dyno_merchant

quote: Originally posted by LUCKY: The untold wealth of bouldering in the North Bend area is starting to be discovered steep problems good rock with soft landings and a forest setting. I have been ask by a few friends to put together a small guide. The guide will be free thats right free and email friendly. You can post the problems here and I will have fun checking them out or you can email me at gibson@cco.net the detailed info or pictures of you problems. Pad People unite! I'll be psyched to see all the new problems down there! Let me know when I can get info...I've been going to Squamish and staying close to home in b'ham to get my bouldering fix. Can't wait to sample more new wash. areas!

quote: Originally posted by plexus: Knappyhead Lil' Rascal, I didn't say all of JH's routes were sandbagged, just one instance. Actually I thought his routes at the Pumphouse and Pee-Wee's Playhouse were right on. It was a couple of climbs at Oyster Dome I thought were off on their grades. So WTF is up with "your just weak. Do some pullups." quote?! Nice grammer too might I add. Until you meet somebody it is best advised to you to shut up and keep your opinions to yourself. And don't worry, I'll keep myself away from your "precious" Chuckanut shitstone relax...isn't climbing supposed to be fun! Come on up and I'll show you some rad new stuff and I won't sandbag you. Chuckanut rock is "shitstone" but it's all we got.

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Natural: I was wondering about that Mud Bay overhanging layback thing, right up the center of the wall. Do you know what that thing is rated? Please, no V grade, like I said I am not really a boulderer. Thanks, Probably 5.11 something (hard to transfer Vscale to 5th class and get exact grade) Get on it! By the way...I haven't been down there recently, is the wall dry? Bring a pad or two. dm

I'd like to check it out. Can you give me some info on how to get there?

Buckwheat...I know who you are....... Are you ready to rip it up in Squamish mon and tues? [ 08-03-2002, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by Off White: quote:Originally posted by dyno merchant: quote:Originally posted by plexus: Not died but just cowered away with my tail inbetween my legs and a carabiner left for a lower off as I received encouragement, "You can do that. IT doesn't look that hard." Only to find out halfway up that the friggin 5.11 is way beyond my range. Cheers what the hell is this??? Sounds like a trip report from one of your routes...My routes can't be that sandbag!?! Are they?

[ 08-03-2002, 11:19 PM: Message edited by: dyno merchant ]

quote: Originally posted by Buckwheat: I'll vouch for the Dyno Merchant. The bouldering around B'ham is better than you might think... Buckwheat is in on the secret...if you love to boulder then you should get the beta and check out the new stuff here...or you can keep going to Squamish and we can keep all these rad problems to ourselves...hmmmmm By the way...Buckwheat-have you checked out the new problems that have gone up in the last couple o months at Sehome Hill. For years I overlooked it but almost every single problem that has been cleaned this summer has been amazing/three star anywhere. Even some of the old classics are super good/way better than I remembered. I'm really excited about all the new stuff that is still to be done! Larrabee too...........

quote: Originally posted by plexus: Not died but just cowered away with my tail inbetween my legs and a carabiner left for a lower off as I received encouragement, "You can do that. IT doesn't look that hard." Only to find out halfway up that the friggin 5.11 is way beyond my range. Cheers what the hell is this???

quote: Originally posted by MtnHigh: Hey Dyno, Jason Henrie seams to ring a bell. You're the dude that put up some of the local shit around B'ham years back. I lived and climbed in B'ham in the early 90's. I think I have a copy of your guide book somewhere. Back for some more action? yeh, I put up those chossy routes and wrote the guidebook. has anyone died on one of my routes yet....Ha Ha (maybe thats not funny). thanks for supporting climbing around b'ham even if it is mossy and a bit chossy, but what isn't in washington??? I lived in flagstaff for a few years but missed water and the cascades so moved back. I've traded ropes for boulder pads these days and am having a blast putting up problems around washington and oh my god squamish is still as rad as it ever was (even if I just boulder at the base of the chief). man, the summers up here are the best!!!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: Yup. that's the Rev. Diamond. I was his roommate for about 6 months. interesting stay. He's the guy who once wanted to get lunch in Roslyn while climbing at Vantage with a guy named Cory! I was lying, he moved far away and the only thing he's been sending recently is email. I used to climb with him when I lived in B'ham the first time around. Matt is a hilarious guy and very wacky!!! He went to eastern washington to go to school!? Where is he now??? I haven't talked to him for a good couple years now. I used to know cory too. By the way, have we met? My name is Jason Henrie and I lived in Bellingham untill 5 years ago and then just moved back again a month ago. Washington rules!

For all you bouldering types... Larrabee State Park and Sehome Hill have some amazing new problems. Many of them are V5 to V9(theres a few projects that will go soon with the help of more strong climbers). People should definitely visit us in B'ham and check out these new developements!!! Ah, the sweet sandstone slopers... I knew there was a reason I moved back to B'ham from "the land of fire" Flagstaff, Arizona. It's time for pebble pinching!!!!!!!!!!

Smoots guide on climbingwashington.com is getting better by the day. Good to see some better info on the Leavenworth area hard stuff (great photos). I've only got 30 more days until I'm up there and can't wait to get on some of 'em. Keep the info coming, especially more photos!!!

quote: Originally posted by max: I think if you replace "hiking" with "climbing", what dynomerchant said seems resonable, and the above refutation falls short. Obviously visual inspection is an incomplete analysis, but many "climbing" areas (including squamish, leavenworth, vantage, owens, yos...) have recieved far greater impacts than anything I've seen at any of the bishop bouldering areas. And we've seen on this board scientific analysis of climbing's impact on crag ecosystems. Summary: from what I've seen, climbing impacts ("[removing] vegatation and [stomping] all over the plant life that resides at the base....with little consideration of the enviroemtn surronding it.") are just as great if not more than bouldering impacts. Also, I very much agree with "either way have fun and dont f$%k up the enviroment....."[/QB] I totally agree with Max and I also agree with "either way have fun and don't f$%k up the environment....." and I also agree with drinking beer and I also agree with.............

quote: Originally posted by erik: dyno, you are wrong to compare bouldering wihth hijking.....first of all the trails are alreadyt there and are managed(well suppossedly) by the deforrest service. the trails and they 'damage' that it took to create them has been done, and hopfully it was done with the idea of as little impact as possible. whereas your pad toting little buddies will trample anything to reach a boulder, they will remove vegatation and stomp all over the plant life that resides at the base....this is all new with little consideration of the enviroemtn surronding it. i know that the blm is studying boulder base impact in the bishop area. and from what i see on thier website the impact is serve....too bad you boulders didnt hypew this shit 10yrs ago when it could have been grandfathered in..... either way have fun and dont f$%k up the enviroment.....[/QB] your right, i shouldn't have compared it to hiking and bouldering does have a large impact on the surrounding areas. now to comment on other posts about hidden areas... my feelings on why hidden areas aren't always good (when it comes to bouldering)...one of the biggest reasons that bouldering has such a large impact is because people don't manage the areas well from the start (as apposed to trails made by the FS). SPEAKING FROM MY EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER HIDDEN AREAS I HAVE BEEN TO...first-people hide an area (especially if its awesome) and are all secretive. Then-other people start find out but there isn't any good information on parking, trails and special environmental impacts that should be avoided. these new people tromp all over the hill sides looking for the boulders and end up creating 10 times as much impact as if they had good information to start with. im not saying that every area someone climbs at needs a guide with grades and all that but the first people to develop a new bouldering area have (I think) a responsibility to at least tell a newcomer where to park, what trails to use and special environmental impacts that should be avoided if that person has found out about an area and wants to go there. instead i see most developers so selfish about their area that they continue to lie to people about locations of boulders and then the above tromping continues... then the area developers complain that all these "nimrods" are ruining the area because of all the trails they are adding and vegetation they are trampling and such. Blah Blah Blah Im getting sick of listening to myself rant on this issue...I see both sides...I guess for me it comes down to... IF YOU DON'T WANT PEOPLE TO GO TO YOUR SECRET LITTLE AREA MAYBE YOU SHOULDN'T GO THERE EITHER! AND IF YOU DO HAVE A SECRET AREA, FINE! BUT WELCOME NEW PEOPLE TO YOUR AREA IF THEY FIND IT AND GIVE THEM THE GOOD WORD ABOUT HOW THEY SHOULD TREAT THE AREA TO MINIMIZE IMPACT. DON'T BE ANOTHER ASSHOLE ABOUT IT-WE ALL HAVE RUN INTO ENOUGH OF THEM IN THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY! lets all be friends...yay!

Why is it such a big deal to produce a bouldering guide for areas in Washington? Why can't a guide be produced for the sole reason of helping people find areas that have awesome problems? Isn't that why we have hiking guidebooks around the world - so we can find and hike a spectacular trail? Why can't guides for bouldering be done in the same spirit? What's wrong with finding a great boulder or boulder problem and sharing it? Is finding one and sharing it any different than finding a great trail or route and sharing them? What gives...

quote: Originally posted by Dru:

quote: Originally posted by Dru: ???? Bouldering guides are lame anyways. You see a problem you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording bouldering first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'bouldering guide' should have is a name and a STAR RATING!!! for each problem Route guides are lame anyways. You see a route you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording route first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'route guide' should have is a name and a STAR RATING!!! for each route. (if it works for bouldering then it works for routes...why is one more worthy of a guide than another? The size of the rock your climbing? Where does it start and end...)

I just looked at the smoots "work in progress" bouldering guide on his web site. Wow!!! Boulderers unite and show the world that we aren't caught in the seventies!!! (check the guide on his site to see what I'm talking about) Please send him photos and info so that we can step into the year 2002!!!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: dm-Got it; check yours. thanks

Greg W...I sent you a PM.

I want to know too...please tell!please tell!please tell!

I haven't posted in a while and wanted to say hello and rumpola! Hows it going in the great northwest? Down here it's been a great winter...tons of climbing and perfect weather. The weather has been to good actually...the national forests in northern Arizona are going to be closed in a couple of weeks and stay closed until we get our summer thunder showers! That means the forests wont open until some time in July!!!!! If you have any plans to come down to Flagstaff call ahead to see whats up.

When I lived in Utah, I knew of a crag that was similar to the fabled Mill Creek...unknown to about everyone, no guide, few routes but great potential, occasionally a pic would hit the mags and I'd hold my breath hoping the caption didn't give it away. Basically a few hardcore from SLC were the only ones in the know beyond the five or six climbers in my town (of 300) which was as close to "local" for this crag as you get. I;ve seen at least five or six photos of this area in the mags always caption simply "southern Utah". I've told a total of 4 people about this place, 2 boulderers and 2 trad climbers, all good friends and partners. I doubt it would be an issue even if people knew where it was because it's remote, I'm not giving up the stash and it's bomber granite in the high desert. More of an issue is the fact that there is a rad boulder field at the base of the wall. Yes, as an American it's your land too, but so what, you go find it. been there.