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jordop

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    Slesse fatality yesterday?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    In today's rags:

    http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/news/story.html?id=3dd1407d-6445-49d4-ad9b-66ea9a35d7ba&k=43470

     

    Body of missing climber recovered

    Chantal Eustace, Vancouver Sun

    Published: Tuesday, September 25, 2007

    The body of missing climber was recovered from Mount Slesse in Chilliwack this week, close to the spot where he fell into an icy crevasse during a climbing accident in July.

     

    Sertac Olgun, 31, a Turkish student living in the Abbotsford area, was hit by falling ice while climbing with a friend on July 7, said Upper Fraser Valley RCMP spokeswoman Const. Lea-Anne Dunlop, in a media release today.

     

    When his friend could not locate Olgun, he hiked five hours to locate help, Dunlop said.

     

    Members of the Provincial Emergency Program determined the chance of Olgun's survival to be unlikely, she said, after a rescue team surveyed the area of the incident using a helicopter. Two days later, they determined that even a recovery mission was too dangerous.

     

    "Recovery was delayed in order to perform a safe extraction, and was made possible by snow melt," said Dunlop.

     

    Chilliwack Search and Rescue recovered Olgun's body on Sept. 19 - about 300 metres from the scene.

     

    Dynafit bindings- leash or brakes?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    After railing against leashes, I now realize that since they don't make brakes >100mm, I'll be using some sort of leash system for the new PowderBillyBroBrah setup.

     

    I've bent the crap out of my Freeride brakes to make them fit bigger skis - anybody know how how pliable/resiliant Dynafit brakes are?

    Dynafit bindings- leash or brakes?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    I've found that having the brakes on makes it quite a bit more difficult to rotate the turret between touring modes easily on the fly (i.e. with ski-pole, not stooping down).. . I think from a avvy safety perspective, brakes are safer since you would get free from the skiis making for easier swimming to stay afloat. Conversely, leashes would prevent you from losing a ski completely on a steep descent.

     

    Agreed, pick your posion for that one.

     

    I find getting Dynafits on in deep powder is difficult. Having brake to fumble with as well would just be that much more of a pain.

     

    Bullshit, you just step in.

     

    the brakes suck. make your own leashes from some accessory cord and a mini-biner or clip.

     

    Bending over with a big pack to do up a leash is STOOPPID. Brakes add weight, sure, but leashes are lame with a big pack.

     

     

     

    Preseason stoke!

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    I tried to post a link to the McBride Range Jordop and I did back a few years ago. I can read it, but I can't seem to link it from Bivouac. :cry: That was in my top 3 all time ski trips.

     

    You mean better than that time we "skied" in Phelix Creek on 3 inches of snow? :cry:

     

    McBride was an awesome trip!!

     

    4935_mcbCamp.jpg

     

    4935_wolvpass.jpg

     

    4935_forgergl.jpg

     

    1713_westsirrich.jpg

    [TR] Flaming Moe's NW Buttface - 9/9/2007

    in British Columbia/Canada

    Posted

    I tried to climb the thin gully to the right of the Owls couloir once, no dice, there was a hidden waterfall mid height. If it were frozen it would have been nice WI2. We got onto the rock rib on the right side, which looked like nice easy 5th to that schweet snow arete, but my partner was mentally done from almost getting hit by a rock earlier so we bailed.

     

    The following from Drew on bivouac - don't think he can access his own shit anymore, so here's a paste:

     

    Verbally reported by Guy Edwards to this author, G.E. soloed the thin ice line to the right of the Snowy Owl couloir in early October that leads up to the Weart-Owls col. (on Select Alpine p 206 this line is visible as a very thin white line on right side of the page). Sounds like some WI4 and mixed from Guy's description. He then finished up by climbing the possibly previously unclimbed NE ridge of Weart to the summit and descended the standard route. GE day tripped this route from the parking lot

    The same day, Mike Down and partner climbed a snow and ice line (with some rock?) between Weart N face route and Guy's line, ending on Wearts NE ridge, and also continued off the mountain via the same route as Guy.

     

    This makes a total of 4 routes on the north side of the Weart/Owls massif, most are a bit (~100m)longer and slightly harder than the routes on the N side of Wedge, and the crowds are not as bad either. An option worth considering for summer and fall ice.

     

    (10/26) Received the following info from Brian Kelsch concerning the line he climbed with Mike Down:

    Hi Drew, just a short note regarding the new route that Michael Down and i climbed that you reported. it turned out to be 4-5 pitches from the schrund to the col of alpine ice gr3. it finishes in a great location to head west up the final arete to one of the lesser Weart summits. we were wondering who that was down below us on a nice crisp sunny day solo. we noticed the tracks on the ridge when we topped out and admired the energy of this travler. we called this route the "weart remover".

    [TR] Flaming Moe's NW Buttface - 9/9/2007

    in British Columbia/Canada

    Posted

    Trip: Flaming Moe's NW Buttface -

     

    Date: 9/9/2007

     

    Trip Report:

    Don and Jmace were headin up to try the N face of Weart, so PaulB and I hopped on with our own idea to check out Mt Moe, a very seldomly climbed thing north of Weart. I had never heard of anyone going up it, despite it being easy from a few sides, and intensive studies in the maproom indicated some steep contours on the NW side :grlaf:

     

    Stupid long trail, swore I'd never do it again, but even on busy weekends there's lots of room for a peaceful camp:

    wedgecamp.jpg

     

    Nice 4am wakeup call:

    4am.jpg

     

    Started trudging up towards the Armchair glacier in the dark, trying to forget all the bold contour lines:

    armchair.jpg

     

    But after a little rest stop, Don was feeling pretty ill, the victim of some killer hoisin sauce the night before, and decided to head back to camp. Jesse, who also partook of the black stuff, ended up wafting some brutal fumes all day long. I had almost ruined a belay the previous weekend, so I guess it was payback.

     

    After sunrise we realized that these mountains really have about 6 hour approaches, which is sofakingweetahded. We had a good look at Weart and although the rock start was filled in and conditions were freaking frigid, there had been a whole bunch of debris slides down it which had chunked up the main face pretty good:

    weart.jpg

     

    So we took a look at Moe: NW buttress is left skyline. Some have wondered about a possible W arete, but it didn't look too appealing up close:

    moenw.jpg

     

    Deciding we needed to get out of the insane wind, we went for Moe and trudged down to the base of the route where the NW buttress looked good, but was kinda indistinguishable from the NW face. Starting up the rock was pretty good: some loose shit on ledges, but lots of great jugs. Mostly 4th, but some low 5th.

     

    Most of the time we stayed just right of the NW buttress and had some great climbing on sound rock, rope still in pack.

    ridge2.jpg

     

    ridge1.jpg

     

    ridge3.jpg

     

    At one point Jesse almost took the grand tour when a block he was standing on fell away, but mostly solid stuff up to the summit:

    summit.jpg

     

    Good climb - maybe like a longer, more serious version of the NW ridge of Vayu. Sticking to the ridge proper the whole way would involve some scary knife edges on teetering blocks, so the route is more like a buttress/face combo deal. No idea if anyone's climbed on this side of Moe; it's worthwhile but pretty far away.

     

    Pond:

    pond.jpg

     

    The secret ingredient is cough syrup :tup:

    j8EyvFgd_Kw

     

     

    Where have all the Bibs gone? :-(

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I haven't worn/needed/taken gore in the winter, iceclimbing, -30 below mtneering, multi-day ski traverses, whatever, in 7 years, and very few of my partners have either. For the users I know, the drawbacks of powershield/schoeller are FAR less than those of laminates.

     

    The only situation I have ever thought about wanting a laminate is on wet/lowangle iceclimbs of more than a few pitches. Otherwise, the heat I generate by moving is more than ample to keep the water on the other side of the fabric. Fuck, the Scandahoovians have known about this shit for years and stupid North Americans think that before goretex everybody had a really bad time in the winter.

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