dome that might be reasonable.

     

    Just stay at the cabin and you don't have to take a tent - camping below the E face of Atwell in hot summer sun might get some rock/snowfall. Summit is only ~2-3 hours from base of Atwell E face anyway . . .

  8. It was exactly the situation in which most climbers would have used a cordelette... because they believed it was a tool to equalize a three point anchor.

     

    It is directly because of this accident that professionals and guides have reevaluated the cordelette and found it wanting.

     

    Yeah but the great thing about 5m of 7mm is that you can use it for rescue hauling, you can use it for crevasse extractions, you can use it for prussics, you can throw it over a boulder, you can throw it over a bollard, you can untie it to thread behind a chockstone or icicle, and you can leave it behind cause it don't cost no thing.

     

    Drawbacks aside, the cord's versatility outweighs its seemingly minor drawbacks.

  9. i dunno - forecast for sat/sun for here is high +17/low+13. I think that spells S L U S H I E Z

     

    Saturday..Periods Of Rain.

    Alpine High Plus 2.

    Rainfall Amounts 5 To 10 Mm.

    Freezing Level 2200 Metres.

    Mountain Top Winds Southeast 10 Km/H Becoming Southeast 30 To 50 In The Afternoon.

     

    5 Day Trend..A Cool And Unstable Airmass Will Give Showers On Sunday And Monday. A Weak Ridge Building Over The Region Tuesday Will Give Drier Conditions.

     

    Sunday.. Cloudy. 60 Percent Chance Of Showers.

    Rainfall Amounts Trace.

    Freezing Level 2200 Metres.

    :battlecage:

     

     

  10. Trip: Downton Chronicles Part XII - Endless Run in the Season that Won't End

     

    Date: 5/26/2007

     

    Trip Report:

    JMace and I went looking for some steep couloirs last weekend and though we got snowed on and ended up doing some moderate snow scrambling instead of real climbing, we spotted this killer deal on the drive out:

    DowntonBranch3.jpg

     

    The thing looked like one of the best runs I'd ever seen. On the map it was 2500' from summit to treeline. I've explored pretty much the enitre Downton now, climbed pretty much all of the 26 odd peaks that encompass the 40 odd kilometers of alpine ridges that cirlce the headwaters, but never really thought about the skiing in there. Layton and I had climbed this thing a few years ago while trying to enchain the whole traverse, and I vaguely rememebred some cool ski stuff back there.

     

    Surprisingly, PB and KT were down on this, seeing just how far this ridiculous ski season could be extended. After only about 20 mins of carrying our skis we were skinning up through open timber and into the bowls. Amazing ski terrain. The run looked killer, but the weather wouldn't fully clear. We couldn't get up the final summit chute due to crazy ass winds and blowing snow, so we gave 'er from the NW shoulder:

    Melvin1.jpg

     

    The run goes in about 3 main parts. Off the upper bits:

    Melvin2.jpg

     

    Then into the main parts of the slope:

    melvin3.jpg

     

    And then the final bottom third which is this wicked twin bobsled run on morainal drainages, PB and KT each coming down different sides:

    melvin4.jpg

     

    Skied right down back into the cut block, 20 mins hiking to car.

     

    This run is freakin incredbile, on par with Cayoosh N glacier for sure. Peak is unnamed, ski season is still all upons :rawk:

  11. They must be taking a tantric dinner break cause it's all quiet now.

     

    Keef Richards once reportedly flushed a pile of coke down the toilet backstage at a Stones concert when his manager rushed into the room and told him, "Keith, the POLICE are here!"

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