cappellini

i am not as young as you may think, an i am still sore on wednesday.... the quickdraw, yes i saw it inadvertantly tumble by while i was belaying...i consider any lapse in style which leads to loss of equipment to be just that: a loss. therefore if you wish to retain it as booty, its obviously yours by my ethos...but, if youd like to give it back, i'll buy you a beer or an organic fruitjuice depending on your lifestyle...my number is in the book, cashmere.

so whats wrong with my gaiters? i was watching you wondering if you understood the gravity of the situation peter and i had gotten ourselves into: "they must me saying wow those guys are really slow, that dude is still standing that spot wetting himself

these guys are dicks..climb what you want, enjoy yourself, and stick with the ski boots if thats all you have...and by the way driving a long way to climb is a stupid waste of time, use your imagination and climb locally...when you become desparate you will find yourself falling into the driving trap, irregardless of how you feel about it now. most importantly, ignore all guidbooks and advice from sources like this place except for finding loctions of potential climbs.

white slabs direct is 5.9+r. i have done it in summer. probably in modern terms, which people have passively grown accustomed to over recent years, 5.10r. plastered whith thin frozen debris it felt about the same as when i climbed it high and dry, in a sportshirt. with the added fear associated with body weight tool placements instead of c4 rubber and a sportshirt. lastly: not as difficult as when rolf guided it last time. that said translate as you see fit.

there are formations between the owl and the blk pyr which resemble eagleheads. they are closer to blk pyr and fit the beckey description well. north face owl has been done

5.12? try 11-

thanks perk...its now clear that you climbed a gully and a rib between gullies not the prow of the central pilar as we did.

before a debate starts...i meant climb ow, stand on flake, place bolt high...freeclimb to summit if all goes well...otherwise stand on bolt, drill another bolt...freeclimb to summit.. i assume monkeys ladder went free, he sayd "5.10 and we summmited"...otherwise its a0, and needs to be freed....

i planned to do the same from atop the flake..that way theyre guarded by the ow...i hope thats where you put em....

i agree..there is no 5.12 on this route, i have free climbed all of it..

hmm...your dots don't show this i dont recall any big jugs when standing on the flake...i remember crimping and a fear of falling quite far...up and down up and down...down i want mommy

they don't make any sport tops in mens, mike....think ill start my own fasion line... oh yea, i have a pair of pants for ya (remember the ones i found near colchuck?)...you were right, theyre more your size, little boys xl...i thought theyd work for me if i rolled them up..but theyre just too small..

i have also climbed the east face, but not quite to the summit...how did you summit via the east face? i got to the top of the ow and was turned back by the 15' of unprotected face climbing atop the block

hey kids have to dream you know..its just part of becoming jaded

yea!!!...only we can talk s^&**t about kevin...ron however feels he can talk s@#$t about us...so ben why don't you fuck off ron...since obviously kevin doesn't let either of you f%^&*k him off anymore...and i'll just jerk off ron's crappy crackbolt jobs in the icicle when i find the time (or need hangers)....

nice...i would bet however briody has climbed that butress..he and others around here have climbed numerous "unreported routes" up there...i myself have climbed up there near your dots...nevertheless, nice place hugh?

stop wrecking this sport...as a beginner you still need to learn how to climb, which includes managing runouts at your ability level and placing gear accordingly...i learned how to climb too, but i did it the old fasion way...over time with respect for the grades....not the big mac and fries way...f%^&k your gym and your lame excuses...if you can't lead 5.7 with a little runout than you are not a 5.7 climber...irregardless of what you think don't be fooled..just because the clothing is cute doesn't mean climbing is for everyone... if you don't see gear within ten feet of those bolts you need to learn more about identifying gear placements

not sure about all the bolts you mention...ray saw some guys (sandahl and crew?) rapbolting on that face a couple years ago..and i also heard talk of a line by same party...hence the bolts...the only bolts (3) i've placed on prusik were on lead, standing in slings, dangling from crappy pins..none of which are at a belay...

saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts....end of story your arguments are hollow...crack bolting is a form of defilement analogous to rape...the rock is inocent and deserving of respect...heinous acts require a reaction no matter how inconvenient it may seem. here is a graffic analogy for your enlightenment...if someone rapes a child should everyone who wants to rape children continue to rape that child? i mean, after all the damage has been done, just keep raping that child, cuz after all some sick f%%$@k is gonna have fun...why bother punishing the perpetrator and attempting to heal the mind of the victim...clearly this is wrong.....eventually the sickness would spread from child to child, or as we've seen locally from crag to crag...until our culture has been reduced to a vile selfindulgence, not just a hedonistic pursuit. removing the defilement is the swiftest form of punishment we have for the perpetrators of crack bolting...prison and its associated abuses toward rapists would be more fitting, however we don't have that option... there is never a justification for bolting over gear..a runout by definition is scary but not life threatening, and a skilled leader can easily protect those pitches within reason..runout yes, life threatening no...not every climb should be chiseled down to the lowest common denominator...go back to the gym or develope your skills appropriately before venturing outside..there is more to climbing than monkey tricks.... "one day the rain's gonna come and wash away all this filth" taxi driver

this crag is actually an old traditional practice area. all of the irresponsible bolting was done overtop the existing lines....and actually, the "real" start would be lower down on the slabs, closer to the road, above the d.silly tr....the entire butress is climbed easily without any of the retro bolt garbage (in fact all bolts are quite close to excellent gear placements)...the descent is a simple walk off, making absolutely no need for the ridiculous convenience anchors which also appeared in recent years. this buttress has been raped by unscrupulous crack bolters and hippocrits and all of this garbage should be removed.

would be great to consolidate beta, i liked that place..someone get a better picture...i'll pencil in what dirty refered to "That C Shit", 5.10c1(d.cappellini,p.hurst,e.werhley,2004?)...we all know layton will gleefully cough up beta for he and rat...yoder et all still a f$%^&ing mystery...

the red line is wrong near the top, a little closer to the prow....no it is not rocket peak, rocket is a boulder to the east

the last pitch you climbed (to the top of the pilar) is part of the joust...my unfinished line (an old obsession from a stronger time), which climbs absolutely beutifull shit (its around the butt toe (lft) from the burgerstand) up to the pilar top below headwall, its 5.11C1 d.cappellini, b.stanton, 1998, to here... for reference joust starts right of lady godiva route in the pretty lfc and sweeps up and leftward to share a belay flake and a short bit with the lady godiva route on the second pitch, blast straight up through the giant roof and up a few more pitches to the pilar top.... if anyone is looking to try it, the joust has not been completed past the overhanging joust shaped offwidth on the upper headwall (5.10A1 from pilar top into the ow, d.cappellini, jamie somebody who made me bail cuz he was scared of the dark, 2000)...should have been finished that day...i did lower down from the summit to retrieve gear and tr'd from below the ow back to the summit, 5.11 ow, 5.10 above it. still looking to finish this line since i already invested a lot of time and some fixed gear, just need a worthy pulse...er, i mean partner.....

i'll weigh in since rat and matt have confused me, and i was there...three distinct butress pilars on the wall; left goes to a seperate lower summit tower, center which we climbed goes to the true summit, the right one looks good but peters out on an insignificant bump really low on the mt. so i'm still wondering..did matt climb the butress we climbed or not? sure looked as if someone had excavated a few pins and maybe a cam or two...the buttress offered many options so an intertwined previous ascent seemed likely...hard to say most importantly the bill and peg stark thing rings irony with our ascent....rolfs last pitch (an easily avoidable sharp arete between two grassy low angled gullies) we refered to as the "dirty peggy" pitch. with reference to the ever loving black lichen and how he pegged the contrivometer by sticking to the arete rather than simply wondering unroped up either gully. this rapidly devolved into a reference to the lovely peggy flemming and just how contrived figure skating is, like rolfs pitch...and than of course true to form we moved on to the subject of katarina witt...still blissing on that discussion... never the less for the record, our reference to the "dirty peggy" pitch has nothing to do with mrs. stark, although it seems her name leaked into our rotting minds but couldn't escape mutation. however the pantera pete pitch on the lower bong has everything to do with the camera happy dirty harry....

temps are fine in the am.....does anyone else live around here with a little weekday time off? 509 293 2177