Szyjakowski

quote: Originally posted by Paul detrick: good luck, I don't think that thing gets climbed much. Actually, nface today but, didn't see any qdraws on the sface...sorry.. great day to be out in the cascades...it sounds like they got most the spot fires out in ltown too...good job fsircus..imean service.

quote: Originally posted by erik: i wonder when the last time the original finnish was done for d.l.? anyone here even done it?? anyone here wanna go do it? i am sure it hold high dirt appeal! mmmmmm....dirt. Did a new dirt route on scw last weekend...very good dirty lieback to a dirt/lichen encrusted chimney that closes up to smaller than head size before being covered by a giant flake (solid) After the flake amongst a smattering of typical sc chickenheads the chim finished with a fist crack. to the top of the tower is easy cracks. Location far right near FS wilderness boundary marker. BTW the concensus after all four of us reached the top. 5.9ish 3.5stars pro4" Tempting Goulie

hey Ian I live in Darrington during the weekdays and can get out after work 4-5pm (big granite domes to climb) Weekends where ever PM me and will set something up. Ben

quote: Originally posted by Highlander: check yours [ 07-06-2002, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

highlander check your pms

KISS-keep it simple stupid....don't bolt within arms reach of cracks and there will never be issues or crowded cliffs...if only everything in life was so simple.

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I need partners beginning mid week this coming week for the next few weeks. E-mail me at willstrickland2@hotmail.com. I'm a dirtbag so I need weekday partners too. Mountain biking too?Any takers? right now its a full moon tonight...but Im not a dirtbag just a freeloader... Anybody for that matter...lets go ...950moonrise..

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Come on guys, can't we all just hate each others guts and get on with it? Yeah I hate Eri"c" with a passion and you Retrowheenie are gay as they come. and what up with that caveman bitch he is so Dumb. and Rat, well I am fumming so bad right now.........he/she/it can go find a hole to hide in before I send my buddy's dogs to eat his eyes out and piss on his ropebag!! but of course, my anger is only as temporary as I stare at this stuuupid screen.

Quote from PeterPuget "Am I correct in concluding that this is a indirect way of saying that Viktor is a crack bolter. If so, have you discussed this issue with him. What was his response? If not why slam him publicly without first giving him the courtesy of a direct discussion?" Fine I personally did not discuss this issue with Viktor...I do plan too. However, the reason I stated this is because during my ascent of a particular route near Weiner and Leaner on Icicle buttress (the same route dberdinka refers too)...I was told the reason the crack was bolted was due to the flakey (chossy) nature of the crack. Viktor and company did not feel it was safe nor would the rock hold a fall on a piece...having climbed the route I disagree. Yes it would be hard to protect because the crack is fairly steep and angles rightward with a good lieback edge on the downside of the fissure but, with a little creativity one could prevail. The crack does continue rightward but the bolts continue straight up into slab heaven which does have one tricky move exiting the crack system and then lots of smearing and typical icicle slab moves...not amazingly stellar...but fun moves on the short crack section. All in all the route is not a continous crack pitch (since it continues up instead of rightward) but the reality is there are bolts near a crack something that is considered by Viktor himself as a no no (which he has more or less stated to me in the past just not in those exact words...it was a while ago) Other bolted routes between Crude Buddah and Poison Ivy crack (Purina Crag--black water streaked rock) have also appeared recently...my friend climbed them and was appaled to find many large and small cam placements near bolts (I think he has subsequently gone back and climbed with gear). Projects in the vicinity proteus and speckled gums (near spaghetti sauce)on IB have been incorrectly stated as retro bolt-jobs to old routes...I looked at them today...and they appeared like legitimate sport climbs--whoevers they be. Just like bouldering, sport climbing is a form of rock climbing...I love to participate in all forms or climbing including these mediums. My concern is some climbers have lost the vision of why they continue to climb which for me is to be scared, cheat gravity and climb all those gifts of nature. Cracks are natural, uncontrived lines... face climbs are the first ascentionists choice of where to bolt...a contrivance. The point I was trying to get across is bolts do not need to be near cracks no matter how big or if they go the wrong way...i don't understand why they are now becoming more prevalent.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Rumor has it rock there is chossy and not worth the 20 mile round trip hike. Go to da Toof! including what the capt says, the rock is also so fukin hard it hates bolts!!!!!!!!!!! Bends and breaks the drill bits.... Furthermore climbers get no special privileges from the rangers...and those snafflehounds are rope eating bitches...stay away...far away. Like exit 38.

quote: Originally posted by sk: Do you have any proof that thease wrong things are being done only by gen xers? I realy want to know. the bolting of cracks is being done by not only so-called genxers...sportos with gaspowered drills and visions of how many bolts they can put on a climb are guilty. Likewise old schoolers (with a loss of adventure I guess) are continually placing bolts near cracks and gear placements in a quest for making new routes in order to speed up the need for new editions of guidebooks....it really is a sin I say. Especially since there truly is a plethora of rocks in the icicle (and don't forget the tumwater) just crying to be climbed but only need bolts and a quick brushing to remove all the kittyliter-like granite. The only downfall is they are at least an hour above the road...yet in other parts of the world hour and even two hour approaches to sport crags is common. I suppose leavenworth's steep and long (60-200') granite faces really aren't worth it. But remember that doesn't mean bolting cracks near the road is worth it....please all you drill mongrels keep your bolts away from the cracks and learn or relearn how to place cams and nuts.

the ethics around the world have definitely swayed towards the safety first mentality...whether it be due to gyms or the unslaught of discounted rotorhammer drills in tom dick and suzieq's hands remains debateable. The question asked ("Has the general consensus in the Icicle become that it is reasonable to place bolts next to natural gear placements?") definitely weighs heavily on my mind as well. Having floundered and flourished in the dirt and moss encrusted granodiorite crags of Ltown for the last ten years I have definitely always thought the local ethics were if there is a potential RP placement there needs to be NO bolt. As stated in Kramar's Second edition (1991-White) of Leavenworth Rock in the loal ethics section 'drilling a hole in a rock that has existed for eons carries a tremendous responsibility. It will never be the same. But, you can't toprope everything! Most folks who climb here know how to rig protection and use their route-finding abilities. It is unusual to find a bolt next to a reasonable RP placement. One must use restraint and careful consideration before altering our precious finite rocks forever.' In the Ratings section it mentions 'the great majority of the climbs included in this book are one-pitch affairs where the protection one needs should be apparent from the ground. However, it is advisable to carry a little bit of everything in the bottom of the pack.' In the newest edition (1996-colorphoto)the amount of words depecting the original local ethics and beliefs of bolting lessened to a few asteriked statements...including the statement 'the local climbing stance has always been "anything goes".' and 'New routes demand careful consideration. With endless acres of virgin rock available, it seems incredible that people will drill holes to fabricate a pointless 15-foot variation.' and 'Though many routes in the area are bolt-protected, It is common to follow a line of hangers only to discover you need a camming unit for that little slot invisible from below.' I am completely confused about why bolted cracks (horizontal and vertical) seems to becoming the new "acceptable" thing to do. I guess i can see when the guidebook author states the local climbing stance is "anything goes." However, this is entirely untrue. Myself and others still believe in the old traditional ways....bolts and cracks do not mingle very well...yet when that crack disappears or goes completely sideways and all you as the climbers wants to do is go up higher off the ground into the unknown towards that next crack or the summit, bolts become the only means to protect one from nerveracking face moves where natural gear isn't an option. Whatever the case climbing is dangerous and should always remain that way...otherwise everyone will want to do it and what then will become of access and enviromental impact. I am not trying to be selfish here...i just believe in the traditions of ascent....clean Free climbing...but no worries I won't pull your bolts off the rocks but my friends might. [ 06-13-2002, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

quote: Originally posted by specialed: E-Dog right after I got off the phone with you when you told me you got the poison ivy I looked down at my legs and sure enough all below the kneee is strange red blisters. Maybe its not poison ivy but a strange reaction to excessive exposure to 5.10 moss eh? Well I'm treating it with my own age-old remedy: consumption of malted alcohol beverages and inhaltation of canabis sativa. Works everytime yo. ithink it was acombo of the 510moss..dirt...ticks and bloody airy falls outa kittylittered invested cracks of might and an unfortunate encounter on the slippery firecharred sandy hills...aghhhh..

all solo and its waaaaay fast..

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: You're a prick, Harmon. Go blow yourself... yeah harmon stay off the ice in the icicle it may fall down on you on a sunny day...

quote: Originally posted by CAMAZONIA: True sign of a gaper is to bring your out of control pooch climbing Gaper wanker lame ass dog walking gumbys Did you come to climb or walk your friggin dog? I think I will bring my Mute to the crag and let him eat that biskit eaten ass waggin ankle bitein lap dog of yours listen assmunch I do not even own a dog but, I do sometimes take my friend's dogs climbing 'cause they have fun chasing chipmunks, goats, etc. The dogs never even have collars let alone leashes...that means they actually walk themselves unlike your freaky dog im sure...in fact they actually keep the critters from eating my stuff on the ground as I enjoy getting high off the ground. . besides who you calling gumby you dumbass.......

quote: Originally posted by telemarker: I was jogging up the Icicle the other day and noticed a tiered system that I later learned was memorial buttress. I'd be interested to know of some of the routes up higher, although I respect that it's still an "adventure area." Just curious about how the climbing was up higher, nothing specific, just generally... The climbing up there is pretty good...

Amber come to Leavenworth and go Climbing in the Enchantments with me

quote: Originally posted by Dru: [/QB] Where in Leavenworth could one smoke weed to the same effect?[/QB] in the Bar...no huts in ltown [ 05-23-2002, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

you complain about shit like people bringing dogs to the crags

quote: hey did you know that if you take dylan's tune RainyDay Women #12 & #35.... multiply 12by35, it equals 4:20...... Whooaa. Does 'ole bobby know something we don't??!! [ 05-21-2002, 01:32 PM: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: . Also, we scoped some routes on April Fool's Tower -- anyone of you ever climb that thing? The summit looks TINY and sharp.... summit is very tiny and super sharp...will cut your rope for sure, if your not careful...the view is sucky too...as for myself...sunday, bouldered in icicle due to extreme road fatigue (drove from bishop the day before) and cranked some of my favorite boulder problems at egg rock, fridge, and keep-out...at egg rock i had to clear away some cobwebs...those spiders are relentless...i wish theyd learn like the moss [ 05-13-2002, 08:19 PM: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ]

hey caviesarous...dios mio when did you hack thru the firewall and get back online...or did bill go on vacation... GOod your not drunk in the ditch or stuck in some hole of buttcrack town like me in Barstow...waiting for the sun to set in an A/c library to party till dawn redneck hippie style...ohh i cannot wait. Then northward to Bishop,lonepine,mobilat Leevining,sanora pass, castle crags...Has it stopped snowing yet in Warshington? later skaters

hey ray rachel=chick in New river gorge photo spread last year climbing mag?? if so,

quote: Originally posted by chris_w: To try and answer some questions. Erik- I leave the area nicer then when I got there. Old boy scout habits. But I can't be watching them all the time. Kevin P - We are carpooling from the camp grounds to minimize cars along the road. As for the areas close to the road. With as many students that we have it's hard to get everything done in a safe manner if it take 30 minutes to hike up a trail. I would rather have the students on the rock the extra 30 minutes instead of practicing their hiking skills. Szyjakowski - Plan on staying on the trails and have fun in Mexico Ray - Have fun in Canda and what about leaving the booty??!?