IceIceBaby

quote: Originally posted by erik: neri, are you rich??? you spend more time trying to buy gear, and then buying gear, that i have a hard time believing you ever even get to use it?? i mean i know there is always the perfect one, but.........how much gear does one man need?? but who knows, cuz i am weak and fat like borbon..... Eric U again… Any way I need the opinion before I will buy since I would like to save my knees from thrashing... shit Im getting old...(I will ask ton of questions and opinions then I will decide whether to buy or not...Aiming to buy just once ) I don’t get out as much as I like Alpine climbing but the Ice was decent this season and the rock always good over here so this is my consolation prize I try to do something every weekend but sometime I only get one day …U see that’s why I want to move to the PNW just the job market there sucks [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

What the on earth l is that? I cant even tell what I must have for the "newly discover sport" What's next.... thigh master??? On second thought, I wouldn’t mind the model babe [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

quote: Originally posted by mikey: Isnt the raven 'glued' only to the shaft ? someonementioned the consequences if the came apart on a climb, and you were left without an axe head attached. i wonder how easy it is to self arrest with just a piece of straight metal in hand I think the same technology as the X15 and the Shrike had been apply to the head gluing except in the very early X15 prototype I haven’t heard of any of them pop out although anything could happened to everything

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Where you guys been? Do a search...we had a thread on Raven v. Air Tech about three weeks ago, lots of good info and such...click on this link for the thread All-around ice axe discussion Yes, I started it.I end up buying the raven as well (at the time I already owned the Grivel air tech racing) and so far I like them both for a different purpose Now, How about those Glacier boots any experience? [ 04-10-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

On the same token. I was eyeballing the La Sportiva Glacier is any one had any experience with them also it seems that they run big (I tried the Lhotse on assuming they the same last) is anyone experience that they taking half a size smaller or is it just me BTW I have both axes and I like them both but if I had to choose probably, I will go with the Raven due to durability

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Then again I cant afford one, so I just dig a cave and use a bivi. Way to go I like that but if u have small amount of snow u can do with the ID also my friend have the SD clip flashlight at 3.13lb, 32sq and 6sq vestibule its really light (also on your pocket $150) this tent rock. on one trip we woken to a foot and a half of snow and didn’t even realized it you just have to pitch it right condensation control is an art with this tent but its definitely could be done and in the rain u will stay bone dry b/c this tent never leak. it is the tightest tent I ever been in but for 2-3 days its bearable [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

what is comming down to is How often will you go out? If too often get a double wall (I have a great experience with TNF Mountain 25 althougt heavy But build like a brick house) for durability I also have the Bibler Eldorado two doors model which I really like for a fast and light ascents although mine is in excellent condition (8 years and going strong) I wouldn't try to push the envelope and subject the tent to constant use and abuse for this I have the TNF

What A Deal, Black Diamond/Beal 9.4 Dry for $115 after shipping I have got one just now

Holly Shit, Is that an essay or what… great info!!! Thanx

Eric, Just read my post[*]I said LIKE Via-Fratta and NOT for/on Via-Fratta [*] proper Knowledge of the traditional techniques is a given [*] There is no solo reliant on the ascenders since you back up with an tied 8 to the harness in predetermined intervals (but I thought that you knew it since this is the only way to tie-in on ascenders) Now, after all that hair splitting ……how will the ascender perform for seconding and fix line

quote: Originally posted by erik: well if you are running tr's in the alpine, you might just not want to be there.....try going to a small cliff and work on techique there first....the alpine is no place to tr and work on tr skillz......... and bringing a piece of gear like that to the alpine is a waste of weight......you want lighter stuff then way bring extra crap like that??? it's called a prussik, and that way you can use it for an auto black on the those rappells....remember everything must have atleast two functions for justfication of bringing it into the alpine......... be safe and enjoy.. Eric,What I meant is if you use the ascender as it connected to the rope. The rope at the top, is connected to an anchor(like in Via Fretta without the 5M intervals) not as practice Top Rope when the belayer next to you also I will carry an ascender in case Im going on a glacier any way b/c it facilitating crevasse rescue sure u can do with prussic but it will take twice longer and a lot more effort leaving you tired (not worth the weight saving of 5oz) [ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

How about in alpine environment like fix line ascent or as a mean of self belayed seconds while they tied to TR. anchor

Ushba ascenders,Are they really superior to the competition any experience? [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

For what it is worth the order arrived two days ago which make for a total shipping time of…….way too damn long

What will be the best single line +(6mm) rap line combo Im looking for the lightest single rope out there I heard that there is a 9.1 single line out there but Im not sure

Trango make the lightweight II I have them and they working very well even with gloves on they are 36 g $5.95 a piece 24kn and a little bigger (27mm gate opening) then the Nutrino with the same rope radios as the Nutrino (9mm) [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: I can imagine what the hard men from the fifties and sixties who were pioneering routes in wool gloves and nylon parkas reading this whiny boo-hoo crap. It probably took Vanilla Iceicewoosy longer to write the original post than to call customer service and get a new pair. By all means,Go ahead and climb with the equipment that u described with wool and what not….However when I pay for my gear with hard owned MY MONEY I will expect to buy quality I don't go the gear shop thinking to myself how can I spend my hard owned $$ on the shitest gear available (that is your mind set Figger Eight)By the way Figger Eight spineless little shit if only you had to put with a week in the Israeli army then we will see who is the woos BTWIs BD is one of the sponsors on this site b/c that is the only way I can explain your position [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: IS THAT WHAT HAPPEND??? DOUBT IT!!!! COME MAN USE SOME COMMON SENSE, IF YOU DONT HAVE SPARE GLOVES, THEN THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM AND IF YOU WERE USING THE DRY TOOL GLOVES IN -40 TEMPS, I AM SURE OYU WOULD HAVE A LOT OF OTHER PROBLEMS THEN YOUR GLOVES, LIKE GETTING OUT OF BED......SHEEIT...... LIKE I SAID BEFORE ~YAWN~ Eric,That was hypothetical situation But the question remainsBD makes the claims that the gear will work under these kinds of conditions I have been proven wrong under much milder conditions Where is the quality that has been advertised and if there were stricter controls, this would not happen

But why a product should it fail at the first place.If I am in the middle of a climb and my new gloves seams busted when the outside temperature is -40. The glove filled with snow that turn to water and got iced up and I don’t have a spare gloves because the spare gloves they are wet and iced. This cause me to lose fingers due to frostbite I don’t think that the customer service will give me a new hand with all fingers the best it can do is to replace the gloveThe reason I got the glove at the first place is for the reputation of the manufacture or at least what that they clime to deliver I want to buy gear where I don’t even have to know the customer service number B/c the gear works

quote: Originally posted by trask: Personally, I always get good customer service, from various different companys. My method: (Rule 1) Don't call them up and say, "Heh, asshole, your goddamn gloves are a piece of shit. I've worn them twice and they're coming apart. Fix the fuckers or talk to my attorney." ...this is guaranteed to get you totally shithouse service and a nasty attitude from the customer service rep. (Rule 2) Be very nice and cooperative with the customer service rep. Tell them about all of their product you own, and how happy you are with it. Tell them the item in question is failing for some reason and would they please help you out. Basically kiss ass and pump em' up. They will literally bend over backwards for you at that point. ...works for me!

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I figure you've gotta at least give customer service a couple of tries before you bash the whole company. I'm sure all those major manufacturers could make bomber stuff that would last 100 years, but it would all weigh a ton, cost a fortune, and have the dexterity of boxing gloves. That said, prices could be lower. Say what you will, I'm happy with my BD gear (cams, nuts, and ice tools). You wanna talk about a rep for bad customer service, let's talk OR (which is funny because the one time I sent something in they did well by me).WillstricklandCongratulations you are the first to actually understand what it is all about. To anyone else Just read in my post,Life expectations from gloves should be longer then two daysIt is not every product from BD, It is softgoods in particular (where the markup is the highest and there are no regulations)If you creating something new do not test it on your clients just to make production deadline If you can't improve on a product then don’t do it Customer service will not save you if a particular product is poor [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

quote: Originally posted by pindude: Okay, let's cut through the bullshit on this thread. If you're going to diss a manufacturer or store, you better be able to back it up with sound reasoning or facts (Icebaby, NOT). If you are going to say you have heard "horror stories" without giving evidence, you better be giving honest examples, rather than let it hang. pindude Is my personal experience is not enough….How the hell you can judge things if not to your experience, my case is not individual and there is some others that did not step forward b/c they just don’t want to make waves, which I could care less

To all of you' who bashing what I wrote Its is really amusing to see that you all following blindly the piper as I said in my post Build your shit right a the first place and you don’t have to have a great customers service Any experience is individual and anyone is entitle to their own opinion it is your choice to be part of the herd like u all or stand up and speak your mind so some improvement will take a place I stand behind every word I said/wrote and you have the option to agree or disagree with me so till you have a better thing to say you can kiss my

Black diamond, a company with reputation for making durable, simple, functional climbing gear, that continued the unfortunate original founder Yvon Chouinard of Chouinard Co' (we all know the story). Yvon Chouinard started the company with liturly blood, sweat, tears and LOVE and got caught up with legal loophole bullshit that forced him to sale, to a small ski company that promised to keep the legacy going.Black Diamond today:A big corporate that claim to be employers owned just to make nice with the public and having the best customer service in the market (I will touch this point later).I have bought lately the "Dry-Tools" gloves and I have paid full retail price $60 + Tax. I have used them twice, the gloves just busted at the seams, and all stitch line has frayed thread on them. To me it seems very strange since I did not expected to happen so quickly. I have looked for the label to see if I did something wrong, only to find that a small white label that it was tacked away in the middle of the glove. The label read in subscript letters MADE IN CHINA Just by reading this line I have gotten my answer Instantly. BD couldn't be farthest away from the founder's ideology BD will sale gear with compromised quality and poor control and labor. Anything to make a buck. Even if the have no clue of how to make or create it. This show through their resent brainwashing campaigns and the legacy of making the worst gloves in the industry. I see a huge and alarming quality drop in gear made by BD and I wonder where and when it will stop My believe is: If I make a product, it should be the best I can or not making it at allMy name is the most important asset that I can sale, that not even the best costumes service in the world could repair. What I mean by that is; If I make the product it always will be after extensive period of testing and modification base on that. Made from the best materials from the top craftsman's hands and under the most discriminating quality controllers personal.Otherwise, it is not worth my effort. Becous in the long run I will have to invest in the top of the line customer department to explain my actions and to cover my ass or deal with letters like this. I should have learned from my previous experience with BD gloves (Verglas) and just not get any softgoods made by BD but I was tricked by the marketing campaign and I promise not to be a third time fool To sum it up:The only thing that the people at BD care for is, to squeeze the consumer to what they have and letting the costume service deal with those who dear to speak. The brainwashing is done in such a massive way while they trying to hide the truth under the carpet. On the gloves, you see the BD name and the Schoeller fabric highlighted and embossed in the fabric in 18pt - 20pt fonts. But when you look to how well it is been put together then, u have to dig in the glove whist part and fish for a nail size label with subscript font that you liturly need a magnifying glass to read the content. Nevertheless, they still are charging us as if it is first quality and legitimately made goods.Words of advice do not buy anything that is Black diamond made until they will show an improvement of their gear Please read this line b/c It sum it all: All I am saying, is this unrealistic to ask for the quality to be consistent or every time we go to the shop I should expect a different quality? Is buying from BD also have to be a Russian roulette [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

I like the very subtle language