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Szyjakowski

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Everything posted by Szyjakowski

  1. sweet. looks like the wapass rock climbing season is finally here!! just in time as the central cascades are getting HOT!!
  2. I bet its quicker to walk off twice.
  3. OH yes the mysterious slide of I heard but didn't see it...SNCW is good for that.
  4. That is because it is standard to walk off. Rapping ususally happens only in retreat mid-route.
  5. expect snow in upper lake areas
  6. or dumbass boulders
  7. FWIW: DAMN fukin research studies on ICE is a bunch of hand waving to get you to buy more gear. whatever it takes to build a belay and get to the ground safely again is what it takes... Gosh I wish ice tools were still designed like hummingbirds, then less people would be out there trying to kill themselves.
  8. man, for having such an early road opening it still looks kinda snowy for rock scrambling...i wonder how much snow came down this latter part of spring?
  9. hasn't doorish climbed all the cracks on that side of the Mole?
  10. I believe that there are perhaps as many as two more short pitches after the 5.6 chimney. AlpinFox, correct me if I am wrong. I haven't actually done them. Somebody ought to come up with a name for it. It's like a big clam. The chimney is fun on lead, but less fun if you are following with a pack. there is one pitch after the chimney, which is IMHO part of champagne...hard to believe Fred (FA?) would bypass a chimney and go down. doubt he would remember though. SCW ridge traverse is sweet, would like to do it again someday.
  11. This RPM pitch starts to the far left on 2tree and follows a couple bolts to the chimney feature to the left side of the "bullit" feature before finally ending on ledges below 5.6 pedestal pitch of OS. Great pitch...needs more traffic but RPM has some reputation for being runout or something. could be the sweet knob tying pitches on the shield.
  12. oh wait...yeah those slings...COOL somewhat scary (flakes)variation to traverse pitch puts you at stepout on the pitch. A must do for anyone bored with standard way. Those slings make your gear "feel" Bomber!
  13. my friend fired PC of Hyperspace first try. He did not on CC...in fact he did not even lead it (tried)..He is a solid OW climber and says both grades are spot-on. Both climbs require different technique so one may feel harder if you are weak in that area....
  14. that shiz is probably for RPM.
  15. RD vs Outerspace...definitely R&D for most ascents. OS is nowhere near 5.10 CBS...don't inflate your ego. If anything it may be 5.9G for greasy. And Gary, as Mr natty says, rest up in the alcove and if you are creative you will discover there are other rests...If you think OS is steep for 5.9 then go climb Crack of Doom on Castle...Old Skewl 5.9.
  16. As said, just grab the two ends and hand over hand it to the middle ....easy and not that time consuming....besides middle marked ropes are AID!
  17. As everyone else says no go this time of year....and your pic of CBR (as nice as it looks) shows enough snow on the top and various pitches that it would suck despite there not being much.
  18. mark is such a geoslut...geek words and his topos look somewhat like stratcolumns.
  19. It was chopped cuz the bolts should not be there, it is a trad lead. A hard trad lead at that...one that I think received 3 repeats before the bolts were stupidly added.
  20. yer leaving vegas...whoaa... who's buying the dirt?
  21. ahh, did the dirt get in your eyes...booohooo..real climbing in the icicle aint so bad. just think you were probably in the top ten ascents of a stellar overly neglected line. as your last statement implies you liked it a lot....
  22. the dirtiest and coolest line on the wall. was the fixed gear still exposed or did the northern drainage re-fung it up? more people need to do this one.
  23. hey special where is my big green cam?
  24. right on glad to hear the dirt is so loveable.
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