dyno_merchant

quote: Originally posted by jordop: Hey Dyno whats the weather like down there right now? Snow? yep it's snowing- i guess everyone is getting the wet stuff! we only have about an inch but it's been snowing off and on since saturday. when i was at bishop the weather was sketchy also.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: anybody else climb anything? Who climbed what? What climbed who? (the snow is starting to stick in Everett this morning) I spent the last ten days in bishop pebble pinching! Climbed at the buttermilks, happys and sads...life is tough! on the crack note...paradise lost at paradise forks in flagstaff, az is fucking rad!

quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: BTW...i am going bouldering at larabee tomorrow b/c its convient, warm, next to the salt water, girls flaunt there large breasts in the warm sun, sandstone rock over starfish and barnicles are rad...and I cant go REAL ROCK CLIMBING [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ] if your day at larabee isn't real rock climbing then i don't want to be a real rock climber! i'd much rather be warm, next to salt water, with girls flaunting their large breasts in the warm sun and with sandstone rock over starfish and barnicles!!! that sounds like a perfect climbing day!

quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: dru makes a good point. it all depends on the landing surface and surrounding areas. sure, if your new boulder problem/area is gonna result in the trampling of fragile alpine meadows that will take hundreds of years to recover, maybe you should just boulder somewhere else. however, it the landings/area are all gravel/dirt/rocks, fucking go for it. just pack yer shit out and keep it clean. peace out. i agree! You guys are on it! b'ham posse forever

quote: Originally posted by Dru: like on chuckanut drive? that would be a good name for a route with a #11 hex toss aid move. isn't chuckanut drive where laraina bobbitt lives?

no body seems to mind if bouldering happens in the mountain alpine meadows!?! sounds good! I guess it's open season on pristine mountain settings. Bring on the pads! Oh wait...I'd have to hike with my pad for and hour...never mind. I'll just go to larrabee and drink beer

what ever!

damb, bellingham is that good isn't it! i want to say bad stuff about it to keep people away but i can't. let the hordes come. by the way...casa que pasa has the best potato burritos

quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: I agree with cappellini...BOULDERING IS WHAT YOU DO WHEN YOU CANT GO "REAL CLIMBIN"and why in the world would you want to spend all that money driving to some boulderin destination just to climb some little rocksFOOLS Stay home and Drink are you scared to pull with the big boys? is that why you have to try to diss them? fuck it! stay home and drink

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I got a 1st ed. Dallas Kloke "Boulders and Outcrops" guide. me too...that thing is a piece of history, don't let it out of your sight! i think the grading system in that guide should be used everywhere. dallas is a genius!!! bellingham rocks!

...and the college chicks all have vagi infections! Everyone stay away from bellingham...

maybe we should say some bad things about bellingham! if we talk it up to much the secret will be out and everyone will move here and the subdivisions will continue!!! It rains, rains, rains, rains, rains, rains and rains in bellingham! everyone stay away!!!

todd, i grew up there and thought it to be cool. i'm in flagstaff, az. now (been here for about 5 years) but even after all the sunshine and awesome yearround climbing down here i still am going to move back up there in june. i think its a beautiful area...near seattle and vancouver b.c. close to the cascades and next to the ocean ect. ect... beware winter (unless you ski/snow board)

quote: Originally posted by todd: dynomerchant,"should people be bouldering there at all?" i guess i really dont see why not. i dont really like their presence - there is a lot of attitude and those damn crashpads are annoying when passing them coming down the trail from a climb. they are often rude to the tourists as well, acting as if the tourists are some sort of lower species that they just cant acknowledge, but making sure that the tourists know that they are "climbers". most wise climbers are outwardly nice to tourists, if for no other reason then to have the public on our side. i don't really care if their bouldering there either if they weren't tromping around off trail in fragile areas! I don't understand why it would seem o.k. for boulderers there to go off trail when it is posted that your not suposed to! it also sucks that they have been rude! i've been at bouldering, sport and trad areas where climbers are rude to passer bys and i dont understand why! i agree with you that we should be nice to everyone who comes across our path. it helps all climbers. maybe those climbers up at RMNP who are tromping around on fragile landscapes and acting stuck up should get a big fat rumpola! long live bham climbing

i agree. climbers need to think in the long term not just about what they can get away with now!

quote: Originally posted by todd: a lot of the areas in rmnp frequented by the bouldering crowd are not really backcountry - in the summer the huge parking lots are full by 8am and the tourists usually go farther in the "backcountry" then the boulderers. having spent the better part of 5 years there climbing (not bouldering), its funny how the boulderers just show up all the sudden. people have been bouldering at places like emerald lake and lake haiyaha for a while, but the park was never really a bouldering destination. then about a year or two ago it started getting more popular, then last year a lot of big name boulderers came through and sent some hard problems. they didnt really make that big a deal of it (i know because they were staying at my house) but as soon as it hit the mags, all of the sudden the park is THE place to boulder, and all the kids come out with their pads. theyll probably disappear as quickly as they appeared. bouldering destinations seem to go like that - first the secret spot, then at least known but not yet "destinations", then some strong people come and climb some hard problems that get into the mags, then the boulderers show up in throngs and it becomes a "cool" area, then a little while later people say, "what?! oh nobody really goes there anymore, but have you heard of THIS place yet?..." and the cycle goes on. when i went there i felt really unconfortable about bouldering, mostly because of the signs about staying on the main trail and the fact that the environment is so fragile. do you think that people should be bouldering there at all?

quote: Originally posted by hikerwa: I can see dynomuncher probably not being the climber that we'll see reaching the age of 80... i plan on reaching 80, but i'd be fine with 40 if I had 80 years worth of experiences packed into it. You should hike up your skirt, pull out the string and live a little!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: stopping climbing to clip disrupts the experience. i would add toproping to his "pure" list though. and of course the unpure climbing gets sent to the concentration camp... the dyno solution. if the concentration camps are called rifle or mt. charlston then send them there! there's room for everyone in this great world of climbing. please send me to the concentration camp of bishop

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: Okay, DM. I'll buy that - though you won't catch me doing much free-soloing beyond mid-5th! Stay safe out there... you wont find me pushing my physical limits soloing either! I guess my thinking works better on boulders (which is what you'll usually find me on) because you can better decide the risks (boulders aren't usually that high off the ground)! The bigger boulders (ex. the buttermilks) can get more exciting...you just have to learn where your limits are and down climb and jump off if you are about to get in over your head. Yehawwww!

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: Why this requirement?If you get up a climb clean on trad gear does it really lessen what you've done just because you protected yourself from injury/death in the process? I could understand if you were only arguing against climbs with bolts, but I don't understand why "pure climbing" only comes if you risk bad injury or death...That's just absurd. I understand what your saying and I'm not excited about serious injury or death but I think that there's something to be said for a little risk. The more equipment you use the less risk is involved (obviously not true if you are an A5 climber or have no idea how to use the equipment). I think the most pure form of movement on rock should be free of all these complexities and trinkets. Climbing would then be more simple. You could just walk up to a piece of rock, decide if the risk was to great or not, climb up it and then summit and walk or climb off. Obviously this form of climbing isn't for everyone and it isn't usually the form of climbing I choose. The point is that I think that it is the most pure form of movement over rock and the days that I do experience climbing in that fashion...those are some of my most memorable days. [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by chucK: DM, I find your statements puzzling. First you rail about how bad boulderers are for the surrounding environment and then in your next post you characterize restrictions on boulderers at Hueco as "rediculous". If you think boulderers suck so bad, why do you think restrictions upon them are ridiculous? I am a boulderer and the only reason it sounds like I'm railing on boulderers is because I try to stay realistic about the impacts we have on our environment. I think some impacts are o.k. considering all of the impacts on the world today. Although, I feel that some environments might better be left alone (ex. fragile alpine environments such as RMNP). The Hueco issue is very complex and I almost didn't write it on my post because it opens up such a big jar of controversy. basically, TEXAS SUCKS AS A STATE and if Hueco were in New Mexico or Arizona (or any other state)you wouldn't have seen any of those restrictions. Texas is all about restricting people from experiencing the environment. I've seen areas with tons more impact and in more sensitive areas with absolutely no restrictions and they are doing fine that way. [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: dyno could you please inform me as to the requirements to a pure form of climbing....and uninterrupted movement over a small piece of stone concentrating only on a single sequence of hard moves doesn't qualify as an answer.... My criteria for pure form of rock climbing is...1. end of climb must reach a summit2. free of rope or harness (fall takes you to the ground-not hanging on a rope)3. climbing a natural formation of rock (not in a gym) while trying to practice "no trace ethics" some bouldering meets this criteria and some doesn't. i prefer the bouldering that does! some mountaineering and traditional climbing meets this criteria also.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: how long does it take to hike in? cause i really cant see that pad people are actually gonna hike in an hour or two to boulder carrying all that foam. i wont walk more than 15 minutes to boulder, but i will boulder in basecamp while alpine climbing as long as im falling on my partners' thermarests and not my own one. RMNP boulders take about 30 minutes to an hour to get to depending on where you go. which is farther than most boulders normally hike. i guess that means that boulderers will reach farther into the back country than most people think. hopefully the pads wont go much further than that. i think that low impact bouldering like you've done on the thermarest is totally fine. i just worry that if tons of pads and people visit that same boulder then the impact would be much greater. if more and more boulders in alpine areas like yours get affected then the good old government will want to get involved because they will say "look at those boulderers, they are everywhere and impacting everything" and they may start imposing more rediculous restrictions like you see at hueco.

quote: Originally posted by erik: yeah look at the pic of jon lonh doing the pinch overhang...there is plants and rocks all about the base of it and then recently in one of the rags i saw a pic of some alternative kid with like 4 pads underneath him and there were no longer plants or rocks beneath it....what da faaa???? another reason organized bouldering needs to be stopped... hard issues...bouldering in general is the most destructive form of climbing-you can look at any area that has been around for a while to see the impacts to the ground. Part of that problem is because of lots of pads but it is also because of the shear numbers of people bouldering. i think that some areas can bounce back if people stoped climbing there. Ex. Sqamish boulders would overgrow pretty quickly if climbers stopped going there but in fragile areas like alpine meadows it could take 10 times as long to grow back. bouldering is here to stay-it's one of the most pure forms of climbing but it's sad that it has to be the most destructive.

I went to RMNP about a year ago to check out all of the "classic" and rad bouldering that I had been hearing about. Although the bouldering was in a beautiful setting and looked good I couldn't bring myself to lay down the pad and throw on the shoes. Why, might you ask? Heres the answer.. All the bouldering is in a very fragile alpine environment where there are signs everywhere telling you to stay on the main trail. It seems that the boulderers didn't think that the signs applied to them because there are rough climber trails weaving throughout the boulders and the landing zones have been beaten down complete with cutting down small limbs and bushes that are in the way. Now I've heard that they may have access issues there! I sure hope that their not surprised! I love bouldering but I also love the beauty of an unspoiled alpine setting. So I pose the question...should bouldering happen in these fragile environments or should it be restrained to more low elevation settings? I know that some alpine boulder fields could have bouldering if they are continuously rocky because you wouldn't impact the surounding meadows (in theory), or not? Let me know what you think?