dyno_merchant

i agree with all those who say no to bringing your dog to jtree. i go there all the time in the winter and at first brought my dog along alot. but it is a huge hastle to have your dog there and i got sick of hiding from rangers and leaving my poor dog on a leash and in the car. it's just not worth it-leave your dog at home. besides, i love my dog but sometimes it's nice to go somewhere and not see any dogs around especially at a place like jtree. by the way, the odds are very high now that you will get busted if you try to take you dog where your not supposed to or have them off the leash especially if you go out to gun smoke traverse area. one day i saw at least 3 or 4 separate groups get in trouble for having their dogs out at gunsmoke. leave the dog at home!

climbing rules! it doesn't matter where you live and climb but sometimes it's interesting to get a few opinions about different climbing towns and schools for conversation sake. I'm glad that you were able to get out and climb outside at larrabee that day. I climbed at a fun sandstone area near page, az. yesterday and that was fun too. snowed a little but the sun kept poking out to save us. ahh... climbing in the winter is fun.

quote: Originally posted by climberbro16: Anybody been down there and done some problems? Im headin down to Tucson Thursday-Tuesday. If so, any of you recomend any that arnt to hard? [ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: climberbro16 ] there is a bunch of new bouldering on mt. lemmon. i haven't bouldered there but you can check arizonaclimbing.com to see if they have any good info or talk to people at rocks and ropes climbing gym in tucson. theres also decent bouldering around cochise stronghold and at some granite area west of town (i forget the name). again check the web or the tucson gym for more info.

word!

quote: Originally posted by erik: CENTRAL WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY LOCATED IN ELLENSBURG IS ABOUT 40-50 THOUSAND TIMES BETTER THEN BHAM ANY CENTURY FROM NOW TILL THE END OF THE WORLD..... oops.. vantage 20 minutestieton 45-1hrlworth 1hrstuart range 1hr to trailheadsnoq pass 1hr bham rock is about as weak as it gets the only things good about bham is the coeds, the ski resort and squamish and canada owns sqaumish.... . the bellingham list of climbing areas blows eburg away. sure ellensburg has, let's count em, 3 climbing areas that aren't mountains and only one that's less than an hour. b'ham has tons of stuff close to it and you mean to tell me that you would trade sqamish at an hour and a half to have leavenworth and hour away!!!! and if you consider vangtage to be better than the local stuff around b'ham than your crazy. vantage is easily just as big of a choss heap as anything b'ham has to offer. if your arguement for vantage is more routes than your probably right except that you never know when the bolts are going to disapear and if a column is going to crush you and your belayer!!! get on the moss trip and join my vote for the rainy coast.

i love climbxmedia! i've been checking out that site for a couple years now. but i like stupid sit down starts, toping out 30 foot boulders and giving rumpolas also so i'm just a weirdo! for all you who want the scoop on the "latest sent problem/route" and "who chipped what and then filled it in" stuff like me, here's some other sites that are good. 8a.nu and newenglandbouldering.com. on the note of forums... this one is awesome. check out arizonaclimbing.com-it has a crappy forum unless you like to listen to 4 or 5 phoenix kids talk about this girl melissa and how much they think she is a slut.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: if you like larrabee (and i only went there once, it's so SMALL!) the nice thing about larrabee is that it's only 15 minutes from WWU. if your from B'ham you can get a good session in (on real rock) without wasting most of your day. i agree that it is limited but there is alot more sandstone peeking out on the surounding hillsides that is just waiting for someone to come along and find. some even is being developed as we speak. there's even a few topropes and a selection of great problems on seahome hill (right next to WWU campus!) for quick climbing. thinking of towns with universities in them...do you think there is a better town then b'ham to go to college in washington (thinking purely of closeness to rock)? b'ham has real rock bouldering/trad/sport 0-30 minutes out of town (along chuckanut dr.) and mt. erie and roserio park 45 minutes away. mt baker sport climbing 40 minutes away. a selection of "secret" areas being developed 30 minutes to an hour south and east of b'ham and seattle/vancouver crags an hour and a half away. not to mention the new climbing along hwy 20 that is about an hour away. oh yeah... then theres all the mountains close by!!! i could be all stupid like in my choice though...there's probably better college towns out there in the evergreen state for climbing. seattle? or something on the eastside. do these other towns have climbing as close to them as b'ham??? [ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by Crackhead: Good bouldering going on at Larrabee state park in Bellingham. ahh...larrabee state park. the bouldering version of the fisher towers in utah. not quite but still pretty crumbly. still, the bouldering is fun (unless a hold breaks and you get barnacles up your ass) and the view is spectacular! Larrabee is always good for a quick session in the winter. hope you had fun out there...can't wait to do some laps on some larrabee classics when i get back up to b'ham. what are your favorite problems or circuits? have you bouldered at the 45 degree wall at mud bay-that wall is rad when it's dry and the tide isn't nippin at your heels (it's the only good wall at mud bay, everything else is choss)

hey feature climbers... i think all gyms should have small features here and there but some gyms go overboard. if there's tons of features on a wall and you can climb it without holds at 5.10, 5.11 or even 5.12 or 5.13 don't you think that limits the wall. if you can climb a wall with only features then how long will it be before your bored with it and then the gym will need to retexure their walls again. why not just use holds. there are awesome screw on features and footholds that you can get now that can take the place of these "soon to be boring" features. by the way... i'm scared every time that eric enters a post. i feel like he's the cc.com bully.(or maybe i'm just a pussy!)

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I am the cc.com bully. Now shut up and bend over here comes the dyno Up walks the Gimp. Enough said....... [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Mr. caveman...i'll remember not to tell you what a rumpola is! hey erik (proper sp)... sorry about your name. tell your family i'm sorry too. i guess i had you mistaken for a real web bully type but now i know the truth. bring on the peace pipe.

quote: Originally posted by erik: if you dont change and clean the holds then what would paying for a gym be worth???? isnt that your job to clean and set routes???? i imagine teaching someone to belay is another responsibility, but seriously what is the job of a gym worker??? routesetting is only one part to making customers happy. you could have the best routes in the world but attract zero climbers if the people working there are assholes and don't know anything about climbing. "gym workers" are supposed to give the full experience. including...routesetting, beta and all around fun and supportive atmosphere. not to mention that climbing gyms could survive even if climbers never went into them. families and kids can easily make up for our cheap asses and they rarely need new routes. But who wants to run a gym like a day care, that would suck.

about texture... is it so important to have texture? maybe the routesetters aren't adding enough holds to their routes to give you foot options and intermediates thus making you wish you had features to use. although features can make the walls look cooler and give you more options, my opinion is that it would be better to have more creative setting with more holds and eliminate the confusion of all the features that (if used) can mess up the specific moves the route setter intended you to make. also... the more features a gym has the more limited the setting can be. routes can start to have the same "feel." the features will always be the same...boring. [ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: The dirty greasy holds are mostly found in the Redmond VWorld from my expereience they never move things around for long periods of time. I saw some routes 8 months old. I work at Vertical Relief Climbing Center in Flagstaff and we know how hard it is to clean holds and change routes but we try to make a big effort to do so. Our routes are never up for more than 3 to 3 1/2 months but we only have up to 50 routes and about 60 boulder problems (we clean holds before they go on a new route so our holds stay pretty clean also). how long do you think routes should stay up? another Q...which gyms have the best routesetting and routesetters? why?

which gym is your favorite in the northwest and why. im actually asking about gyms from seattle to vancouver (west of the crest) but are there others that are better?

quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: Has anybody done any bouldering out by Surprise Lake? I haven't lived up there for a while but I might know if I could remember where that damn Surprise Lake is! All this glaring sun in Flagstaff, Az. has dimmed my memory.

long time no see... I've been in bishop, ca. bouldering my brains out for the last four days and it was great. every time i visit there i love it more. great weather too (i got a good sunburn). just wanted to check in on this topic and see if anyone had any news on the bouldering front up there. Is there a bouldering guide to Washington in the works? Thanks for all the great info so far. i can't wait to get back to the mossy northwest!!!

is there one coming out?

heinouscling... if you didn't copy all that info from a training book than i'm impressed! All that info was awesome and it translates to all styles of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering...whatever). Every climber should read that and take note. The most important thing you touched on was that you watched other good climbers. If someone wants to get good fast they need to start climbing and hanging out with climbers better than them. IF you just hang out with climbers at your level all the time you may have a great time but they will struggle just like you on routes and your learning curve be slower. For years, when i first started climbing i climbed with people of my own ability. I might have done this because i didn't want my climbing partners to climb better than me and that allowed me to feel like i was a good climber, whatever. Later i decided to travel for 4 months and met strong climbers along the way. my whole goal was to improve. these climbers gave me insight on how they climb at their level and got me to try harder routes than i thought i could succeed on. the next thing i knew i was climbing a whole number grade harder (i jumped from 12 to solid 13 after about a year). sometimes you need to get a kick in the but and climbers at your level can't do it for you. you need the big guns!

quote: Originally posted by coyote: Can you let me know what I might want to consider in my training to get there? what kind of climbing do you want to get better at? trad, sport, bouldering, steep climbing, slabs, cracks...or everything?

quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: yo dyno! hook a brother up. where are these boulder fields you're talking about? any places climbable in the winter? most of the exploration I've done is frome Seattle to Squamish and west of the crest of the cascades. most of the stuff in canada i saw is now either developed or being developed. ex. sqamish, hope, skaha and stuff in and north of wistler. i'm sure theres tons more to find up there. in washington the developed or developing areas seem to be mt si, index (seems to me to have tons of potential), leavenworth, banks lake, minihaha (sp?), mt. erie (limited so far) and the sandstone around bellingham (larrabee and limited stuff at sehome hill and mud bay). other area that could be good or bad that you all have been talking about is roslyn (where exactly is it), rimrock lake and entiat. places that i know have potential are... marble mount area (some boulders have weird access while others are hard to find in forest, I haven't explored there as much as i'd like. areas in the hills just east of sedro woolley and mount vernon (i know of at least 4 separate low and high elevation boulder fields here. two of them have at least 50 boulders each. more sandstone and metamorphics along the oceanside hills around bellingham and anacortes. some potential between glacier and mt. baker darrington (boulder fields and boulders in the forest as for winter bouldering in wash and b.c...in bellingham we could boulder at larrabee and sehome alot but right now that area is limited to about 100 problems or so. mt erie is good in winter also but i don't know where the best problems are yet. you could maybe boulder around skaha area and the areas east of mountains in wash(LONGSHOT?)?

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: I'm curios as to why dogs get stuck screwing. Can anybody enlighten me please? (Yes, its a little off topic). -Heinous it's like a "colored" fellow placing his large "package" into a skinny little "cracker" type girls "slit". there just ain't alot o' room in there so once it's in it just stays there.

the watermelon works better than a potato

quote: Originally posted by jblakley: Ok who gave you the "secret" beta on Sweet Pain? OK ok so the crux involves a no hands rest made possible by a prick jam (hence the nudity), which allows a shakeout before you pull the roof. Hence the name "Sweet Pain". I'm unaware of this watermelon beta. Fill me in. Not literally of course Nature Boy! the watermelon is to be shoved up the ass after the prick jam as to distract the penis so that it will release (kind of like hosing down dogs if they get stuck together while screwing so they release). it's easier to drag a watermelon up a climb than a fire hose.

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Is that sort of like walking along the beach with a potato in your speedo? -Heinous yeah, one big muthafuckin potato!Oh, by the way i just put up a first ascent called "Playing Pocket Pool With a Potato" and graded it 5.16b but it's really only 5.11a (don't tell anyone about the 5.11 part)

quote: Originally posted by erik: here's my reply "good one dumb fuck, your incoherant nonsensical gibberish of a insult means nothing to me, i don't speak your language so you might want to return home and try it on someone else who might give a rat ass......or might even be insulted" have a good one! rumpola! is definitly gibberish but please don't take it as an insult! Rumpola! is more of a strange bonding thing like giving a high five or saying stupid things like whatsuuuuuuuup! Defn. rumpola-when first person bends over and acidentally exposes butt crack the second person stiffens hand like a board and presses stiff hand into buttock while yelling "rumpola"!