tomtom

The Zipper, p2.

It really works!

The operative word is "tactical".

I don't think there is a ball nut that fits the range of a Z6.

I rated everything we climbed as PDF - Pretty Damn Fun.

pm on FF parka

The Z1-3 are great for aid. They can work in thin cracks instead of pins. You do have to be careful, though. I had placed the Z1 on the 4th pitch of Re-Animator in Yos and moved up on it. (Didn't bounce test it, cause it's so small.) While fumbling around for the next placement, I heard a bit of a ripping sound. Since I was still on the gear, I assumed it biner shift. After moving onto the next piece, a rivet, I looked back and noticed that the Z1 had shifted and I had been standing on only two lobes. Bomber, dude.

or maybe Kent. And it's not really granite.

Yes, there's a solid pinch between boulders at the base of the aid start. I believe a double length runner is all you need. I use 1" webbing.

Or p1 (aid start, not D-H) p2&3 p4&5 p6 Compared to p2, p3 goes pretty quickly. If you fix p3, however, think about protecting your rope where it crosses the edge of the roof on the way down. Another option is to haul the ledge and sleep under the roof at the top of p3. Stays dry in the rain.

Excellent route and excellent topo! A couple questions: 1. Can p1 be aided? or knocked down a grade using the technique a la France? 2. You don't list pins or hammered gear (except bolts). Should this be listed as C1 instead, to discourage folks from bringing the hammer?

Chemo is aid. Gretchen is one tough chick. She was still working up at the pass on the weekends as a ski instructor this winter during chemotherapy. One of the nicest people you would want to meet, too.

After having just climbed it, I still don't know where the first pitch goes. We started just left of the toe of the buttress and went straight up on moderate terrain. Then traversed left directly under the roof, down a bit, then continued traversing to the anchor. Took most of a 60m rope. It went, but there were a couple sparsely protected parts of the traverse.

Ya. Great day. Thanks.

I tried the approach this time last year. The road was easily drivable in a Lesbaru. Take the turnoff to the right at the top of the big hill. There is a little stick sign that says something like S - 25. As mentioned, they've added more logging roads, so the description is a little off in Alpine Select. Don't take the first left. (this road is shown in picture on pgs 70-71 of AS as the one parallel of the correct road). Then keep left at two forks and right at the next. After 4.2 km, stop at the wide spot in the road at the beginning of another clearcut. The logging road now continues from there. I have no clue how to reach the bivy site, though. We headed straight into the forest from there, but got caught in wet slide alder hell on a socked in day, so we bailed as we couldn't see anything. Rumor has it that there is a faint trail a couple hundred yards back down the road, but we didn't find it. Have fun.

Sorry to hear that you fell on your head.

Yes. The Mountaineer who fell on Yellowjacket died.

Whatever, Kurt.

Speaking of Index, why did all the Seattle TV stations have news trucks at the Index General Store on Memorial Day?

Beats living in the van down by the river.

Hey J, Where ya moving? Delaware?