Farrgo

Has anybody tried to get up to cruiser from the other side of Sawtooth ridge, from Mildred Lake? I was up there in August and tried to find the path up to the ridge but decided not because of the bushwacking. Does anybody know of a decent trail taking off from the lake? I was thinking it might be easier (quicker) to head up the less brushy slope toward Lincoln and take the ridge all the way over? Any thoughts?

I've been using these OR nylon mittens. I've never had a problem and for all but the coldest days your natural body heat will supply enough warmth that you won't need anything else. A definite plus is that they are pretty much the cheapest glove that OR makes.

Alpanist Andrew and myself went up on Glacier Peak this weekend. We did our approach on Friday evening and camped out at the junction of the White Chuck Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail. Initially we planned on an early start, but abandoned that idea when the hour rolled around and started from camp at about 9ish. The climb is snowfree until about 8,000 feet when you reach the Sitkum Glacier. The glacier is fairly crevaced and has one tricky section near the cleaver where you have to navigate between some deep crevaces. It feels like full on winter conditions up towards the summit (cold and windy, with rime ice). A bit of a slog but you have some great views.

I dropped my climbing shoes off for my third resole at the jantzen beach rei and just got a call tonight telling me that they wont resole my shoes again and if i try to sneak them by for another resole, they will take my shoes. am i getting hosed here or is there a decent reason for this? the leather is in good condition on the shoes still so i dont have any clue why they wont resole them again!?

Is there such a thing? I was trying a lead at broughton bluff on the spring, and I put a cam in a flaring crack (which was the only place to put pro within the first 20-25 feet) and it held body weight but didn't look like it would hold a fall because the cam heads were tilted back. then when i started to climb above it, i walked it out of the crack. I understand this last issue was probably because i should have attached a longer sling or q-draw to the cam instead of just a biner. but does anybody have some suggestions on how to protect flaring cracks, or do you just run it out?

Does anybody have any information (or know where I can find some) about the Flagstone climbing area somewhere in Oregon. Particularly how do I get there? I heard that they are predominately slab climbs with some single pitchers and multi pitchers. Is this correct? Thanks.

"It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun." -Twight? "Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are withing reach." -John Muir

Myself my dad and his buddy went up to broken top this past weekend. The trail is snow free all the way to park meadow. But once you start going up hill at the far end of park meadow its a snow climb all the way to the saddle. From the saddle on up the climb is snow-free though. With the snow just starting to melt off the bugs are out in force so bring your juice or else. We did the climb a day sooner than we planned because anything was better than being mosquitto bait for a day.

Josh K, i'm actually living down in PDX area right now. There's no way I would drive from the ham just for broken top either. Haven't heard anything about this climb, figured it was gonna be really chossy just from the looks. Thought i'd take a peek for myself though.

I'm thinking about going up Broken Top this weekend 6/28. Wondering if anybody could shead some light on what conditions might be like? Is there snow at Golden Lake. How are the ridges should they be a scramble right now or are we gonna have to deal with any snow? Thanks

I'm moving down to PDX area, actually Battle Ground, on 6/15 and am looking for partner's for rock (trad, sport) or alipine. I've been climbing for four years so have some decent experience and intermediate skill level (follow 5.11ish, lead 5.10ish). I'm up for some evening cragging at Carver or Broughton or something and I have 3-day weekends Friday-Sunday so I've got time for longer alpine trips. Send me a PM!

I took a 30 footer on some easy 10 at Smith this January. Just got a bunch of slack so i could clip the FOURTH bolt, popped off a crimper and hit the deck. No injuries luckily.

I'm thinking about switching from plastic doubles to leather boots for this season. Was looking at the LaSportiva Eigers. Wondering if anyone has any imput on them as an all season boot for mountaineering and ice climbing. Also looking at the LaSportiva Lhtose but thinking that they might be a little bulky or cumbersome for long approaches. Any imput?

Mister E, I'm game from some trips up to Squish or elsewhere. I'm about at your level for sport and bouldering but no where near your trad level. I can follow though! I'll be in town until mid-June so if your not uneasy about climbing with a college kid send me a pm.

I got the MEC Pamir Jacket earlier this year and I wear it almost every single day. It's made out of Polertec Powerguard material with Powerstretch under the arms. It's 100% against the wind and has a very light fleece lining to add a bit of insulation. I've worn it ice climbing a couple times and even after it got soaked on a dripping climb it still insulated very well. I think it's a steal for the $155 CAD asking price which translates out to roughly $95 USD.

Just to clear some stuff up. I went up with Alpinist Andrew on Guye. We saw some cracks up there but we had a hard time telling if they were older weaknesses in the snow base because they were melted out a bit or if they were new and had just melted out because it was raining so friggin much. Neither of us are avalanche experts so I can't really help y'all out on the technical aspects of the snowpack. All I know is once we saw these cracks we treid to stay where there was the best footing or hurried across any suspect areas.

Trying to plan a week trip down to the Sierra's for possibly some ice or alpine routes. Does anybody have any suggestions given the season and this year's weather. I don't know what's typically in this late in the year? Thanks.

I just went ice climbing for my first time up in Lillooet and I realized that I really don't have any gloves that are any good for ice climbing. My gloves are either functional and not waterproof or waterproof and bulky, not functional. Any opinions on what a good glove that is waterproof and not really bulky?

Okay, so I've done a bit of mountaineering and glacier travel and I want to start climbing some alpine and waterfalls. I've been shopping a little bit for tools but I've realized that I really don't know which tools would be best for my style? I plan to do mostly alpine stuff, although I would like to do some waterfall ice. Any suggestions?